Fashion Cultures Revisited

"Fashion Cultures Revisited constitutes an important contribution to the ever-growing body of fashion and dress literature by providing a conceptually underpinned birds-eye view of the subject. Hopefully the editors will pay another visit to the culture of fashion in a decade, as it will not only be fascinating to see what shapes it will take, but also who will analyse these, taking into account the rising number of fashion scholars coming out of an education dedicated to the subject, rather than the many different disciplinary heads that have made the theorization of fashion what it is today, refl ected so well in the present anthology." - Renate Strauss, Royal College of Art

Stella Bruzzi is Professor of Film and Television Studies at the University of Warwick and Fellow of the British Academy. Her publications include Undressing Cinema: Clothing and Identity in the Movies (1997), New Documentary (2000 and 2006), Bringing Up Daddy: Fatherhood and Masculinity in Post-war Hollywood (2005) and Mens Cinema: Masculinity and Mise-en-scene in Hollywood (2013). She is currently writing Approximation: Documentary, History and the Staging of Reality, the culmination of a Leverhulme Major Research Fellowship due to be published by Routledge in 2015. Pamela Church Gibson is Reader in Cultural and Historical Studies at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. She is Principal Editor of the journal Film, Fashion and Consumption and has published widely on film, fashion and gender. Her publications include The Oxford Guide to Film Studies (1998), More Dirty Looks: Gender, Power, Pornography (2004) and Fashion and Celebrity Culture (2012). In 2012 she helped to found the European Popular Culture Association and was its first President. Her forthcoming project will examine the history of the fashion documentary.

Introduction Stella Bruzzi and Pamela Church Gibson Part 1: Shopping, Spaces and Globalisation Chapter 1. A New World Order? Fashion and its capitals in the 21st Century David Gilbert Chapter 2. Branding Brazilian Fashion: Global Visibility and Intercultural Perspectives Nick Rees-Roberts and Silvano Mendes Chapter 3. India and Fashions new Geography Clare Wilkinson-Weber Chapter 4. A New Fashion Capital: Shanghai Armida de la Garza and Peng Ding Chapter 5. Sydney Style: Camping it up in the Emerald City Sally Gray Part 2: Changing Imagery, Changing Media Chapter 6. Yesterdays Emblems and Tomorrows Commodities: the Return of the Repressed in Fashion Imagery Today Caroline Evans Chapter 7. Digital Fashion Film Gary Needham Chapter 8. Personal fashion blogs: Screens and mirrors in digital self-portraits Agnes Rocamora Chapter 9. Styling The Street Fashion Performance, Stardom And Neo-Dandyism In Street Style Blogs Monica Titton Chapter 10. Exhibition-making: A Conversation Christopher Breward and Judith Clark Part 3: Altered Landscapes, New Modes of Production Chapter 11. Fashion Photography in the Seventies Alistair ONeill Chapter 12. Escaping to reality: fashion photography in the 1990s Elliott Smedley Chapter 13. Fashioning indie: the consecration of a subculture and the emergence of "stylish" femininity Rachel Lifter Chapter 14. Capitalisms Favourite Child: The Production of Fashion Adam Briggs Chapter 15. Tailoring and tweed: mapping the spaces of slow fashion' Louise Crewe Part 4: Icons and their Legacies Chapter 16. The "fashion arts", Jean Michel Frank, Elsa Schiaparelli and the interwar aesthetic project Peter McNeil and Giorgio Riello Chapter 17. The Pink Suit Stella Bruzzi Chapter 18. Fab lesbianism and family values: costuming of lesbian identities in The L Word and The Kids are Alright Fiona Cox Chapter 19. Fashion as mythology: considering the legacy of Alexander McQueen Nathalie Khan Part 5: Contestation, Compliance, Feminisms Chapter 20. Fashion, Feminism and the Neo-Feminist Ideal: From Coco Chanel to Jennifer Lopez Hilary Radner and Natalie Smith Chapter 21. New Clothes, New Faces, New Bodies: Cosmetic Surgery and Fashion Meredith Jones Chapter 22. Female slenderness and the case of perverse compliant deception or why size matters Lorraine Gamman Chapter 23. Hijab stories: choice, politics, fashion Reina Lewis Chapter 24. Fashion, fears and ageing: contradictions and complexity across the media Pamela Church Gibson Part 6: Making Masculinities Chapter 25. Heroes and villains: when men wear makeup Janice Miller Chapter 26. The Italian Job: Football, Fashion and that Sarong Stella Bruzzi Chapter 27. Vampire Dandies: fashionable masculine identities and style in popular culture Vicki Karaminas Chapter 28. "Im saving the world, I need a decent shirt": masculinity and sexuality in the new Doctor Who Claire Jenkins Chapter 29. Suiting up and stripping off: The Male Makeover Lauren Thompson