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Morphodynamic Model for Predicting Beach Changes Based on Bagnold's Concept and Its Applications1479
The authors have developed models for predicting beach changes applicable to various problems on real coasts. One of them is the contour-line-change model to predict long-term beach changes caused by the imbalance in longshore sand transport, which is a kind of N-line model. Because the calculation of the nearshore current is not needed in this model, and the computational load is small, it has an advantage in the prediction of long-term topographic changes on an extensive coast. However, the handling of boundary conditions becomes difficult when offshore coastal structures are constructed in a complicated manner, and in this regard the so-called 3D model has an advantage. Taking this point into account, the authors developed a morphodynamic model (BG model) by applying the concept of the equilibrium slope and the energetics approach, in which depth changes on 2D horizontal grids are calculated.
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Beaches in Japan have been eroding since the 1970s because of artificial land alterations and unsustainable coastal development. Almost all causes of the beach erosion in Japan are due to anthropogenic factors - as a result of human activity. This...