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A New York Times best art book of 2022Traces the history of lace in fashion from its sixteenth-century origins to the present Threads of Power: Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen offers a look at one of the world’s finest collections of historical lace. It traces the development of European lace from its emergence in the sixteenth century to the present, elucidating its important role in fashion. The book explores the longstanding connections between lace and status, addressing styles in lace worn at royal courts, including Habsburg Spain and Bourbon France, as well as lace worn by the elite ruling classes and Indigenous peoples in the Spanish Americas. Featuring new research, the publication covers a range of topics related to lace production, lace in fashion and portraiture, lace revivals, the mechanization of the lace industries in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, and contemporary innovations in lace. With a focus on lace techniques, women lace makers, and lace as a signifier of wealth and power, this richly illustrated book includes wide-ranging contributions by curators and experts from major museums and academic institutions. Distributed for Bard Graduate Center Exhibition Schedule: Bard Graduate Center, New York(September 16, 2022–January 1, 2023)
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An engaging exploration of fashion in silent film that uncovers the innovation, artistry, and entrepreneurship behind Hollywood costume designIn the first decades of the twentieth century, enterprising designers recognized the importance of dress as a powerful tool for expression within the new silent medium of film. As the definitive exploration of fashion and costume in early Hollywood, Goddesses in the Machine reveals an untold story that begins in a period when actors wore their own clothes on-screen and concludes with the birth of the professional movie costume designer. Although most American silent films have been lost and costumes from the era rarely survive, with new scholarship and compelling archival materials, this publication brings to light a dazzling range of cinematic innovations and reconstructs a nearly vanished world.Featuring pioneers of film like Billie Burke, Irene Castle, and Valeska Suratt and of design like Lucile, Madame Frances, and Clare West, this book highlights the actors and designers—many of whom were women—whose work established a blueprint for modern movie glamour. It reconstructs their legacies through garments, accessories, film stills, sketches, and printed ephemera. Essays by leading fashion historians, film scholars, curators, and Hollywood costume designers examine a variety of ensembles worn on film, from dance dresses engineered for movement to gender-bending silhouettes that challenged social norms. Together, they trace the political, commercial, and social contexts behind fashion on the silver screen.Distributed for Bard Graduate CenterExhibition Schedule:Bard Graduate Center, New York(September 18, 2026–January 3, 2027)