Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting

Sarah Veblen is a custom fashion designer who focuses on creating clothing for her clientele and on teaching and writing to promote the craft of garment-making. For more than 25 years, Sarah has been designing and making clothing for her private clientele, specializing in fit, innovative pattern design, and quality construction. Her focus is on helping women create a wardrobe that is comfortable and compatible with their lifestyle. Dedicated to promoting sewing at all levels, Sarah enjoys immersing herself into her students’ learning process. She teaches in her studio and other classroom venues, as well as online through PatternReview.com. She is also a frequent guest lecturer and regularly holds workshops for sewing groups and organizations across the country. Sarah has authored many articles and publications on sewing and design, including her books First Time Garment Fitting and The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting and writes her own blog. She has also made a series of instructional fitting DVDs, produced by Threads magazine, on skirt and bodice fitting and on making stylistic changes to a pattern. Sarah has a Certificate in Fashion Design from Baltimore City Community College and a BA from Stanford University. She is an active member of both the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals (ASDP) and the American Sewing Guild (ASG). She lives in Phoenix, Maryland. See more of her work at sarahveblen.com.

• IntroductionLaying the FoundationDeveloping a Solid Approach to FittingWhy Fitting is ComplicatedEach Individual is UniquePattern and Fitting BasicsHow Patterns are DevelopedFinding Your Way Around a PatternGarment Silhouettes and EaseChoosing a Pattern SizeTools for Pattern Work and FittingThe Interrelationship Between Patterns and FittingOverview of the Fitting ProcessRecognizing Fitting IssuesA Framework for FittingThe Fitting AxisThe Horizontal Balance LineFundamentals of Fitting MuslinsLearning to LookThe Body as “Volume”Fitting Others and YourselfWhat to Wear for a FittingPreparing the Test Muslin for a FittingClipping and Marking During a FittingPinningKeeping the Muslin BalancedFitting OrderFitting TipsAssessing the FitFundamentals of Altering PatternsGlossary of Patternmaking TermsMaking Flat Pattern AdjustmentsTransferring Muslin Markings to the PatternBlending Seams, Using the Rulers, and Adding Seam AllowancesLengthening and Shortening Patterns, and Grainline ArrowsWalking and Truing a PatternPlacing and Creating NotchesControlling Patterns with Built-in EaseTruing Difficult SeamsMoving the Placement of a SeamMoving a Dart to a New LocationTruing Dart LegsScaling Patterns Up and DownWorking in an Efficient OrderDeveloping your AbilityThe Process of Fitting GarmentsSkirtBodice with DartsBodice with Shoulder Princess LineJacket with Side Panel with Set-in SleeveTunic with Armscye Princess LineBodice with Raglan SleeveFitting Solutions for Body Types and Related Pattern AlterationsBustBackSidesShoulder Line and NeckSet-in SleevesRaglan SleevesWaist and HipsFitting PantsUnderstanding Body Mass and Pants VolumeFine-tuning the FitThe Process of Fitting PantsBody Type ExamplesTypical Pants Pattern AlterationsGoing to the Next LevelCorrecting Pattern Elements Affected by Fitting ChangesWaistbandsFacingsCollarsLiningsGet CreativeUsing Style Lines to Create Pleasing ProportionsDart EquivalentsCollar VariationsCuffs and Sleeve HemsAbout the AuthorIndex