Printing of Textile Substrates

Mathews Kolanjikombil is currently engaged with textile mills in India and abroad, and has over 50 years of experience in woven and knitted plant operations. He holds a B.Sc. from Kerala University, India and a B.Tech. from ICT, Bombay, India. His expertise includes process standardization in preparation, dyeing, printing, and finishing; production quality; process optimization; machinery selection and operation; strategic costing; and project planning. He has also authored several books on textile processing.

• PrefacePart I– Printing of Cellulosic Fibres1. Direct Dyes– 1. Direct Printing2. Discharge Printing Under Direct Dyes– White Discharge– Sulphoxylate Formaldehyde Method– Alternate recipe for Neutral White Discharge– Alkaline discharge with Sodium Sulphoxylate Formaldehyde– Sodium Bisulphite Method– Stannous Chloride Method– Coloured Discharges– Coloured Discharges with Vat Dyes– Coloured Discharge Using Solubilised Vat Dyes– Coloured Discharge Using Solubilised Vat Dyes– Coloured Discharge with Direct dyes– Coloured Discharges with Basic Dyes3. Azoics– Direct Printing of Azoic Dyes– Hot solution process– Cold solution process– I.Base printing Method– II. Naphtholate Printing method– Naphthol Nitrite Padding Method– Naphthol Nitrite Printing Method– Steaming methods– Resist Style Printing Under Azoic Colours– White Resist on Azoic Ground– White resist on Navy (Variamin Blue) ground– Special White Resists under other azoics– coloured Resist Under Naphthol– a. Common Method– b. Special Method of coloured resist– Special metho d of coloured resist with azoic and reactive dyes– Coloured resist with Vat dye– Coloured resist with solubilized vat dye– Discharge Style printing on Azoic Grounds– White Discharge– Coloured Discharge on Azoic Grounds– Naphtholate Prints– Solubilized Azoic Colours– Rapid fast colours– Rapidogen colours– Direct Printing– Rapid fast colours– Printing Rapid fast Colours alongside Vat and Solubilized vat colours– Rapidogen Colours– Conversion style– Special prints with Naphtholates and Diazo Fast Blue B and Diazo Fast Red B– Special African print using Naphthol and Phthalogen Blue.4. Reactive Dyes– Direct Style Printing– Various ingredients of Reactive print pastes– Thickenings– General– Functions of the Thickener in a Reactive Print Paste– Sodium alginate thickenings– Limitations of natural thickeners (alginates)– Emulsion thickening– Semi-emulsion thickenings– Synthetic thickeners– Urea– Alkali– Preparation of Print Pastes– Preparation of the Print Paste by dissolution Method- With Emulsion Thickneing– Stability of print pastes and prints to storage– MonochloroTriazine or Hot Brand Dyes– Vinyl Suphone dyes in Printing– Other Classes of Dyes in Printing– Washing off of Reactive Prints– Direct printing with reactive dyes– Methods of printing of Monochloro-s-triazine dyes– One phase Prints– Steaming Method– Dry heat (Baking) Process– High Temperature Steaming– Flash-age Process– Infra-red Fixation– Print Dry Process– Contact Fixation Method– Reactive printing using synthetic thickener (Two phase printing)– Mixed thickener system with synthetic thickener– Printing with cold brand (DCT) dyes– Steaming process– Alkali Pad drying process– Air development process– Printing with Monofluorotriazine dyes– Printing with Remazol Dyes (Vinyl Sulphone Dyes)– Flash ageing method– Two Phase Prints– Loop steamer or Pad-steam method– Reactive printing using synthetic thickener (Two phase printing)– Reactive printing using synthetic thickener (Two phase printing)– Flash ager method– Cold Pad Batch Method– Caustic Shock Method– Wet fixation method for Remazols (VS)– Thermofixation Method– Fiaxtion by super heated steam– Non Steaming Method– Prepreparation method– Printing methods for (FCP) fluorochloropyrimidine dyes– Single Phase printing with MFTdyes– Two phase Printing with DFCP (Difluorochloro pyrimidine)– Reactive Prints alongside Dyes of other Classess– Reactive Dyes on Naphtholated Ground– Reactive dyes Along side Vat ColoursPrinting MCT dyes in admixture with other classes of dyes– Reactive dyes mixing with solubilized vat colours5. Resist Printing Under Reactive Pad Dyeings– White resists– White resists with MCT Dyes– White resist by Two phase process– White Resist by Reverse Method– White resist under reactives– different method– White resists under Vinyl Sulphones (Remazols)– Matt White Resist– Half Tone Resists– Coloured Resists– Coloured Resists under Aniline Black– After Print Method/ Over print method– Coloured resists with Vat dyes– Coloured Resist using solubilized vat dyes– Coloured resists with pigment dyes– Preprint– pad Process– Wet On Wet Process- Dry on wet Process– Pigment Resist with High Solvent System (MTO)Pre Print– Pad System– Resists using Vinyl Sulphones– Sulphite Resists– White Resists by using Bisulphite– Resin Resists– Fast colour salt resist under Reactive ground– White and pigment colour resist under vinyl suIphone reactive dyes– Reactive colour resist under reactivedyes using special resist agents– Discharge Prints on Reactive Ground– White discharge– Vat Colour Discharges6. Oxidation Colours– Aniline Black– Direct Prints– Oxidation Black Using Alginate thickener- Sulphur Black– Resist Prints Under Aniline Black– Coloured Resist Under Aniline Black– Coloured Resist with Pigment Colours7. Pigment Colours– Direct Style Printing– Emulsion thickening method– Aqueous Synthetic Thickener Method– Aqueous Synthetic Thickener Method– Aqueous Synthetic Thickener Method– Discharge Style printing– Khadi Prints8. Vat Dyes– Theory of reduction of vat dyes and the printing process– Rate of reduction of vat dyes– Other reactions during the leuco vat formation– Oxidation– Printing of cellulosic fibres– Printing paste ingredients– Thickening agents– Reducing agents– Alkali– Hydroscopic agents– The dyes– Direct style printing– Single stage printing– Potash-Rongolite Method (All in one method)– Potash-Caustic Method– Two-phase Printing (or Pad steam method/Flash ageing method– Discharge Style Printing– Reduction Discharge– White Discharge– Oxidation Discharges– Chromate Method– Chlorate Method– Coloured Discharges– Coloured Discharge on Vat Dyed Ground with Solubilised Vat Dyes– Resist style Printing– White Resist– Resist prints under Prints– Resist under Pad Dyeings– White Resists– Coloured resists– Coloured Vat Resist under rapidogens– Print resist-pad aniline black method– Pad Aniline Black– Print Resist– Coloured vat resist under Reactive dyeing9. Indigo– The Glucose process– Hydrosulphite Process10. Sulphur Dyes– Direct prints– Caustic Soda Hydrosulphite Process– Sodium Sulphide Method11. Indigosols– Direct Style Printing– Wet development methods– Indigosols Printed Alone– (i) Bichromate Method– ii)Neutral Chromate Method– iii)Nitrite Process– Steaming Methods- Chlorate Process– Ammonium Sulphocyanide Process for Long Time Steaming– Diethyl Tartarate (Indigosol Developer T/Soledon developer D) Process– Ammonium Chlorate Process– Ferric Chloride Process– Chlorite Process– Air Development Methods– Aluminum Chlorate Process– Acid Steaming Methods– The chromate acid ageing process– Alternate Detailed Recipes for Solubilized Vat and Azoic Colours– Printing of Indigosols dyes alongside other classes of dyes– Printing Indigosols along side Rapidogens and Rapid Fast Colours– The chromate-acid age process– Neutral steaming process– Nitrite Process– Indigosols printed along side reactives– Resist Prints– White resists– Resists Print Under Nitrite process– Coloured Resists Under Indigosol– Coloured resist with mechanical resists– Indigosol resists under indigosols– Rapidogen Reserves on Indigosols Ground.– Coloured Resist Using Vat colours– Indigosols as Illuminating colours in Resist Style Printing– Indigosol resist under Aniline Pad –Dyeing– Print resist-pad aniline black– Pad Aniline– Print Resist Method– Discharge style printing– Vat-Indigosol Discharge printPart II– Printing Fabrics Natural Fibres Other than Cotton– Printing of Silk12. Pretreatment of Silk for Printing– Bombyx mori Silk– Rapid degumming– Degumming with enzymes and synthetic detergents– Ecru silk– Souple silk– Bleaching and Optical whitening– Tussah Silk– Degumming– Degumming with synthetic dtergents– Degumming with enzymes– Bleaching of Tussah silk– Oxidation bleach– Oxidative cum reductive bleach– Dyeing of silk with acid dyes for discharge grounds– Choice of thickening agent– Direct prints– Acid Dyes– 1:2 Metal Complex Dyes– Direct Dyes– Indigosols– Reactive Dyes– Normal Steaming Method– Dry Heat Fixation Method– Sodium Silicate Pad Batch Method– Reactive Printing with Synthetic Thickener– Cationic dyes (Basic dyes)– Discharge Prints– White discharge on acid/reactive ground– Coloured Discharges– Basic and acid dyes (Discharge reistant)– Alternate Recipes for White and Coloured Discharge Prints– Alternative recipe for Discharge print with Tin salt.– Coloured discharges with vat dyesPrinting of WoolPretreatment of wool for printing– Scouring– Alkaline scouring13. Neutral scouring– Acid scouring– Chlorination– Method with Bleaching powder– Method with Dichloroisocyanuric Acid– Chlorination by gaseous chlorine– Shrink resist treatment by polymer treatments and other methods– Plasma Treatment– Bleaching– Reductive Bleach– Direct prints on chlorinated wool– Printing paste ingredients– Acid dyes– 1:2 Metal complex dyes– Metal Complex (1:1) Dyes– Normal Reactive Prints (Cold and Hot Brands)– Wool reactive dyes– Cationic dyes (Basic dyes)– Direct dyes– Chrome dyes– Resist printing– Sulphamic acid Resists– Resist by special Resist agents– Discharge prints– Dyeing of wool with acid dyestuffs for Discharge Prints– White Discharge on Acid/Reactive Dyed Wool– Coloured Discharges– Alternate recipe for white and coloured discharge– Coloured Discharges with Basic dyes– Vigoureaux printing– Acid dyes in vigourex printingPart III– Printing Of Synthetic Fibres– Printing of Polyester Fibres14. Direct Prints– Disperse dyes– Special recipe for pressure steam fixation– Special recipe for superheated steam or hot air fixation– Resist Prints– White Resist– Coloured Resist with disperse dyes– Alternate Recipe for Coloured Resist– Pad dyeings of Alkaline Resist for Polyester– Discharge prints– White Discharge resist for the above pad dyeings Coloured Discharge resist for theabove pad dyeings– Discharge Prints– White Discharge– White discharge print (Superheated steam fixation)– Coloured Discharges– Coloured Discharges with Disperse dyes and Tin salt (Pressure steam)– Coloured discharges with disperse dye and Tin salt (Superheated steam)– Printing of Cellulose Acetate and Cellulose Triacetate, Fibres15. Direct Prints– Disperse dyes– Vat Dyes– Normal all-in process– Printing Triacetates– Direct Prints– Vat dyes– Acid leuco process– White and coloured discharge on Cellulose– Printing Triacetate– Direct printing– Vat dyes– All-in Process– Alternate recipe using Thiourea Dioxide– Alternate Recipe using Calcium Formaldehyde Sulphoxylate– Acid leuco process– Discharge and Resist prints– White and coloured discharges– Alternate recipe using Thiourea Dioxide– Alternate Recipe using Calcium Formaldehyde Sulphoxylate– Coloured Discharges on the above ground using selected Vat, Disperse and BasicDyes -Printing of Cellulose acetates (Di- and Tri-acetates)– Fabric preparation– Procedure for Beam Dyeing Machine Preparation of Acetate Warp Knits– Procedure for Continuous Open-Width Preparation of Warp Knits– Procedure for Soft flow Dyeing Machine Preparation– Knits and Wovens– Direct Prints– Fibre Reactive Dyes– Disperse dyes– Acid and Metal complex dyes– Discharge Prints– Discharge Print on Disperse dyed grounds on acetates– Fixation by Dry Heat or High Temperature steaming– Fixation by Atmospheric or Pressure steaming– Coloured Discharges– Discharge Prints on Secondary Cellulose Acetate– White and Coloured Discharge– Alternate recipe for white discharge using Calcium Formaldehyde Sulphoxylate– Coloured Discharge (Basic Dyes) on Secondary Acetate– Printing of Acrylics fibres16. Pretreatment– Desizing– Washing– Bleaching and Optical Whitening– Stabilisation– Direct Prints– Cationic dyes– Disperse Dyes– Reactive Dyes– Modified Basic Dyes– Selected 1: 2 metal complex dyes– Vat dyes– Discharge prints– White Discharge on Basic Dyed Ground– White Discharge on Disperse Dyed Ground– Coloured Discharge on Basic Dyed Grounds– Coloured Discharge on Disperse Dyed Grounds– Coloured Discharge on Basic Dyed Ground– Vigourex PrintingPrinting of Nylon Fibres17. Pretreatment– Scouring and relaxing– Heatsetting/Stabilizing– Print Paste Constituents– Thickener– Acid donors– Dissolving Assistant– Reserving and Fixing Agent– Deareating and Penetrating Agent– Fixation of polyamide prints– Washing off– Direct Prints– 1:2 Metal Complex Dyes I– Metal Complex Dyes II- Acid and Metal Complex dyes– Disperse Dyes– Reactive Dyes– Printing Reactive Dyes in alkaline paste– Hot Brand Reactive dyes– Acid and Direct Dyes– Alternate Recipe Using Alginate for Direct Dyes– Disperse Print on Nylon by Thermofix Method– Wool Reactive Dyes– Discharge Prints on polyamide– White Discharge– Alternate recipe using Calcium Formaldehyde sulphoxylate– Coloured Discharges– Coloured Discharge (Alternate Recipe)– Coloured Discharges with Disperse Dyes– Printing of Polyamide/Elastane Fabrics– Pretreatment– Relaxation– Heat Setting– Processing of Circular knits– Scouring/relaxation– Full White– Ground Dyeing with acid dyes– Ground Dyeing with 1:2 Metal Complex dyesPrinting of Lyocell fabricsPreparation– Direct printing– Direct Dyes– White and colour dischargePart IV– Printing of Blended fibres18. Polyester/Cellulose Blended fibres– Direct Print– Reactive (Not VS) /Disperse Dye Combination Disperse/Reactive (Not VS)dyes combination (2DA Process)– Polyester/Cellulosics with Disperse/Direct Dyes– Disperse/Indigosol combination or Indigosol alone– One phase Method– Two Phase Method– Pigment/Disperse dyes combination– Discharge prints– Special Printing on Polyester/Cellulose– Burnout Prints– Polyamide/Cellulose Acetates Blended fibres– Direct PrintsPolyamide/Cellulose Acetate and Polyamide/Triacetate– Acid Colours– Disperse dyes on Polyamide/Cellulose Acetate I– Disperse dyes on Polyamide/Cellulose Triacetate II– Basic Dyes on Polyamide/Cellulose Acetate and Polyamide/Triacetate– Basic Colours– Polyester/Wool Blended Fibres– Pretreatment– Scouring– Bleaching– Direct Printing– Disperse /Reactive Combination- Preparation of Disperse Print Paste– Preparation of Reactive print pastes– Printing, Fixation and washing-off– Preparation of print pastes by the strewing-in method– Preparation of Print Paste– Disperse/1:2 Metal complex dyes– Alternate Method– Printing of Polyamide/Cellulose blended fibres– Direct Printing– One phase printing with Reactive dyes– Two phase printing with reactive (no VS dye) and wool reactive (e.g.,Drimalan dyes– Clariant– Printing Nylon/cellulose blend with 1:2 Metal complex and Direct dyes– Acrylic/Cotton blended fibres– Direct Prints– Vat dyes– Acrylic/Wool blended Fibres– Direct Prints– Cellulose acetate/viscose Blended fibres– Direct Prints– Vat dyes– Cellulose Acetate/Nylon Blended fibres– Direct prints– Disperse dyes– 1: 2 metal complex dyes– Printing of Elastane Fabrics– Direct printing– Heat transfer printing– Polyamide/Lycra Blends– 1:2 Metal complex, acid dyes– Normal reactive and wool reactive dyesSpecial Printing MethodsPrinting Rapid fast and Rapidogen colours Alongside Solubilised Vat orAniline Black.– Outline Printing with Special Chemicals (Lyoprint CF– Ciba)– Crepe Effect by Printing– Style 1: Crepe effect printing with sodium hydroxide (caustic soda)– Style 2: Crepe effect printing with special pigment binder– Glucose Tonal Resist under Reactive Dyes