Maude Bass-Krueger is a professor in the department of Art History, Theatre, and Music Studies at the University of Ghent, Belgium.Hayley Edwards-Dujardin is an independent scholar and editor based in Paris, France.Sophie Kurkdjian is an assistant professor at the American University of Paris, France.

A coherent, fresh and fascinating study by an impressive, international group of researchers … Because of its international base, the high quality of the research manifested by its 19 contributors, and the sensitive structure set in pace by its editors, this book marks another important step in the current positive and exciting development in dress and fashion history publications.

• Lists of FiguresList of ContributorsAcknowledgements, Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie KurkdjianNotes on TranslationTimelineIntroduction, Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie KurkdjianI. The Reconfiguration of the International Couture Industry1: Wartime Marketing of Parisian Haute Couture in the United States, 1914-1917Mary Lynn Stewart2: Boué Sœurs, “Compelled by the War”Waleria Dorogova3: “Gladdening the hearts of warriors:” the relationship between Lucile’s romantic fashions and morale in World War IGeorgina Ripley4: Die Kriegskrinoline - A Feminine Fashion Between Past and FutureBirgit Haase5: Fashion in Belgium during the Great War and the Case of NorineNele Bernheim II. The Materiality of Wartime Fashion and Textile Industries6: Dressed to Quill: The Origin and Significance of the Feathered Showgirl in World War I ParisEmily Brayshaw7: Between Fashion and Folk: Dress Practices in Alsace during World War ISara Hume8: The Lace Industry in Belgium and France During the WarMarguerite Coppens 9: Industrial and Handmade Clothing Production in the Netherlands, a Neutral Country during First World WarMarta Kargól10: Wartime Fabrics in the Historical Archives of Como Weavers and in the Collections of the Fondazione Antonio RattiMargherita Rosina III. Problematic Uniforms: Male and Female Experiences and Second-Hand Trade Networks11: “Breeched, Booted, and Cropped:” a dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain’s Women’s Land Army, 1917-1919Amy de la Haye 12: The French Home Front in 1914-1918: An Investigation of Female WorkwearJérémie Brucker13: Rushing to Suit Up: French Aviation’s Adjustment to Wartime Uniforms, 1914-1916Guillaume de Syon14: The Spoils of War: Use and Transformations of Second-Hand Uniforms during theFirst World War in FranceManuel CharpyIV. Fashion in Print: Questions of National Fashion and Gender15: The Gentleman Turned “Enemy:” Men’s Fashion in the Hungarian Press, 1914-1918Zsolt Mészáros 16: The Politics of Fashion: German Fashion (Writings) in Times of WarBurcu Dogramaci17: The Italian Fashion Magazine Margherita: the War, Women, and the Call for a “Moda Italiana,” 1914-1918Enrica Morini 18: Le Flambeau’s Fashion Discourse during the First World War: Towards a Retrograde Femininity?Nigel Lezama19: Is Beauty Useless? Fashion, Gender, and British Wartime Society in Punch Magazine, 1915Andréa Kollnitz Index

Maude Bass-Krueger is a professor in the department of Art History, Theatre, and Music Studies at the University of Ghent, Belgium.Hayley Edwards-Dujardin is an independent scholar and editor based in Paris, France.Sophie Kurkdjian is an assistant professor at the American University of Paris, France.

A coherent, fresh and fascinating study by an impressive, international group of researchers … Because of its international base, the high quality of the research manifested by its 19 contributors, and the sensitive structure set in pace by its editors, this book marks another important step in the current positive and exciting development in dress and fashion history publications.

• Lists of FiguresList of ContributorsAcknowledgements, Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie KurkdjianNotes on TranslationTimelineIntroduction, Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie KurkdjianI. The Reconfiguration of the International Couture Industry1: Wartime Marketing of Parisian Haute Couture in the United States, 1914-1917Mary Lynn Stewart2: Boué Sœurs, “Compelled by the War”Waleria Dorogova3: “Gladdening the hearts of warriors:” the relationship between Lucile’s romantic fashions and morale in World War IGeorgina Ripley4: Die Kriegskrinoline - A Feminine Fashion Between Past and FutureBirgit Haase5: Fashion in Belgium during the Great War and the Case of NorineNele Bernheim II. The Materiality of Wartime Fashion and Textile Industries6: Dressed to Quill: The Origin and Significance of the Feathered Showgirl in World War I ParisEmily Brayshaw7: Between Fashion and Folk: Dress Practices in Alsace during World War ISara Hume8: The Lace Industry in Belgium and France During the WarMarguerite Coppens 9: Industrial and Handmade Clothing Production in the Netherlands, a Neutral Country during First World WarMarta Kargól10: Wartime Fabrics in the Historical Archives of Como Weavers and in the Collections of the Fondazione Antonio RattiMargherita Rosina III. Problematic Uniforms: Male and Female Experiences and Second-Hand Trade Networks11: “Breeched, Booted, and Cropped:” a dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain’s Women’s Land Army, 1917-1919Amy de la Haye 12: The French Home Front in 1914-1918: An Investigation of Female WorkwearJérémie Brucker13: Rushing to Suit Up: French Aviation’s Adjustment to Wartime Uniforms, 1914-1916Guillaume de Syon14: The Spoils of War: Use and Transformations of Second-Hand Uniforms during theFirst World War in FranceManuel CharpyIV. Fashion in Print: Questions of National Fashion and Gender15: The Gentleman Turned “Enemy:” Men’s Fashion in the Hungarian Press, 1914-1918Zsolt Mészáros 16: The Politics of Fashion: German Fashion (Writings) in Times of WarBurcu Dogramaci17: The Italian Fashion Magazine Margherita: the War, Women, and the Call for a “Moda Italiana,” 1914-1918Enrica Morini 18: Le Flambeau’s Fashion Discourse during the First World War: Towards a Retrograde Femininity?Nigel Lezama19: Is Beauty Useless? Fashion, Gender, and British Wartime Society in Punch Magazine, 1915Andréa Kollnitz Index

Maude Bass-Krueger is a professor in the department of Art History, Theatre, and Music Studies at the University of Ghent, Belgium.Hayley Edwards-Dujardin is an independent scholar and editor based in Paris, France.Sophie Kurkdjian is an assistant professor at the American University of Paris, France.

A coherent, fresh and fascinating study by an impressive, international group of researchers … Because of its international base, the high quality of the research manifested by its 19 contributors, and the sensitive structure set in pace by its editors, this book marks another important step in the current positive and exciting development in dress and fashion history publications.

• Lists of FiguresList of ContributorsAcknowledgements, Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie KurkdjianNotes on TranslationTimelineIntroduction, Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie KurkdjianI. The Reconfiguration of the International Couture Industry1: Wartime Marketing of Parisian Haute Couture in the United States, 1914-1917Mary Lynn Stewart2: Boué Sœurs, “Compelled by the War”Waleria Dorogova3: “Gladdening the hearts of warriors:” the relationship between Lucile’s romantic fashions and morale in World War IGeorgina Ripley4: Die Kriegskrinoline - A Feminine Fashion Between Past and FutureBirgit Haase5: Fashion in Belgium during the Great War and the Case of NorineNele Bernheim II. The Materiality of Wartime Fashion and Textile Industries6: Dressed to Quill: The Origin and Significance of the Feathered Showgirl in World War I ParisEmily Brayshaw7: Between Fashion and Folk: Dress Practices in Alsace during World War ISara Hume8: The Lace Industry in Belgium and France During the WarMarguerite Coppens 9: Industrial and Handmade Clothing Production in the Netherlands, a Neutral Country during First World WarMarta Kargól10: Wartime Fabrics in the Historical Archives of Como Weavers and in the Collections of the Fondazione Antonio RattiMargherita Rosina III. Problematic Uniforms: Male and Female Experiences and Second-Hand Trade Networks11: “Breeched, Booted, and Cropped:” a dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain’s Women’s Land Army, 1917-1919Amy de la Haye 12: The French Home Front in 1914-1918: An Investigation of Female WorkwearJérémie Brucker13: Rushing to Suit Up: French Aviation’s Adjustment to Wartime Uniforms, 1914-1916Guillaume de Syon14: The Spoils of War: Use and Transformations of Second-Hand Uniforms during theFirst World War in FranceManuel CharpyIV. Fashion in Print: Questions of National Fashion and Gender15: The Gentleman Turned “Enemy:” Men’s Fashion in the Hungarian Press, 1914-1918Zsolt Mészáros 16: The Politics of Fashion: German Fashion (Writings) in Times of WarBurcu Dogramaci17: The Italian Fashion Magazine Margherita: the War, Women, and the Call for a “Moda Italiana,” 1914-1918Enrica Morini 18: Le Flambeau’s Fashion Discourse during the First World War: Towards a Retrograde Femininity?Nigel Lezama19: Is Beauty Useless? Fashion, Gender, and British Wartime Society in Punch Magazine, 1915Andréa Kollnitz Index