The Book of Clothes of Matthaeus and Veit Konrad Schwarz of Augsburg
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Köp båda 2 för 994 krIts quite simply the most fascinating record of a [fashion] victim one could hope for... Never has the mould of form been reflected in the glass of fashion so entertainingly as in this scholarly work. * The Spectator * Long before the likes of Tavi Gevinson and Bryanboy made careers of taking fashion selfies, a German accountant was busy documenting his outfits: for 40 years in the 16th century, Matthaus Schwarz commissioned watercolour portraits to showcase his daily ensembles, leaving us with the most extraordinary record of Renaissance style, gathered together in his Trachtenbuch (literally, "book of clothes".) * The Independent * [Rublack and Hayward] have beautifully reassembled the complete series of 137 colour images ... [from Schwarz's] extraordinary book of illuminations. * Times Higher Education * The story of a life in clothes ... [Rublack and Hayward's] historical observations, especially on colour coding, are valuable keys to unlocking the period. * Times Literary Supplement * The First Book of Fashion brings together these two fascinating documents, beautifully reproduced with illuminating commentary, to a wider English-speaking readership, for the first time. University and museum libraries will of course buy this book, but the price and quality make this a worthwhile purchase for any student of Renaissance fashion and cultural history. * Costume * The popularity of YouTube haul videos, fashion vlogs, and shoefies is often derided as a sign of the times, if not a sign of the end of times But the impulse to catalogue, classify, and, ultimately, communicate ones fashion choices is nothing new ... The illuminated Klaidungsbchlein, or book of clothes, compiled by the Augsburg accountant Matthus Schwarz between 1520 and 1560 is a proto-Kardashian book of selfies In this fashion, he assembled 137 images of himself over 40 yearsa selfie record unmatched until the advent of photography it will reach a wider audience than Matthus and his son ever dreamed. And it may even prompt readers to reconsider Millennialswith their solipsism and pics-or-it-didnt-happen visual acuityas the harbingers of a second Renaissance The First Book of Fashion serves as a reminder that, like other forms of culture, fashion is a product of its time. -- Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell * The Atlantic * Whats remarkable about The First Book of Fashion is the contrast between the alien costumes and the contemporary attitude of their wearer. Just like in the fit pics of our own era, each illustration in Matthus book comes with a concise caption detailing what he was wearing and why, what his clothes were made of, and occasionally, how much they cost or the hand work involved. His honesty even extends to his own body: on pages 79 and 80, he includes two nudes, front and back. This was my proper figure from behind, he writes of himself at the age of 29 and half, from when I had become fat and round. * GQ * The editors [of this book] have achieved something rare: being both a scientifically sound and aesthetically enticing volume, it not only catches the interests of historians but also addresses manufacturing specialists of historical and contemporary clothing and in addition manages to appeal to a broader fashion-conscious public. * Zeitschrift fr Historische Forschung (Bloomsbury translation) * With its exquisite reproductions of the first (and second) book of fashion, this gorgeous book provides something for everyone: students and scholars of Renaissance and Reformation culture and society, dress historians, historical re-enacters, costume designers, and simply fans of fashion. In its images and commentary, we meet a man who chronicled his lifes passing through the clothes that he ordered, purchased, wore, and described in loving detail, and the son who both imitated and mocked him. Matthus Schwarz sought perfection, but knew it was elusive, in his clot
Ulinka Rublack is Professor of Early Modern European History at Cambridge University, UK, and author of Dressing Up: Cultural Identity in Renaissance Europe. Maria Hayward is Professor in Early Modern History at the University of Southampton, UK. Jenny Tiramani is the Principal of The School of Historical Dress in London, UK, and a costume designer for theatre and opera.
List of Illustrations Preface Jochen Luckhardt Introduction I: The First Book of Fashion Ulinka Rublack Introduction II: The Clothing of Matthus and Veit Schwarz Maria Hayward Editorial Notes The Book of Clothes with Commentaries Reconstructing a Schwarz Outfit Jenny Tiramani German Transcriptions Glossary Acknowledgements