Stanislaw R. Massel – författare

The atmosphere and the ocean form a coupled system which exchanges heat, momentum and water at the air–sea interface. The interface is dynamic and masses and energy are continually transferred across the air–sea interface. The energy ?ow from the atmosphere to the ocean generates an aerodynamically rough sea surface. If the energy ?ow is su?ciently intense, at some points the surface waves will lose their stability and eventually break. Breaking is a very localized and non-stationary phenomenon that is a source of vorticity and turbulence. Dissipated energy becomes available for mixing the water layers and for whitecapping of various scales. Whitecapping is a strongly nonlinear process, which involves instability of the surface waves with space and time scales several orders of magnitude smaller than those associated with gravity wave motion. Whitecaps are usually formed at or near the crests of the larger waves and occur in groups with successive crests breaking downwind of one another. Wave breaking is the dominant generator of the ‘primary’ marine aerosol (sea salt) and it is a major factor in the air–sea exchange of gases (including carbon dioxide). Most of the aerosol generated from natural waters is in the form of jet and ?lm drops from the bursting of air bubbles (Monahan and Van Patten, 1989). The enriched aerosols associated with the ejected droplets are very - portant in maintaining a source of salt-laden cloud condensation nuclei as well asinterfacial?uxesoftraceconstituents,includingbacteria,viruses,heavym- als, radioactivity and organic material (Kerman, 1986).

The atmosphere and the ocean form a coupled system which exchanges heat, momentum and water at the air–sea interface. The interface is dynamic and masses and energy are continually transferred across the air–sea interface. The energy ?ow from the atmosphere to the ocean generates an aerodynamically rough sea surface. If the energy ?ow is su?ciently intense, at some points the surface waves will lose their stability and eventually break. Breaking is a very localized and non-stationary phenomenon that is a source of vorticity and turbulence. Dissipated energy becomes available for mixing the water layers and for whitecapping of various scales. Whitecapping is a strongly nonlinear process, which involves instability of the surface waves with space and time scales several orders of magnitude smaller than those associated with gravity wave motion. Whitecaps are usually formed at or near the crests of the larger waves and occur in groups with successive crests breaking downwind of one another. Wave breaking is the dominant generator of the ‘primary’ marine aerosol (sea salt) and it is a major factor in the air–sea exchange of gases (including carbon dioxide). Most of the aerosol generated from natural waters is in the form of jet and ?lm drops from the bursting of air bubbles (Monahan and Van Patten, 1989). The enriched aerosols associated with the ejected droplets are very - portant in maintaining a source of salt-laden cloud condensation nuclei as well asinterfacial?uxesoftraceconstituents,includingbacteria,viruses,heavym- als, radioactivity and organic material (Kerman, 1986).

The atmosphere and the ocean form a coupled system which exchanges heat, momentum and water at the air–sea interface. The interface is dynamic and masses and energy are continually transferred across the air–sea interface. The energy ?ow from the atmosphere to the ocean generates an aerodynamically rough sea surface. If the energy ?ow is su?ciently intense, at some points the surface waves will lose their stability and eventually break. Breaking is a very localized and non-stationary phenomenon that is a source of vorticity and turbulence. Dissipated energy becomes available for mixing the water layers and for whitecapping of various scales. Whitecapping is a strongly nonlinear process, which involves instability of the surface waves with space and time scales several orders of magnitude smaller than those associated with gravity wave motion. Whitecaps are usually formed at or near the crests of the larger waves and occur in groups with successive crests breaking downwind of one another. Wave breaking is the dominant generator of the ‘primary’ marine aerosol (sea salt) and it is a major factor in the air–sea exchange of gases (including carbon dioxide). Most of the aerosol generated from natural waters is in the form of jet and ?lm drops from the bursting of air bubbles (Monahan and Van Patten, 1989). The enriched aerosols associated with the ejected droplets are very - portant in maintaining a source of salt-laden cloud condensation nuclei as well asinterfacial?uxesoftraceconstituents,includingbacteria,viruses,heavym- als, radioactivity and organic material (Kerman, 1986).

This book contains a comprehensive study of the internal ocean waves, which play a very important role in ocean physics providing mechanisms for ocean water mixing and circulation, as well as the transportation of gases, nutrients, and a very large number of marine organisms in the ocean body.In contrast to surface waves, the literature on internal waves is not so numerous, mainly due to the difficulties in experimental data collection and in the mathematical description of internal wave propagation. In this book, the basic mathematical principles, a physical description of the observed phenomena, and practical theoretical methods of determination of wave parameters as well as the original method of observation using moving sensors are presented. Special attention is paid to internal wave propagation over changing bottom topographies in shallow seas such as the Baltic Sea.The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended bibliographies, a subject index, and an author index.

This book contains a comprehensive study of the internal ocean waves, which play a very important role in ocean physics providing mechanisms for ocean water mixing and circulation, as well as the transportation of gases, nutrients, and a very large number of marine organisms in the ocean body.In contrast to surface waves, the literature on internal waves is not so numerous, mainly due to the difficulties in experimental data collection and in the mathematical description of internal wave propagation. In this book, the basic mathematical principles, a physical description of the observed phenomena, and practical theoretical methods of determination of wave parameters as well as the original method of observation using moving sensors are presented. Special attention is paid to internal wave propagation over changing bottom topographies in shallow seas such as the Baltic Sea.The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended bibliographies, a subject index, and an author index.

This book contains a comprehensive study of the internal ocean waves, which play a very important role in ocean physics providing mechanisms for ocean water mixing and circulation, as well as the transportation of gases, nutrients, and a very large number of marine organisms in the ocean body.In contrast to surface waves, the literature on internal waves is not so numerous, mainly due to the difficulties in experimental data collection and in the mathematical description of internal wave propagation. In this book, the basic mathematical principles, a physical description of the observed phenomena, and practical theoretical methods of determination of wave parameters as well as the original method of observation using moving sensors are presented. Special attention is paid to internal wave propagation over changing bottom topographies in shallow seas such as the Baltic Sea.The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended bibliographies, a subject index, and an author index.

The future quality of life on Earth fundamentally depends on trends in world climate. The oceans playa dominant role in regulating global climate by help­ ing to control greenhouse gases, global heat transfer and weather patterns. If we also consider the energy and other resources oceans offer, their essential importance to human existence become obvious. Ocean waters are in endless motions. Scales of these motions vary from micro-turbulence through to surface and internal waves, tides, and global currents of planetary dimensions. How­ ever, in each case the water motion satisfies the fundamental fluid mechanics and geophysical fluid mechanics principles. Oceans are not empty, but support a large variety of organisms and plants. Many of the basic attributes of life of these creatures raise such questions as: why are the ocean''s living resources distributed as they are?; how can cyclical changes overthrow the system?; why do organisms have a particular size and shape?; how do they move and reproduce?; how do they capture food and many others. In the majority of situations, biological processes appear to be strongly influ­ enced by the physics, while the physical processes are largely independent of the biology. However, when we consider a time scale of thousands years, the feedback from biology to physics is not so simple. The present composition of the Earth''s atmosphere and the present average temperature at the surface of the Earth have been strongly influenced by living organisms.

The future quality of life on Earth fundamentally depends on trends in world climate. The oceans playa dominant role in regulating global climate by help­ ing to control greenhouse gases, global heat transfer and weather patterns. If we also consider the energy and other resources oceans offer, their essential importance to human existence become obvious. Ocean waters are in endless motions. Scales of these motions vary from micro-turbulence through to surface and internal waves, tides, and global currents of planetary dimensions. How­ ever, in each case the water motion satisfies the fundamental fluid mechanics and geophysical fluid mechanics principles. Oceans are not empty, but support a large variety of organisms and plants. Many of the basic attributes of life of these creatures raise such questions as: why are the ocean's living resources distributed as they are?; how can cyclical changes overthrow the system?; why do organisms have a particular size and shape?; how do they move and reproduce?; how do they capture food and many others. In the majority of situations, biological processes appear to be strongly influ­ enced by the physics, while the physical processes are largely independent of the biology. However, when we consider a time scale of thousands years, the feedback from biology to physics is not so simple. The present composition of the Earth's atmosphere and the present average temperature at the surface of the Earth have been strongly influenced by living organisms.

This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones.Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others.All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included.The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites.In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries.The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles.

This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones.Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others.All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included.The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites.In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries.The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles.

New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests.In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index.

New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests.In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index.

New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields.It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view.The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail.The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text.An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.