Albania

Gillian Gloyer studied ancient languages at Wadham College, Oxford. Her first contact with Albania was in the 1980s, when she gazed from the deck of a ferry at the pristine beaches of the almost-closed country. From 1998 to 2002, she lived in Tirana, directing a long-term training programme with political parties. Her training schedule took her all over the country and gave her the chance to discover Albania's astonishingly rich history and culture, then almost unknown outside the country. She learned the language while she was working there and speaks it well. Although now based in Edinburgh, Gillian visits Albania several times a year for both work and pleasure. She has participated in international election observation missions there and leads tour groups around the country's cultural and historical sites for several UK-based tour operators. She is a keen hillwalker and enjoys hiking in Albania's wildernesses.

• Introduction PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION Chapter 1 Background Information Geography and climate, Natural history and conservation, History, Government and politics, Economy, Ethnic groups, Language, Religion, Education, Culture Chapter 2 Practical Information When to visit, Highlights, Suggested itineraries, Tour operators, Red tape, Getting there and away, Health, Safety, Women travellers, Black and minority ethnic travellers, Lesbian and gay travellers, Travellers with a disability, Travelling with children, What to take, Money, Budgeting, Getting around, Accommodation, Eatingand drinking, Public holidays, Shopping, Arts and entertainment, Photography, Media and communications, Albanian time and business, Cultural etiquette, Travelling positively PART TWO THE GUIDE Chapter 3 Tirana Getting there and away, Getting around, Tourist information, Where to stay, Where to eat, Entertainment and nightlife, Shopping, Other practicalities, What to see and do Chapter 4 Central Albania Getting there and away, Durresi, Bashtova Castle, Divjaka-Karavasta National Park, Elbasani, Pellumbasi, Kruja Chapter 5 The North Getting there and away, Shkodra, Puka, Lezha, Mati, Mirdita, The Lura Lakes 150, Kukesi, Tropoja, The Big Highlands, Peshkopia Chapter 6 The Southeast Getting there and away, Korca, Voskopoja, Prehistoric sites, Pogradeci, Librazhdi, Shebenik-Jabllanica National Park, The Prespa Lakes, The Gramoz Mountains, Permeti Chapter 7 The Southwest Getting there and away, Saranda, Butrint, The Riviera, Vlora, Fieri, Byllis, Berati, Gjirokastra Appendix 1 Language Appendix 2 Further Information Index