Yuniya Kawamura is Professor of Sociology at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA. She is the author of Fashioning Japanese Subcultures (2012, Berg), Sneakers (2016, Bloomsbury Visual Arts) and Doing Research in Fashion and Dress, (2nd edition, 2020, Bloomsbury Visual Arts).

A compact introductory text which has already become a go-to resource for budding fashion scholars. This updated edition will ensure its relevance for the next generation.

• Preface to the Third Edition 1. Introduction Etymology of Fashion Fashion as a Concept and a Phenomenon Proponents and Opponents of Fashion Studies of Fashion in Social Science Outline of the Book Guide to Further Reading 2. Sociological Discourse and Empirical Studies of Fashion Classical Sociological Discourse of Fashion Fashion, Modernity, and Social Mobility The Origin of the Fashion Phenomenon Sociological Studies of Fashion since the Mid-twentieth CenturyFashion and the Sociology of Culture Fashion as a Manufactured Cultural Symbol Youth Subcultures in Fashion Research Gender and Race in Modern and Postmodern Fashion DiscourseConclusion Guide to Further Reading 3. Fashion as an Institutionalized System: From Paris to the Mediatized World Theoretical Framework of Fashion-ology Fashion as a Myth Supported by the System Different Approaches to Fashion Systems The Beginning of the Fashion System Fashion Production as Collective Activity Empirical Study: The French Fashion System as a Prototype The Decentralization of Fashion Geography from Paris to the WorldConclusion Guide to Further Reading 4. Designers and Consumer: The Personification of Fashion Designers in the Studies of Fashion Designers, Creativity, and Social Structure Legitimation of the Designer’s Creativity The Star System of Designers Hierarchy Among Designers in the Fashion System The Adoption and Consumption of Fashion Consuming Fashion as Symbolic StrategySocial Visibility of Fashion Conclusion Guide to Further Reading 5The Production, Gatekeeping, and Diffusion of Fashion Diffusion Theories of Fashion Gatekeepers: Making Aesthetic Judgments Diffusion Strategies from Fashion Dolls to Fashion Shows Fashion Propaganda through AdvertisingTrickle-up and Trickle-Across Diffusions of FashionSubcultural Commercialization as a Trickle-up Process and LegitimationTrickle-across Theory in Practice: A Collapse of Categorial BoundariesSocial Media Influencers as Gatekeepers and DisseminatorsConclusion Guide to Further Reading 6The Diversification and Changing Landscapes of the Fashion SystemsThe Four Leading Fashion Cities and Fashion WeeksThe Second-tier Fashion Cities and Theme-focused Fashion WeeksYouth Subcultures as an Alternative Fashion SystemThe Metaverse as the Latest Fashion SystemConclusionGuide to Further Reading7Ecological and Social Sustainability in Fashion The United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)Ecological SustainabilitySocial SustainabilitySustainability Certification Standards for Clothing and Textiles ProductionsGovernments’ Regulations on SustainabilityThe Evolution of Status Symbols: From Wasteful Consumption to Conscientious ConsumptionConclusionGuide to Further Reading8Conclusion Appendix: Practical Guide to Sociological Research in Fashion and Dress Notes Bibliography Index

Yuniya Kawamura is Professor of Sociology at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA. She is the author of Fashioning Japanese Subcultures (2012, Berg), Sneakers (2016, Bloomsbury Visual Arts) and Doing Research in Fashion and Dress, (2nd edition, 2020, Bloomsbury Visual Arts).

A compact introductory text which has already become a go-to resource for budding fashion scholars. This updated edition will ensure its relevance for the next generation.

• Preface to the Third Edition 1. Introduction Etymology of Fashion Fashion as a Concept and a Phenomenon Proponents and Opponents of Fashion Studies of Fashion in Social Science Outline of the Book Guide to Further Reading 2. Sociological Discourse and Empirical Studies of Fashion Classical Sociological Discourse of Fashion Fashion, Modernity, and Social Mobility The Origin of the Fashion Phenomenon Sociological Studies of Fashion since the Mid-twentieth CenturyFashion and the Sociology of Culture Fashion as a Manufactured Cultural Symbol Youth Subcultures in Fashion Research Gender and Race in Modern and Postmodern Fashion DiscourseConclusion Guide to Further Reading 3. Fashion as an Institutionalized System: From Paris to the Mediatized World Theoretical Framework of Fashion-ology Fashion as a Myth Supported by the System Different Approaches to Fashion Systems The Beginning of the Fashion System Fashion Production as Collective Activity Empirical Study: The French Fashion System as a Prototype The Decentralization of Fashion Geography from Paris to the WorldConclusion Guide to Further Reading 4. Designers and Consumer: The Personification of Fashion Designers in the Studies of Fashion Designers, Creativity, and Social Structure Legitimation of the Designer’s Creativity The Star System of Designers Hierarchy Among Designers in the Fashion System The Adoption and Consumption of Fashion Consuming Fashion as Symbolic StrategySocial Visibility of Fashion Conclusion Guide to Further Reading 5The Production, Gatekeeping, and Diffusion of Fashion Diffusion Theories of Fashion Gatekeepers: Making Aesthetic Judgments Diffusion Strategies from Fashion Dolls to Fashion Shows Fashion Propaganda through AdvertisingTrickle-up and Trickle-Across Diffusions of FashionSubcultural Commercialization as a Trickle-up Process and LegitimationTrickle-across Theory in Practice: A Collapse of Categorial BoundariesSocial Media Influencers as Gatekeepers and DisseminatorsConclusion Guide to Further Reading 6The Diversification and Changing Landscapes of the Fashion SystemsThe Four Leading Fashion Cities and Fashion WeeksThe Second-tier Fashion Cities and Theme-focused Fashion WeeksYouth Subcultures as an Alternative Fashion SystemThe Metaverse as the Latest Fashion SystemConclusionGuide to Further Reading7Ecological and Social Sustainability in Fashion The United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)Ecological SustainabilitySocial SustainabilitySustainability Certification Standards for Clothing and Textiles ProductionsGovernments’ Regulations on SustainabilityThe Evolution of Status Symbols: From Wasteful Consumption to Conscientious ConsumptionConclusionGuide to Further Reading8Conclusion Appendix: Practical Guide to Sociological Research in Fashion and Dress Notes Bibliography Index

Yuniya Kawamura is Professor of Sociology at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA. She is the author of Fashioning Japanese Subcultures (2012, Berg), Sneakers (2016, Bloomsbury Visual Arts) and Doing Research in Fashion and Dress, (2nd edition, 2020, Bloomsbury Visual Arts).

A compact introductory text which has already become a go-to resource for budding fashion scholars. This updated edition will ensure its relevance for the next generation.

• Preface to the Third Edition 1. Introduction Etymology of Fashion Fashion as a Concept and a Phenomenon Proponents and Opponents of Fashion Studies of Fashion in Social Science Outline of the Book Guide to Further Reading 2. Sociological Discourse and Empirical Studies of Fashion Classical Sociological Discourse of Fashion Fashion, Modernity, and Social Mobility The Origin of the Fashion Phenomenon Sociological Studies of Fashion since the Mid-twentieth CenturyFashion and the Sociology of Culture Fashion as a Manufactured Cultural Symbol Youth Subcultures in Fashion Research Gender and Race in Modern and Postmodern Fashion DiscourseConclusion Guide to Further Reading 3. Fashion as an Institutionalized System: From Paris to the Mediatized World Theoretical Framework of Fashion-ology Fashion as a Myth Supported by the System Different Approaches to Fashion Systems The Beginning of the Fashion System Fashion Production as Collective Activity Empirical Study: The French Fashion System as a Prototype The Decentralization of Fashion Geography from Paris to the WorldConclusion Guide to Further Reading 4. Designers and Consumer: The Personification of Fashion Designers in the Studies of Fashion Designers, Creativity, and Social Structure Legitimation of the Designer’s Creativity The Star System of Designers Hierarchy Among Designers in the Fashion System The Adoption and Consumption of Fashion Consuming Fashion as Symbolic StrategySocial Visibility of Fashion Conclusion Guide to Further Reading 5The Production, Gatekeeping, and Diffusion of Fashion Diffusion Theories of Fashion Gatekeepers: Making Aesthetic Judgments Diffusion Strategies from Fashion Dolls to Fashion Shows Fashion Propaganda through AdvertisingTrickle-up and Trickle-Across Diffusions of FashionSubcultural Commercialization as a Trickle-up Process and LegitimationTrickle-across Theory in Practice: A Collapse of Categorial BoundariesSocial Media Influencers as Gatekeepers and DisseminatorsConclusion Guide to Further Reading 6The Diversification and Changing Landscapes of the Fashion SystemsThe Four Leading Fashion Cities and Fashion WeeksThe Second-tier Fashion Cities and Theme-focused Fashion WeeksYouth Subcultures as an Alternative Fashion SystemThe Metaverse as the Latest Fashion SystemConclusionGuide to Further Reading7Ecological and Social Sustainability in Fashion The United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)Ecological SustainabilitySocial SustainabilitySustainability Certification Standards for Clothing and Textiles ProductionsGovernments’ Regulations on SustainabilityThe Evolution of Status Symbols: From Wasteful Consumption to Conscientious ConsumptionConclusionGuide to Further Reading8Conclusion Appendix: Practical Guide to Sociological Research in Fashion and Dress Notes Bibliography Index