Yuniya Kawamura - Böcker

This is the first academic study of sneakers and the subculture that surrounds them. Since the 1980s, American sneaker enthusiasts, popularly known as “sneakerheads” or “sneakerholics”, have created a distinctive identity for themselves, while sneaker manufacturers such as Reebok, Puma and Nike have become global fashion brands. How have sneakers come to gain this status and what makes them fashionable? In what ways are sneaker subcultures bound up with gender identity and why are sneakerholics mostly young men? Based on the author’s own ethnographic fieldwork in New York, where sneaker subculture is said to have originated, this unique study traces the transformation of sneakers from sportswear to fashion symbol. Sneakers explores the obsessions and idiosyncrasies surrounding the sneaker phenomenon, from competitive subcultures to sneaker painting and artwork. It is a valuable contribution to the growing study of footwear in fashion studies and will appeal to students of fashion theory, gender studies, sociology, and popular culture.

Whether you’re investigating fashion as a material object, an abstract idea, a social phenomenon, or a commercial system, qualitative techniques can further your understanding of almost any research topic. Doing Research in Fashion and Dress begins by guiding you through a brief history of fashion studies, and the debates surrounding it, before introducing key qualitative methodological approaches, including ethnography, semiology, and object-based research. Detailed case studies demonstrate how each methodology is used in practice. These case studies include Japanese subcultures, fashion photography blogs and semiotic studies of fashion magazine shoots and advertisements. This second edition also features a new chapter on internet sources and online ethnography, reflecting the adoption of social media tools not only by industry practitioners but also by academics.By contextualizing history, theory and practice Doing Research in Fashion and Dress offers:-A systematic examination of qualitative research methods in fashion studies in social sciences. -A practical guide for anyone wishing to conduct fashion research in academia or in the business world.-An accessible grounding in contemporary fashion studies literature.

This is the first academic study of sneakers and the subculture that surrounds them. Since the 1980s, American sneaker enthusiasts, popularly known as “sneakerheads” or “sneakerholics”, have created a distinctive identity for themselves, while sneaker manufacturers such as Reebok, Puma and Nike have become global fashion brands. How have sneakers come to gain this status and what makes them fashionable? In what ways are sneaker subcultures bound up with gender identity and why are sneakerholics mostly young men? Based on the author’s own ethnographic fieldwork in New York, where sneaker subculture is said to have originated, this unique study traces the transformation of sneakers from sportswear to fashion symbol. Sneakers explores the obsessions and idiosyncrasies surrounding the sneaker phenomenon, from competitive subcultures to sneaker painting and artwork. It is a valuable contribution to the growing study of footwear in fashion studies and will appeal to students of fashion theory, gender studies, sociology, and popular culture.

Is it ever acceptable to “borrow” culturally inspired ideas? Who has ownership over intangible culture? What role does power inequality play? These questions are often at the center of heated public debates around cultural appropriation, with new controversies breaking seemingly every day.Cultural Appropriation in Fashion and Entertainment offers a sociological perspective on the appropriation of race, ethnicity, class, sexuality, and religion embedded in clothing, textiles, jewelry, accessories, hairstyles and tattoos, as well as in entertainment, such as K-pop, Bhangra, and hip-hop.By providing a range of global perspectives on the adoption, adaptation, and application of both tangible and intangible cultural objects, Kawamura and de Jong help move the conversation beyond simply criticizing designers and creators to encourage nuanced discussion and raise awareness of diverse cultures in the creative industries.

Is it ever acceptable to “borrow” culturally inspired ideas? Who has ownership over intangible culture? What role does power inequality play? These questions are often at the center of heated public debates around cultural appropriation, with new controversies breaking seemingly every day.Cultural Appropriation in Fashion and Entertainment offers a sociological perspective on the appropriation of race, ethnicity, class, sexuality, and religion embedded in clothing, textiles, jewelry, accessories, hairstyles and tattoos, as well as in entertainment, such as K-pop, Bhangra, and hip-hop.By providing a range of global perspectives on the adoption, adaptation, and application of both tangible and intangible cultural objects, Kawamura and de Jong help move the conversation beyond simply criticizing designers and creators to encourage nuanced discussion and raise awareness of diverse cultures in the creative industries.

This new edition of a classic work offers a concise introduction to the sociology of fashion, and demystifies the workings of the fashion system. From the origins of fashion studies and the difference between clothing and fashion, through to an examination of 21st century subcultures, and the impact of the digital age on designers, Fashion-ology explores fashion as a global, institutionalized system. With accessible overviews of key debates, issues and perspectives, Yuniya Kawamura provides a complete exploration of the field.Two two new chapters have been added for this third edition, covering ‘The Diversification and Changing Landscapes of Fashion Systems’ and ‘Ecological and Social Sustainability in Fashion’ respectively. There's also more on:- the metaverse as the latest fashion system- the de-Westernization of fashion- postmodern discourse on fashion's relationship to race, gender and class- social media as consumption, production, evaluation, and marketing- fashion weeks, including Modest Fashion Week, Black Fashion Week, the Global Sustainability Fashion Week, and Queer Fashion WeekThere's also a guide to sociological research in fashion, making this essential reading for anyone studying fashion, sociology, anthropology, or cultural studies.

This new edition of a classic work offers a concise introduction to the sociology of fashion, and demystifies the workings of the fashion system. From the origins of fashion studies and the difference between clothing and fashion, through to an examination of 21st century subcultures, and the impact of the digital age on designers, Fashion-ology explores fashion as a global, institutionalized system. With accessible overviews of key debates, issues and perspectives, Yuniya Kawamura provides a complete exploration of the field.Two two new chapters have been added for this third edition, covering ‘The Diversification and Changing Landscapes of Fashion Systems’ and ‘Ecological and Social Sustainability in Fashion’ respectively. There's also more on:- the metaverse as the latest fashion system- the de-Westernization of fashion- postmodern discourse on fashion's relationship to race, gender and class- social media as consumption, production, evaluation, and marketing- fashion weeks, including Modest Fashion Week, Black Fashion Week, the Global Sustainability Fashion Week, and Queer Fashion WeekThere's also a guide to sociological research in fashion, making this essential reading for anyone studying fashion, sociology, anthropology, or cultural studies.

This second edition brings the definitive empirical work on Japanese youth fashion subcultures up-to-date for the 2020s, featuring three new chapters and essential updates in light of new fieldwork and globalized digital media.Based on in-depth ethnographic fieldwork in Tokyo and illustrated with striking color images, Fashioning Japanese Subcultures gives a unique insight into how and why subcultures evolve and what they mean to their members. Defined by style and urban district, subcultures such as Lolita in Harajuku, Gyaru and Gyaru-o in Shibuya, Age-jo in Shinjuku, and Mori Girl in Koenji, articulate identities, affiliations, and aspirations. Over the past 10 years social media has dramatically expanded the reach and impact of these cultural phenomena far beyond their traditional geographic groups, leading to worldwide adoption and adaptation.This second edition features three new chapters on the global impact of anime, manga and cosplay, global youth subcultures and ‘-cores’ in cyberspace and social media, and understanding Japanese subcultures through neofeminist and cyber feminist frameworks. Exploring each subculture over the decade since the last edition, it also features new fieldwork across Tokyo, New York and social media platforms, updated coverage of Euro-American perspectives in light of advancements in postcolonial theory, and new methodological sections on cyberethnography and auto ethnography.

This second edition brings the definitive empirical work on Japanese youth fashion subcultures up-to-date for the 2020s, featuring three new chapters and essential updates in light of new fieldwork and globalized digital media.Based on in-depth ethnographic fieldwork in Tokyo and illustrated with striking color images, Fashioning Japanese Subcultures gives a unique insight into how and why subcultures evolve and what they mean to their members. Defined by style and urban district, subcultures such as Lolita in Harajuku, Gyaru and Gyaru-o in Shibuya, Age-jo in Shinjuku, and Mori Girl in Koenji, articulate identities, affiliations, and aspirations. Over the past 10 years social media has dramatically expanded the reach and impact of these cultural phenomena far beyond their traditional geographic groups, leading to worldwide adoption and adaptation.This second edition features three new chapters on the global impact of anime, manga and cosplay, global youth subcultures and ‘-cores’ in cyberspace and social media, and understanding Japanese subcultures through neofeminist and cyber feminist frameworks. Exploring each subculture over the decade since the last edition, it also features new fieldwork across Tokyo, New York and social media platforms, updated coverage of Euro-American perspectives in light of advancements in postcolonial theory, and new methodological sections on cyberethnography and auto ethnography.

This book is the first biographical account of Sebastian Masuda written in English. Sebastian Masuda is a Japanese creator and artist who is globally known as the king of Japanese “Kawaii” (cute) subculture which originated in Harajuku. His continuous pursuit of the concept of kawaii is his lifetime passion and mission, and his work is always characterized by bright neon colors that led to the emergence of Decora fashion. He wears several hats in the field of fashion, art, and entertainment and uses colorful and kawaii elements as his creative foundation. He treats kawaii styles as explicit, non-violent forms of rebellion and resistance like many other youth subcultures in Japan that express themselves in unconventional fashion. One needs courage to walk down the street wearing bright, flashy clothes and accessories from head to toe.As an artist, Masuda has created prominent art pieces, such as a giant Hello Kitty sculpture in New York and a giant Doraemon statue made out of fluffy yarn in Singapore. As a designer, he has designed the décor of Kawaii Monster Café in Harajuku and Sushidelic, a sushi restaurant, in New York. He also runs a store, 6%DokiDoki, which has its own clothing line. As an entertainment producer, he has collaborated with Kyary Pamyu Pamyu, a Japanese singer and pop culture icon, and produced her first music video.This book traces a strong impact of Masudaʼs difficult and lonely childhood and upbringing and complex family background on his creative endeavors that attract millions of youngsters that are also going through personal hardships. Masuda went through his teenage years spending time alone in the library reading books which made him observant and perceptive. This book also delves into his deep understanding of kawaii with intricate layers of interpretations which are often misunderstood and misconstrued as simply being cute, girlie, and infantile. Kawaii is not just an adjective but a lifestyle, philosophy, and ideology.

This book is the first biographical account of Sebastian Masuda written in English. Sebastian Masuda is a Japanese creator and artist who is globally known as the king of Japanese “Kawaii” (cute) subculture which originated in Harajuku. His continuous pursuit of the concept of kawaii is his lifetime passion and mission, and his work is always characterized by bright neon colors that led to the emergence of Decora fashion. He wears several hats in the field of fashion, art, and entertainment and uses colorful and kawaii elements as his creative foundation. He treats kawaii styles as explicit, non-violent forms of rebellion and resistance like many other youth subcultures in Japan that express themselves in unconventional fashion. One needs courage to walk down the street wearing bright, flashy clothes and accessories from head to toe.As an artist, Masuda has created prominent art pieces, such as a giant Hello Kitty sculpture in New York and a giant Doraemon statue made out of fluffy yarn in Singapore. As a designer, he has designed the décor of Kawaii Monster Café in Harajuku and Sushidelic, a sushi restaurant, in New York. He also runs a store, 6%DokiDoki, which has its own clothing line. As an entertainment producer, he has collaborated with Kyary Pamyu Pamyu, a Japanese singer and pop culture icon, and produced her first music video.This book traces a strong impact of Masudaʼs difficult and lonely childhood and upbringing and complex family background on his creative endeavors that attract millions of youngsters that are also going through personal hardships. Masuda went through his teenage years spending time alone in the library reading books which made him observant and perceptive. This book also delves into his deep understanding of kawaii with intricate layers of interpretations which are often misunderstood and misconstrued as simply being cute, girlie, and infantile. Kawaii is not just an adjective but a lifestyle, philosophy, and ideology.

Despite recent challenges from New York, London and Milan, Paris is renowned as the greatest fashion capital in the world. Its distinctive categorization of haute couture, demi-couture, and prt--porter reflects a highly structured and tightly controlled system that non-western designers have had difficulty penetrating. Yet a number of the most influential Japanese designers have broken into this scene and made a major impact. How? Paris couturiers and designers operate a gate-keeping system that is not only exclusive and rigorous but highly demanding. But, Kawamura asks, does the system facilitate or inhibit new forms of creativity? She shows how traditional French fashion has been both disturbed and strengthened by the addition of outside forces such as Kenzo Takada, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo and Hanae Mori. At the same time she considers many other key questions the contemporary fashion industry should be asking itself. Has it, for example, become primarily preoccupied with the commercial projection of product images rather than with the clothing itself? And what direction will French fashion take without Saint Laurent, Miyake and Kenzo?This insightful book provides the first in-depth study of the Japanese revolution in Paris fashion and raises provocative questions for the future of the industry.