Francesca Granata – författare

This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, a growing field that has been too long overlooked. Fashion Criticism aims to redress the balance, claiming a place for writing on fashion alongside other more well-established areas of criticism.Exploring the history of fashion criticism in the English language, this essential work takes readers from the writing published in avant-garde modernist magazines at the beginning of the twentieth century to the fashion criticism of Robin Givhan—the first fashion critic to win a Pulitzer Prize—and of Judith Thurman, a National Book Award winner. It covers the shift in newspapers from the so-called “women’s pages” to the contemporary style sections, while unearthing the work of cultural critics and writers on fashion including Susan Sontag and Eve Babitz (Vogue), Bebe Moore Campbell (Ebony), Angela Carter (New Statesman) and Hilton Als (New Yorker).Examining the gender dynamics of the field and its historical association with the feminine, Fashion Criticism demonstrates how fashion has gained ground as a subject of critical analysis, capitalizing on the centrality of dress and clothing in an increasingly visual and digital world. The book argues that fashion criticism occupied a central role in negotiating shifting gender roles as well as shifting understandings of race.Bringing together two centuries of previously uncollected articles and writings, from Oscar Wilde’s editorials in The Woman’s World to the ground-breaking fashion journalism of the 1980s and today’s proliferation of fashion bloggers, it will be an essential resource for students of fashion studies, media and journalism.

This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, a growing field that has been too long overlooked. Fashion Criticism aims to redress the balance, claiming a place for writing on fashion alongside other more well-established areas of criticism.Exploring the history of fashion criticism in the English language, this essential work takes readers from the writing published in avant-garde modernist magazines at the beginning of the twentieth century to the fashion criticism of Robin Givhan—the first fashion critic to win a Pulitzer Prize—and of Judith Thurman, a National Book Award winner. It covers the shift in newspapers from the so-called “women’s pages” to the contemporary style sections, while unearthing the work of cultural critics and writers on fashion including Susan Sontag and Eve Babitz (Vogue), Bebe Moore Campbell (Ebony), Angela Carter (New Statesman) and Hilton Als (New Yorker).Examining the gender dynamics of the field and its historical association with the feminine, Fashion Criticism demonstrates how fashion has gained ground as a subject of critical analysis, capitalizing on the centrality of dress and clothing in an increasingly visual and digital world. The book argues that fashion criticism occupied a central role in negotiating shifting gender roles as well as shifting understandings of race.Bringing together two centuries of previously uncollected articles and writings, from Oscar Wilde’s editorials in The Woman’s World to the ground-breaking fashion journalism of the 1980s and today’s proliferation of fashion bloggers, it will be an essential resource for students of fashion studies, media and journalism.

Shortlisted for the Millia Davenport Publication Award.Experimental Fashion traces the proliferation of the grotesque and carnivalesque within contemporary fashion and the close relation between fashion and performance art, from Lady Gaga's raw meat dress to Leigh Bowery's performance style. The book examines the designers and performance artists at the turn of the 21st century whose work challenges established codes of what represents the fashionable body. These innovative people, the book argues, make their challenges through dynamic strategies of parody, humour and inversion. It explores the experimental work of modern designers such as Georgina Godley, Bernhard Willhelm, Rei Kawakubo and fashion designer, performance artist, and club figure Leigh Bowery. It also discusses the increased centrality of experimental fashion through the pop phenomenon, Lady Gaga.

Shortlisted for the Millia Davenport Publication AwardExperimental Fashion traces the proliferation of the grotesque and carnivalesque within contemporary fashion and the close relation between fashion and performance art, from Lady Gaga's raw meat dress to Leigh Bowery's performance style. The book examines the designers and performance artists at the turn of the twenty-first century whose work challenges established codes of what represents the fashionable body. These innovative people, the book argues, make their challenges through dynamic strategies of parody, humour and inversion. It explores the experimental work of modern designers such as Georgina Godley, Bernhard Willhelm, Rei Kawakubo and fashion designer, performance artist, and club figure Leigh Bowery. It also discusses the increased centrality of experimental fashion through the pop phenomenon, Lady Gaga.

Fashion Projects: 15 Years of Fashion in Dialogue anthologizes the New York-based journal Fashion Projects. The book is an index of a particular time within the fashion studies landscape and the attendant fields of fashion writing, fashion curation and critical fashion practice during which the field witnessed a meteoric rise.The long-running non-profit journal Fashion Projects was described by The Paris Review as ‘a journal devoted to critical discourse in fashion’. Fashion Projects was founded in New York in 2005 as a zine. It gradually morphed into a larger journal straddling the academic and general interest worlds, with international distribution and an ardent readership. It served as a platform to highlight the importance of fashion within current critical discourses through longform interviews with a range of curators, critics, artists and designers. This book collects together the best articles from the journal, most issues of which are now unavailable.From exploring the rise of digital fashion media with Penny Martin (the founding editor-in-chief of SHOWstudio) to the continued importance of connoisseurship with Harold Koda (former curator-in-chief of the Met’s Costume Institute), the anthology records the increasing centrality of fashion to contemporary critical discourse.

Fashion Projects: 15 Years of Fashion in Dialogue anthologizes the New York-based journal Fashion Projects. The book is an index of a particular time within the fashion studies landscape and the attendant fields of fashion writing, fashion curation and critical fashion practice during which the field witnessed a meteoric rise.The long-running non-profit journal Fashion Projects was described by The Paris Review as ‘a journal devoted to critical discourse in fashion’. Fashion Projects was founded in New York in 2005 as a zine. It gradually morphed into a larger journal straddling the academic and general interest worlds, with international distribution and an ardent readership. It served as a platform to highlight the importance of fashion within current critical discourses through longform interviews with a range of curators, critics, artists and designers. This book collects together the best articles from the journal, most issues of which are now unavailable.From exploring the rise of digital fashion media with Penny Martin (the founding editor-in-chief of SHOWstudio) to the continued importance of connoisseurship with Harold Koda (former curator-in-chief of the Met’s Costume Institute), the anthology records the increasing centrality of fashion to contemporary critical discourse.