ACC Editions – serie

"I love the Foale and Tuffin book. The layout and graphics are terrific and it's a joy to read. The whole book is so well put together." Mary Quant "I wish all fashion books could be as much fun as this one. But they can't all be about Foale & Tuffin and the spirit of the 1960's ....truly a living book of fashion history." Margaret HowellMarion Foale and Sally Tuffin were two bolshy girls who just did it. After meeting at Walthamstow Art School in 1955 and then studying together at the Royal College of Art, they embarked on a trailblazing career in fashion lasting throughout the 1960s, until their partnership came to an end in 1972. Quirky, youthful creativity, acute sensitivity to the latest moods and trends, expert craftsmanship, and a little Swinging Sixties good fortune placed them at the hub of the cultural explosion in London that defined the era. Their boutique off Carnaby Street was at the epicentre of the new fashion scene. Suddenly, David Bailey was photographing their outfits for VOGUE, Cathy MacGowan was wearing them on Ready, Steady, Go!, and they were jetting around America as part of the ground-breaking Youthquake tour. Through detailed interviews with Foale and Tuffin themselves, exclusive access to their personal archives, and contributions from an extraordinary array of figures from the fashion, art and cultural scenes of the 1960s, 70s and beyond, Iain R. Webb builds a fascinating picture of the time, throwing new light on how fashion and business underwent a period of unprecedented change. It was a period of cross-pollination in art, music and fashion, of entrepreneurial and cultural innovation. Contributors include Manolo Blahnik, Sir Terence Conran, Felicity Green, Barbara Hulanicki, Caterine Milinaire, Janet Street Porter, Mary Quant and Jean Shrimpton. The narrative of the Foale and Tuffin story perfectly traces the decade from its groovy, optimistic beginnings, when the two embryonic fashion designers blithely set up shop in 1961, to its crash-and-burn finale, as Sixties sanguinity melted away into a hangover of Seventies cynicism, masked as it was with the distraction of fancy-dress escapism.

Horses are very rare in Africa. The few to be found west of Sudan, from the lands of the Sahara and Sahel down to the fringes of the tropical forests, belong to the king, the chief warrior and to notable persons. Due to the dense humidity of the tropical rainforest and the deadly tsetse fly, only restricted numbers of horses survive. And yet rider and mount sculptures are common among the Dogon, Djenne, Bamana, Senufo and the Yoruba people. The Akan-Asante people of Ghana and the Kotoko of Chad produced a good deal of small casting brass and bronze sculptures. Some of the artists could barely even have caught a glimpse of a horse. This visually stunning book presents a wealth of African art depicting the horse and its rider in a variety of guises, from Epa masks and Yoruba divination cups to Dogon sculptures and Senufo carvings. In Mali, the Bamana, Boso and Somono ethnic groups still celebrate the festivals of the puppet masquerade. The final chapter of this book is dedicated to the art and cult of these festivals, which are still alive and well. It is not the habit of the African artist to provide intellectual statements for his work, yet his unique creative dynamic and far-searching vision does not conflict with that of his Western counterpart. It is fair to state that the African, who though not educated in Western art history, contributed his fair share to the shaping of modern art.Features works from museums in both Africa and Europe, including the Musée Royal de L'Afrique Central, Tervuren in Belgium; Afrika Museum, Berg en Dal, Netherlands; Musée du quai Branly, Paris; Museum Rietberg, Zurich; The British Museum, London; Museu National de Antologia, Lisbon and National Museum, Lagos, Nigeria.

Italian Renaissance art is closely intertwined with the development of courts and court culture in much of the Italian territory. The patronage of the ruling families of the small Italian city-states greatly favoured the flourishing of the figurative arts and architecture, but also in music, literature, and theatre. The book starts with an introduction by Marco Folin, the volume's editor, on the critical issues of court art and its historiography, followed by an important essay on the historical and geographical framework of Renaissance Italy, illustrated by 18 especially-made maps, useful to understand the complexity and fragmentation of the country in the 15th century. The role of princely patronage in the development of music and literature is then examined: from the place of the humanists at court to the link between music and propaganda, from the first theatrical representations to the rise of the printing press and the publication of the most famous Renaissance books: Castiglione's Book of the Courtier and Ariosto's Orlando Furioso. The second, longer part of the volume, is arranged geographically and covers the entire peninsula, giving attention not only to the major courts, such as Milan, Mantua, Ferrara, Urbino, papal Rome, Naples and the crypto-court of the Medicis in Florence, but devoting chapters to the minor courts spread around northern and central Italy, from the Paleologues rulers of Montferrat to the Malatesta court in Rimini, from Carpi under the Pios to the Orsinis' rule in Bracciano. The main chapters are enriched by texts focused on particular aspects of Renaissance culture and politics: the courts of the cardinals and the southern barons, the patronage of the condottieri, the specificity of Venetian state-commissions, etc. The essays are written by well-known Italian scholars - such as Franco Piperno on music, Rinaldo Rinaldi on literature, Alessandro Cecchi on Medicean Florence and Alessandro Angelini on the papal court in Rome - and are accompanied by a rich and accurate iconography, showing not only famous masterpieces but also lesser known works of art and architecture. The book is completed by an annotated bibliography for the various chapters and by an index of names and places.

"Picture the moment, in the run-up to a Christian Dior haute couture show. John Galliano is working silently in the Paris studio with his friend and ally, the master milliner Stephen Jones. The designer is looking at the arc of a silhouette, the drape of a skirt and the tilt of a hat: 'I often work through a mirror for most of my decisions and I always see Stephen's reflection,' says Galliano. 'He is reading my every nuance. He is studying my face. I don't need to say anything - he can read my mind'." - From the essay by Suzy Menkes. Stephen Jones is one of the world's most talented and distinguished milliners. This exquisitely illustrated monograph is the first to examine his illustrious career and famous collaborations.Including photographs from private collections and museums, the book focuses on a variety of aspects of his work, from his collaborations with Boy George, John Galliano and Thierry Mugler to his work with photographers Bruce Weber and Nick Knight.Recent collections include: Marc Jacobs, L'Wren Scott, Giles Deacon, Gareth Pugh, Loewe, Christian Dior Haute Couture, Prêt-à-porter, Ski & Baby collections, John Galliano, Comme des Garcons. His recent commissions include: Dita von Teese/Crazy Horse, Bryan Adams, Immodesty Blaize, Take That, Sex and the City 2, Perrier Jouet, Printemps, Ascot, Disneyland, Kylie Minogue, Kate Moss/Met Ball."With her moulded felt cloche shadowing an eye and pinned with a tremblant diamond cow-parsley sprig, Nadja Auermann, slinking down the stairs of a crumbling Hotel Particulier in Paris for the John Galliano show, defined the fashion moment. Once again, Stephen Jones, millinery magician, had summoned up the spirit of the day. Jones is a deft conjurer, who can draw whimsy from a hat. Steeped in couture lore and craft, he nevertheless propels his art into the future with his ceaseless invention and thistledown touch. His genius is to enhance the mystery, allure, wit of the wearer - although a Jones hat might be a dramatic statement in itself, it will never overpower." - Hamish Bowles, Style Editor, Vogue USA

"Miss Caroline Charles, aged 22 - youngest of the English designers whose fashions have captured New York - returns there to show her Spring collection. She is dark, beautiful and frail, with a small voice. But she is deceptive; she is made of iron; her energy is matched only by her persistence. Nothing will stop her. She is at the top now, and might stay there for 50 years." John Gale, Observer Oct 25th 1964Caroline Charles is one of London's most respected womenswear designers. She has developed her business over the past five decades and the label is sold and marketed throughout the world. Caroline Charles began in the world of fashion art school followed by a couture apprenticeship and a stint as a photographer's assistant; she then worked for Mary Quant and was inspired by couturiers as well as being a leading designer in the '60s youthquake and swinging London. Her first collections were kooky and fresh and included a white cotton dress made from a bedspread! Caroline Charles was one of the original designers to join what was later to become British Fashion Week. Caroline opened a shop in Beverly Hills in the '70s and in the '90s had many successes with shops and shows in Japan. Her clothes were quickly snapped up by celebrities, which over the years have ranged from Lulu, Marianne Faithfull and Cilla Black as well as special suits being made for Mick Jagger and Ringo Starr. Princess Diana became a regular client as did Emma Thompson who wore a Caroline Charles design to receive an Oscar. Caroline Charles has been invited over the years to be a design consultant to major brands such as Burberry and Marks and Spencer as well as having design collaborations with major accessories and textile companies. In the '90s Caroline Charles designed the official scarf to mark the 40th anniversary of the accession of the Queen. As she celebrated her own 40th anniversary, Caroline Charles was awarded an OBE for services to the British Fashion Industry. Celebrations followed at the Victoria & Albert Museum with another award from the British Fashion Council. Book contributors include: Alexandra Shulman - Editor British Vogue, Suzy Menkes - Fashion Editor International Herald Tribune, Harold Tillman CBE - Chairman of the British Fashion Council, Caroline Baker - Fashion Director, Bruce Oldfield - Designer, Sue Crewe - Editor of House & Garden, Jess Cartner-Morley - Fashion Editor The Guardian and Richard Knight - Christies, London, among others.

"Clive could always come up with a psychedelic vision to suit the current mood of far-out fantasy in fashion. In one sitting, he was able to capture not only the romance of a Dior coat but the futurism of Pierre Cardin." - Grace Coddington quoted from her book Thirty Years of Fashion at Vogue."Clive Arrowsmith is the Caravaggio of the 21st century. He creates magic and dreams, he is the master of light." - Marcella Martinelli, Fashion director."Clive is like the St. Francis of photography - he can charm the birds right out of the trees, but then tells better stories. His work combines not only a creative mind and technical excellence, but most importantly, a real connection with his subjects." - Michael Daks, Professor of Photography at Paris College of Art & Istituto Marangoni, Paris."Clive Arrowsmith's insightful portraits shimmer with artful lighting and technical mastery, reflecting his own deep humorous humanity." - Nicholas Vreeland.Clive Arrowsmith is a celebrated London-based international photographer. After leaving art school, where he studied painting and design, he began taking photographs whilst working as a graphic designer for television. Leaving television to work as a photographer, he soon gained commissions from leading fashion magazines, most notably, British and French Vogue, Harpers, The Sunday Times Colour Magazine, Vanity Fair, Esquire U.S.A., and F.T. "How to Spend It".Clive continues to work in this genre in both editorial and advertising photography and is equally known for his music and celebrity images: Paul McCartney, Wings, Mick Jagger, Jeff Beck, George Harrison, Daniel Barenboim, Anna Netrebko, Art Garfunkel, Def Leppard, Prince Charles, Michael Caine and Damien Hirst to name a few. Clive is also an accomplished landscape and still life photographer and is the only photographer to have shot the Pirelli Calendar two years in succession.Having worked on many major stills advertising campaigns, such as De Beers, Revlon, G.H.D. Morello, Caroline Castigliano, Lexus, Hassleblad etc, Clive has continued to broaden his creative scope moving on to direct commercials for Heinz, Revlon, Hamlet Cigars (winner of The Silver Lion Cannes Film Festival), Rapeed Sunglasses, Greenmail Whitney Beer, music videos for artists like Lee Griffiths, Jamiroquai, Jools Holland, ZTT and Def Leppard, and album covers such as Wings' 'Band on the Run.' This is the first book to celebrate his career.

In 1967, a 17-year-old aspiring photographer named Ed Caraeff found himself front row at the Monterey Pop Festival, California. Caraeff had never seen Hendrix before, nor was he familiar with his music. But Caraeff had his ever-present camera and as Hendrix lit his guitar, he snapped a photo. That picture - Hendrix burning his guitar at Monterey - has become one of the most iconic images of rock and roll. A photo that defined Hendrix as an artist, appeared on the cover of Rolling Stone magazine not once, but twice, and launched Caraeff's photographic career. Timed to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Monterey Pop Festival, Burning Desire reveals never-before published images from the magnificent, Hendrix-dedicated archive that Caraeff has compiled. From onstage to backstage, Jimi Hendrix was as electric in front of the camera as he was when he strummed his guitar. In Burning Desire, Caraeff showcases more than 100 images, including rare shots and contract sheets, and discusses his experiences with this incredible musician.Contents: Monterey International Pop Music Festival: June 18, 1967Hollywood Bowl: August 18, 1967Anaheim Convention Center: February 9, 1968Ackerman Union Ballroom: February 13, 1968Hollywood Bowl: September 14, 1968Whiskey-A-Go-Go: October 1968Newport '69: June 20-22, 1969

Stories and photography intermingle on the pages of this gorgeous homage to '70s and '80s cinema and celebrity. Including rare and never-before-seen images, Through Her Lens is a wonderful collection of images and memoires that capture the spirit of the age. From unexpected late-night calls from Romy Schneider, to a stay at Paul Newman's home in Connecticut; from working on set with Bernardo Bertolucci, Werner Herzog, Steven Spielberg and Sydney Pollack, to lounging poolside with Raquel Welch; Sereny reveals her favourite moments from working behind the lens. This is the first photographic retrospective of Sereny's star-studded career, including nearly 100 never-before-seen images complemented by Eva's own stories.

Shafik Gabr started his collection of Orientalist art in 1993 by acquiring a painting by Ludwig Deutsch entitled Egyptian Priest Entering a Temple. His collection is today amongst the very few in the world to count such a large number of works by the famed Austrian artist as well as some of the finest examples of the greatest masters of Orientalism such as Jean-Léon Gérôme, Frederick Arthur Bridgman, Gustav Bauernfeind and many others. Important for both scholars and art lovers, the Shafik Gabr Collection impresses us with its richness and variety. It includes masterpieces by some of the major nineteenth and twentieth century Orientalists found in private hands today and demonstrates the owner's appreciation of differences as well as similarities in European visions of the versatile and diverse Orient. The selection of paintings in this collection illustrates the owner's evolving taste, his relationship with the world of Orientalism and his interest in its European expression.This Orientalist collection is a harmonious "kaleidoscope" of genres, presenting the Orient through a variety of forms, styles and techniques, and revealing to the European viewer the mysterious East with its bright colours, its exotic and leisurely lifestyle. Over the years, it has become one of the most complete and magnificent tributes dedicated to the world of Orientalism and as such some of the most renowned experts in this field have contributed to this book in order to mark its importance in the art world.Lavishly illustrated, Masterpieces of Orientalist Art: The Shafik Gabr Collection also includes essays by distinguished Orientalist scholars.

Jacqueline Groag was probably the most influential textile designer in Britain in the post Second World War era. Although originally Czech, she studied textile and pattern design in Austria in the 1920s. During the late twenties and early thirties she designed textiles for the Wiener Werkstatte in Vienna and subsequently designed and produced unique hand printed lengths of fabrics for many of the leading Parisian fashion houses, including Chanel, Lanvin, Worth, Schiaparelli and Paul Poiret. She was awarded a gold medal for textile design at the Milan Triennale in 1933 and another gold medal for printed textiles at the Paris World Fair in 1937. Jacqueline was not only a serious and highly respected contender in the field of textile and pattern design but, with her husband, the Modernist architect Jacques Groag, was also deeply immersed in the intellectual life of Vienna. In 1938 the sophisticated world of Jacques and Jacqueline was brutally shattered when the Anschluss, the political unification of Austria and Germany, occurred and the German army entered Vienna. Faced with the actuality of the Nazi terror the Groags, who were Jewish, fled to Czechoslovakia and their home city of Prague. After a brief respite they were once more forced to flee in 1939, this time to London. On their arrival in England they were welcomed and championed by leading members of the British design fraternity, amongst whom were Sir Gordon Russell, the doyen of British architects Sir Charles Reilly and Jack Pritchard, founder of the modernist design company, Isokon. Much of the Contemporary style of the textiles and wallpapers shown at the 1951 Festival of Britain were heavily indebted to Jacqueline's influential designs of the 1940s. Many examples of her work were featured prominently at the Festival and from then on she became a major influence on pattern design internationally. She developed a large client group in the United States during the fifties and sixties, amongst whom were Associated American Artists, Hallmark Cards and American Greetings Ohio. In the later 1950s and throughout the 1960s she became increasingly involved with Sir Misha Black and the Design Research Unit (D.R.U.), working on the interiors for boats and planes and trains, particularly the design of textiles and plastic laminates for BOAC and British Rail. One of her last commissions from Misha Black, in the mid-seventies was a distinctive moquette for London Transport, for seating on both buses and tube trains. Her work and influence did not just extend to the large corporations and exclusive couturiers but was familiar to the general public through stores and companies such as John Lewis, Liberty of London, David Whitehead, Edinburgh Weavers, Sandersons, Warerite and Formica. Her remarkable achievement finally received public recognition in 1984 when, at the age of 81, she was made an R.D.I. - a Royal Designer for Industry - the ultimate accolade for any designer in Britain.

*Illustrates Brian Duffy's five different photographic shoots with David Bowie, documenting Bowie's career and pioneering reinvention, as well as Duffy's special relationship with the artist over almost a decade*Includes some of the most famous Bowie images together without takes and rare shots "Talking about a creative session is like talking about a boxing match. It happened because there was a little bit of magic in the room that night. I'll say it myself, it's a fucking great cover."Brian Duffy Brian Duffy defined the image of the 1960s, and was as famous as the stars he photographed. Together with David Bailey and Terence Donovan, he is recognized as one of the innovators of "documentary" fashion photography, a style which revolutionized fashion imagery and furthermore the fashion industry. Duffy's most famous photograph dates from the 1970s and is the iconic and revolutionary cover of David Bowie's album Aladdin Sane, a shot that became the defining look of Bowie's long career, and has been referred to as the Mona Lisa of pop.The photographer and the rock star collaborated on four other projects: Ziggy Stardust, The Man Who Fell to Earth, Scary Monsters (and Super Creeps) and Lodger. They worked together during the pivotal years of Bowie's career; when the king of glam was assuming and discarding extraordinary personas, Duffy was capturing them all. Written by David Bowie's biographer, Kevin Cann, Duffy Bowie: Five Sessions features anecdotes and stories from those attending the shoots-including Tony Defries (Bowie's manager at the time of Ziggy Stardust); Celia Philo (designer) & Philip Castle (airbrush artist) from the famous Aladdin Sane shoot; Francis Newman (Duffy's studio manager); May Routh (costume designer) from The Man Who Fell to Earth; Geoff MacCormack (musician and Bowie's childhood friend); Derek Boshier (art director of Lodger); Natasha Kornilof costume designer for Scary Monsters; Edward Bell (artist); Steve Strange (musician) and Duffy's son, Chris, who also worked on the Scary Monsters session. Included are many unseen images and behind the scenes photographs. "It wasn't until we saw the contact sheets the next day I remember thinking, God this is spectacular.You just knew you had cracked it, boy, did you know it."Celia Philo

In the late 1950s and early 1960s French New Wave cinema exploded onto international screens with films like Les quatre cents coups, A bout de souffle and Jules et Jim. They were radical, artistic, original and most importantly set up the director as a creative genius; at the forefront were Francois Truffaut and Jean-Luc Godard. Today these films are credited with changing cinema forever. For many film goers they command strong and passionate respect and became the foundations on which a lifetime of cinema-going is built. In the photographs of Raymond Cauchetier we bear witness to the great artistic genius that was central to the process of making these films. Cauchetier's photographs are a culturally important documentary of the director at work, his methods and processes. His photographs capture some of the most memorable moments in film; Jean-Paul Belmondo and Jean Seberg on the Champs Élysées in A bout de souffle, Jeanne Moreau in the race scene of Jules et Jim, Anna Karina in a Parisian Cafe in Une femme est une femme.But Cauchetier's genius lies also in the fact that his photographs are far above just a visual record of these films. They clearly show the same spirit, the same freedom and the same originality that made The New Wave so important. Cauchetier's photographs are as much a part of The New Wave as the films themselves. In the words of Richard Brody: In these images, Raymond Cauchetier, a witness to art, made art by bearing true witness.This is the first book published in English featuring the New Wave film photographs of Raymond Cauchetier.

The wee folk have returned! Uncover the mystery of who they are and why they are here in the first book of the Vinetrope Adventures. Following a young girl, Sara, who has recently lost her mom to cancer, Return of the Vinetropes tells the story of a remarkable fairy-like creature found in Sara's back yard. Lucinda Vinetrope: born wise, full-grown, and all alone. She may only be 12 inches high, but her personality is huge! Her arrival signifies the return of the Vinetrope nation, but also the return of their evil counterparts, the Chargons and the Vinkali. Joined by a supporting cast of comedic characters, animal and human alike, Sara and Lucinda set off on their quest to find the other Vinetropes and protect their world from danger.