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“I want my clothes to make you smile!”—Patrick KellyPatrick Kelly (1954–1990) was known for his bold, bright, and joyful fashion creations that resonated in the streets and nightclubs and on the runways of New York, Paris, and beyond. The first American and the first Black designer to be admitted to the governing body of the French fashion industry, Kelly boasted celebrity couture clients including Madonna, Cicely Tyson, and Gloria Steinem. His designs are distinguished by a combination of playful aesthetics and a willingness to brazenly foreground race and heritage and push cultural boundaries, including racial tropes like golliwogs, or Black baby dolls. Generously illustrated with hundreds of images of runway photography, garments on mannequins, and never-before-published archival materials, this book is an unprecedented exploration of Kelly’s influential career, which was tragically cut short by complications from AIDS. More than 80 of Kelly’s most beloved works are featured alongside thoughtful essays focusing on his work in relationship to French fashion, Queer identity, Black identity, and his exuberant runway shows. Also featured is a detailed timeline decorated with archival photographs and drawings, making this volume the definitive resource on Kelly’s life and work.Published in association with the Fine Arts Museums of San FranciscoExhibition Schedule:de Young, Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco(October 23, 2021–April 24, 2022)Peabody Essex Museum, Salem, MA(June 25–November 6, 2022)
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Kommande
From the streets of Tunis to the Paris catwalks, this volume traces the evolution of an artist-designer who combined anatomical precision with sensual grace. Renowned for uncompromising standards and independence, he built a career defined by meticulous craftsmanship, daring innovation, and timeless beauty. His formative training in sculpture enabled him to shape fabric as if it were clay, producing garments that accentuated the human form. His work gave early prominence to a generation of models who would become fashion icons, including Naomi Campbell, Farida Khelfa, Yasmin Le Bon, Tatjana Patitz, Stephanie Seymour, and Christy Turlington. Beyond the runway, he cultivated a rich creative community, collaborating with leading figures across art and culture from photographers Arthur Elgort and Peter Lindbergh to architects Jean Nouvel, Luigi Serafini, and Richard Wentworth, as well as designer Shiro Kuramata. The book highlights his engagement with fashion history through his private collection, among the most significant in the world. Featuring masterworks by Balenciaga, Chanel, Vionnet, and other great couturiers, these historic garments are presented in dialogue with his own designs, revealing the seamless conversation between past and present that fueled his creative process.