David Page Coffin, a former editor at Threads magazine, is the author of Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing (Taunton Press, 1998). He has conducted sewing and tailoring workshops throughout the United States, Canada, and the United Kingdom. David has also been a frequent guest host on several online sewing forums and has hosted live chats on PatternReview.com. He has appeared on Sandra Betzina\u2019s HGTV sewing program, and his instructional videos have been broadcast on YouTube.com and have received great reviews on ThreadBanger.com, PatternReview.com, and other sewing sites. David hosts http://makingtrouserswithdpc.blogspot.com/ and http://myvirtualworkshop.blogspot.com. He lives with his wife, Ellen, in Brookings, Oregon.

"...an immersion course in design, with a particularly in-depth look at collars...David doesn't tell you how to sew a shirt from start to finish; you can buy a pattern to do that. But if you start with a pattern and apply his design inspirations, you'll soon be a shirt geek, too."

• Introduction 6Chapter 1 Block Logic 12What is a Block? 13Shirt Block Categories 13Where to Get Your Block(s) 14Blocks within Blocks 14Fitting 18Drafting 19Draping 20        Copying a Shirt 22General Pattern Skills 24Tools 24Digital Tools 26Featured Designer: Diane Ericson 28Resources 30Chapter 2 Skills and Structures 32 Sewing without Pins 34Stitching Seams 36Turn a Better Point 38Placket Origami 41Convertible Collar Options 44Featured Designer: Morgan Meredith 46Resources 48Chapter 3 The Dress (or Shaped) Shirt Block 50 The Dress Shirt 51Featured Garment: Vintage Arrow Evening Dress Shirt 52Featured Technique: Stand or Band Draping 56Featured Details and Patterns: Dress Collar Geometry 58Dress Collar Profiles: Equestrian Collars (64); Wing Collars (66); Detachable Collars (68); Roger Gray Men’s & Turnbull & Asser Women’s (70)Featured Designer: Anna Gorbatenko 74Resources 76Chapter 4 The Sport/Work (or Loose-Fitting) Shirt Block 82 The Sport Shirt 83Featured Garment: Cubavera Linen Guayabera 84Featured Patterns: Camp or Convertible Collars (86); V-Neck Convertible Collars (92); One-Piece V-Neck Collars (94)Featured Designer: Michael Cepress 96Featured Patterns: Combination, or Italian, Collars (98); Combination Collar Shape Play (108)Featured Garment: Columbia Fishing/Sunblock Shirt 112Featured Garment: Smith & Hawken Canvas Field Shirt 114Featured Garment: Smith & Hawken Poplin Field Smock 116Featured Details: More Pocket and Cuff Ideas 118Resources 120Chapter 5 The Knit (or Stretch Fabric) Shirt Block 122 Featured Garment: Da Vinci Polyester Knit Combo 124Featured Technique: Polo Collar and Placket Options 126Featured Technique: Quilting Fleece 128Featured Technique: More Fleece Finishes 130Resources 132Chapter 6 The Folk (or Rectangular) Shirt Block 134 Featured Garment: Swanndri Wool Bush Shirt 136Featured Garment: Smock Shop Crew Neck Smock 138Featured Garment: Empire Wool & Canvas Boreal Shirt 140Featured Technique: Type-1 Placket Closures 142Featured Designer: Kayla Kennington 144Resources 146Chapter 7 The Shirt-Jacket (or Oversized) Block 148 Featured Garment: Pendleton Men’s 49er 150Featured Patterns: Convertible Jacket Collars (154); Trench Collars (158)Featured Garment: Filson Double Mackinaw Cruiser 160Featured Patterns: Mackinaw Collars (162); Shawl Collars (164)Featured Technique: More Layering Options 168Resources 170Acknowledgments 172About the Author 172Index 173

David Page Coffin, a former editor at Threads magazine, is the author of Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing (Taunton Press, 1998). He has conducted sewing and tailoring workshops throughout the United States, Canada, and the United Kingdom. David has also been a frequent guest host on several online sewing forums and has hosted live chats on PatternReview.com. He has appeared on Sandra Betzina\u2019s HGTV sewing program, and his instructional videos have been broadcast on YouTube.com and have received great reviews on ThreadBanger.com, PatternReview.com, and other sewing sites. David hosts http://makingtrouserswithdpc.blogspot.com/ and http://myvirtualworkshop.blogspot.com. He lives with his wife, Ellen, in Brookings, Oregon.

"...an immersion course in design, with a particularly in-depth look at collars...David doesn't tell you how to sew a shirt from start to finish; you can buy a pattern to do that. But if you start with a pattern and apply his design inspirations, you'll soon be a shirt geek, too."

• Introduction 6Chapter 1 Block Logic 12What is a Block? 13Shirt Block Categories 13Where to Get Your Block(s) 14Blocks within Blocks 14Fitting 18Drafting 19Draping 20        Copying a Shirt 22General Pattern Skills 24Tools 24Digital Tools 26Featured Designer: Diane Ericson 28Resources 30Chapter 2 Skills and Structures 32 Sewing without Pins 34Stitching Seams 36Turn a Better Point 38Placket Origami 41Convertible Collar Options 44Featured Designer: Morgan Meredith 46Resources 48Chapter 3 The Dress (or Shaped) Shirt Block 50 The Dress Shirt 51Featured Garment: Vintage Arrow Evening Dress Shirt 52Featured Technique: Stand or Band Draping 56Featured Details and Patterns: Dress Collar Geometry 58Dress Collar Profiles: Equestrian Collars (64); Wing Collars (66); Detachable Collars (68); Roger Gray Men’s & Turnbull & Asser Women’s (70)Featured Designer: Anna Gorbatenko 74Resources 76Chapter 4 The Sport/Work (or Loose-Fitting) Shirt Block 82 The Sport Shirt 83Featured Garment: Cubavera Linen Guayabera 84Featured Patterns: Camp or Convertible Collars (86); V-Neck Convertible Collars (92); One-Piece V-Neck Collars (94)Featured Designer: Michael Cepress 96Featured Patterns: Combination, or Italian, Collars (98); Combination Collar Shape Play (108)Featured Garment: Columbia Fishing/Sunblock Shirt 112Featured Garment: Smith & Hawken Canvas Field Shirt 114Featured Garment: Smith & Hawken Poplin Field Smock 116Featured Details: More Pocket and Cuff Ideas 118Resources 120Chapter 5 The Knit (or Stretch Fabric) Shirt Block 122 Featured Garment: Da Vinci Polyester Knit Combo 124Featured Technique: Polo Collar and Placket Options 126Featured Technique: Quilting Fleece 128Featured Technique: More Fleece Finishes 130Resources 132Chapter 6 The Folk (or Rectangular) Shirt Block 134 Featured Garment: Swanndri Wool Bush Shirt 136Featured Garment: Smock Shop Crew Neck Smock 138Featured Garment: Empire Wool & Canvas Boreal Shirt 140Featured Technique: Type-1 Placket Closures 142Featured Designer: Kayla Kennington 144Resources 146Chapter 7 The Shirt-Jacket (or Oversized) Block 148 Featured Garment: Pendleton Men’s 49er 150Featured Patterns: Convertible Jacket Collars (154); Trench Collars (158)Featured Garment: Filson Double Mackinaw Cruiser 160Featured Patterns: Mackinaw Collars (162); Shawl Collars (164)Featured Technique: More Layering Options 168Resources 170Acknowledgments 172About the Author 172Index 173

David Page Coffin, a former editor at Threads magazine, is the author of Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing (Taunton Press, 1998). He has conducted sewing and tailoring workshops throughout the United States, Canada, and the United Kingdom. David has also been a frequent guest host on several online sewing forums and has hosted live chats on PatternReview.com. He has appeared on Sandra Betzina\u2019s HGTV sewing program, and his instructional videos have been broadcast on YouTube.com and have received great reviews on ThreadBanger.com, PatternReview.com, and other sewing sites. David hosts http://makingtrouserswithdpc.blogspot.com/ and http://myvirtualworkshop.blogspot.com. He lives with his wife, Ellen, in Brookings, Oregon.

"...an immersion course in design, with a particularly in-depth look at collars...David doesn't tell you how to sew a shirt from start to finish; you can buy a pattern to do that. But if you start with a pattern and apply his design inspirations, you'll soon be a shirt geek, too."

• Introduction 6Chapter 1 Block Logic 12What is a Block? 13Shirt Block Categories 13Where to Get Your Block(s) 14Blocks within Blocks 14Fitting 18Drafting 19Draping 20        Copying a Shirt 22General Pattern Skills 24Tools 24Digital Tools 26Featured Designer: Diane Ericson 28Resources 30Chapter 2 Skills and Structures 32 Sewing without Pins 34Stitching Seams 36Turn a Better Point 38Placket Origami 41Convertible Collar Options 44Featured Designer: Morgan Meredith 46Resources 48Chapter 3 The Dress (or Shaped) Shirt Block 50 The Dress Shirt 51Featured Garment: Vintage Arrow Evening Dress Shirt 52Featured Technique: Stand or Band Draping 56Featured Details and Patterns: Dress Collar Geometry 58Dress Collar Profiles: Equestrian Collars (64); Wing Collars (66); Detachable Collars (68); Roger Gray Men’s & Turnbull & Asser Women’s (70)Featured Designer: Anna Gorbatenko 74Resources 76Chapter 4 The Sport/Work (or Loose-Fitting) Shirt Block 82 The Sport Shirt 83Featured Garment: Cubavera Linen Guayabera 84Featured Patterns: Camp or Convertible Collars (86); V-Neck Convertible Collars (92); One-Piece V-Neck Collars (94)Featured Designer: Michael Cepress 96Featured Patterns: Combination, or Italian, Collars (98); Combination Collar Shape Play (108)Featured Garment: Columbia Fishing/Sunblock Shirt 112Featured Garment: Smith & Hawken Canvas Field Shirt 114Featured Garment: Smith & Hawken Poplin Field Smock 116Featured Details: More Pocket and Cuff Ideas 118Resources 120Chapter 5 The Knit (or Stretch Fabric) Shirt Block 122 Featured Garment: Da Vinci Polyester Knit Combo 124Featured Technique: Polo Collar and Placket Options 126Featured Technique: Quilting Fleece 128Featured Technique: More Fleece Finishes 130Resources 132Chapter 6 The Folk (or Rectangular) Shirt Block 134 Featured Garment: Swanndri Wool Bush Shirt 136Featured Garment: Smock Shop Crew Neck Smock 138Featured Garment: Empire Wool & Canvas Boreal Shirt 140Featured Technique: Type-1 Placket Closures 142Featured Designer: Kayla Kennington 144Resources 146Chapter 7 The Shirt-Jacket (or Oversized) Block 148 Featured Garment: Pendleton Men’s 49er 150Featured Patterns: Convertible Jacket Collars (154); Trench Collars (158)Featured Garment: Filson Double Mackinaw Cruiser 160Featured Patterns: Mackinaw Collars (162); Shawl Collars (164)Featured Technique: More Layering Options 168Resources 170Acknowledgments 172About the Author 172Index 173