Stanislaw R. Massel – författare

The atmosphere and the ocean form a coupled system which exchanges heat, momentum and water at the air–sea interface. The interface is dynamic and masses and energy are continually transferred across the air–sea interface. The energy ?ow from the atmosphere to the ocean generates an aerodynamically rough sea surface. If the energy ?ow is su?ciently intense, at some points the surface waves will lose their stability and eventually break. Breaking is a very localized and non-stationary phenomenon that is a source of vorticity and turbulence. Dissipated energy becomes available for mixing the water layers and for whitecapping of various scales. Whitecapping is a strongly nonlinear process, which involves instability of the surface waves with space and time scales several orders of magnitude smaller than those associated with gravity wave motion. Whitecaps are usually formed at or near the crests of the larger waves and occur in groups with successive crests breaking downwind of one another. Wave breaking is the dominant generator of the ‘primary’ marine aerosol (sea salt) and it is a major factor in the air–sea exchange of gases (including carbon dioxide). Most of the aerosol generated from natural waters is in the form of jet and ?lm drops from the bursting of air bubbles (Monahan and Van Patten, 1989). The enriched aerosols associated with the ejected droplets are very - portant in maintaining a source of salt-laden cloud condensation nuclei as well asinterfacial?uxesoftraceconstituents,includingbacteria,viruses,heavym- als, radioactivity and organic material (Kerman, 1986).

The atmosphere and the ocean form a coupled system which exchanges heat, momentum and water at the air–sea interface. The interface is dynamic and masses and energy are continually transferred across the air–sea interface. The energy ?ow from the atmosphere to the ocean generates an aerodynamically rough sea surface. If the energy ?ow is su?ciently intense, at some points the surface waves will lose their stability and eventually break. Breaking is a very localized and non-stationary phenomenon that is a source of vorticity and turbulence. Dissipated energy becomes available for mixing the water layers and for whitecapping of various scales. Whitecapping is a strongly nonlinear process, which involves instability of the surface waves with space and time scales several orders of magnitude smaller than those associated with gravity wave motion. Whitecaps are usually formed at or near the crests of the larger waves and occur in groups with successive crests breaking downwind of one another. Wave breaking is the dominant generator of the ‘primary’ marine aerosol (sea salt) and it is a major factor in the air–sea exchange of gases (including carbon dioxide). Most of the aerosol generated from natural waters is in the form of jet and ?lm drops from the bursting of air bubbles (Monahan and Van Patten, 1989). The enriched aerosols associated with the ejected droplets are very - portant in maintaining a source of salt-laden cloud condensation nuclei as well asinterfacial?uxesoftraceconstituents,includingbacteria,viruses,heavym- als, radioactivity and organic material (Kerman, 1986).

The atmosphere and the ocean form a coupled system which exchanges heat, momentum and water at the air–sea interface. The interface is dynamic and masses and energy are continually transferred across the air–sea interface. The energy ?ow from the atmosphere to the ocean generates an aerodynamically rough sea surface. If the energy ?ow is su?ciently intense, at some points the surface waves will lose their stability and eventually break. Breaking is a very localized and non-stationary phenomenon that is a source of vorticity and turbulence. Dissipated energy becomes available for mixing the water layers and for whitecapping of various scales. Whitecapping is a strongly nonlinear process, which involves instability of the surface waves with space and time scales several orders of magnitude smaller than those associated with gravity wave motion. Whitecaps are usually formed at or near the crests of the larger waves and occur in groups with successive crests breaking downwind of one another. Wave breaking is the dominant generator of the ‘primary’ marine aerosol (sea salt) and it is a major factor in the air–sea exchange of gases (including carbon dioxide). Most of the aerosol generated from natural waters is in the form of jet and ?lm drops from the bursting of air bubbles (Monahan and Van Patten, 1989). The enriched aerosols associated with the ejected droplets are very - portant in maintaining a source of salt-laden cloud condensation nuclei as well asinterfacial?uxesoftraceconstituents,includingbacteria,viruses,heavym- als, radioactivity and organic material (Kerman, 1986).

This book contains a comprehensive study of the internal ocean waves, which play a very important role in ocean physics providing mechanisms for ocean water mixing and circulation, as well as the transportation of gases, nutrients, and a very large number of marine organisms in the ocean body.In contrast to surface waves, the literature on internal waves is not so numerous, mainly due to the difficulties in experimental data collection and in the mathematical description of internal wave propagation. In this book, the basic mathematical principles, a physical description of the observed phenomena, and practical theoretical methods of determination of wave parameters as well as the original method of observation using moving sensors are presented. Special attention is paid to internal wave propagation over changing bottom topographies in shallow seas such as the Baltic Sea.The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended bibliographies, a subject index, and an author index.

This book contains a comprehensive study of the internal ocean waves, which play a very important role in ocean physics providing mechanisms for ocean water mixing and circulation, as well as the transportation of gases, nutrients, and a very large number of marine organisms in the ocean body.In contrast to surface waves, the literature on internal waves is not so numerous, mainly due to the difficulties in experimental data collection and in the mathematical description of internal wave propagation. In this book, the basic mathematical principles, a physical description of the observed phenomena, and practical theoretical methods of determination of wave parameters as well as the original method of observation using moving sensors are presented. Special attention is paid to internal wave propagation over changing bottom topographies in shallow seas such as the Baltic Sea.The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended bibliographies, a subject index, and an author index.

This book contains a comprehensive study of the internal ocean waves, which play a very important role in ocean physics providing mechanisms for ocean water mixing and circulation, as well as the transportation of gases, nutrients, and a very large number of marine organisms in the ocean body.In contrast to surface waves, the literature on internal waves is not so numerous, mainly due to the difficulties in experimental data collection and in the mathematical description of internal wave propagation. In this book, the basic mathematical principles, a physical description of the observed phenomena, and practical theoretical methods of determination of wave parameters as well as the original method of observation using moving sensors are presented. Special attention is paid to internal wave propagation over changing bottom topographies in shallow seas such as the Baltic Sea.The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended bibliographies, a subject index, and an author index.

The future quality of life on Earth fundamentally depends on trends in world climate. The oceans playa dominant role in regulating global climate by help­ ing to control greenhouse gases, global heat transfer and weather patterns. If we also consider the energy and other resources oceans offer, their essential importance to human existence become obvious. Ocean waters are in endless motions. Scales of these motions vary from micro-turbulence through to surface and internal waves, tides, and global currents of planetary dimensions. How­ ever, in each case the water motion satisfies the fundamental fluid mechanics and geophysical fluid mechanics principles. Oceans are not empty, but support a large variety of organisms and plants. Many of the basic attributes of life of these creatures raise such questions as: why are the ocean''s living resources distributed as they are?; how can cyclical changes overthrow the system?; why do organisms have a particular size and shape?; how do they move and reproduce?; how do they capture food and many others. In the majority of situations, biological processes appear to be strongly influ­ enced by the physics, while the physical processes are largely independent of the biology. However, when we consider a time scale of thousands years, the feedback from biology to physics is not so simple. The present composition of the Earth''s atmosphere and the present average temperature at the surface of the Earth have been strongly influenced by living organisms.

The future quality of life on Earth fundamentally depends on trends in world climate. The oceans playa dominant role in regulating global climate by help­ ing to control greenhouse gases, global heat transfer and weather patterns. If we also consider the energy and other resources oceans offer, their essential importance to human existence become obvious. Ocean waters are in endless motions. Scales of these motions vary from micro-turbulence through to surface and internal waves, tides, and global currents of planetary dimensions. How­ ever, in each case the water motion satisfies the fundamental fluid mechanics and geophysical fluid mechanics principles. Oceans are not empty, but support a large variety of organisms and plants. Many of the basic attributes of life of these creatures raise such questions as: why are the ocean's living resources distributed as they are?; how can cyclical changes overthrow the system?; why do organisms have a particular size and shape?; how do they move and reproduce?; how do they capture food and many others. In the majority of situations, biological processes appear to be strongly influ­ enced by the physics, while the physical processes are largely independent of the biology. However, when we consider a time scale of thousands years, the feedback from biology to physics is not so simple. The present composition of the Earth's atmosphere and the present average temperature at the surface of the Earth have been strongly influenced by living organisms.

New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests.In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index.

New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests.In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index.