Since 1983 people out walking in sunny climes have been relying on our ‘little blue books’ to follow the trails – and to make friends with other walkers. Sunflower started by exploring the Atlantic Islands, but has branched out: we still love islands – from the Azores to Zakynthos – but we cover many mainland destinations too, like land-locked Switzerland and the coastal Basque Country. All our guides have the familiar mix of car tours, walks and picnics. More recently, we introduced restaurants and recipes in our ‘Walk & Eat’ series, which explores around cities from Stockholm to Avignon.

A remarkable paperback that may have done more than any other to change the way its readers spend their holidays… this book single-handedly turned levada-walking into something approaching a craze

• Preface 5The levadas 6Country code; Advice for walkers 8Getting about 9Plan of Funchal city centre 10-11with city exits and bus departure pointsPicnics and short walks 12Cable cars 19Touring 201 MADEIRA NORTH AND SOUTH 222 EASTERN MADEIRA’S GENTLE CHARMS 263 THE CORRAL AND THE CAPE 304 MOUNTAINS AND MORE MOUNTAINS! 335 PORTO MONIZ AND THE PAÚL DA SERRA 386 THE SUNNY SOUTHWEST COAST 42Walking 46Grading, waymarking, maps, GPS 46Where to stay 47Weather 48What to take 49Portuguese for walkers 50Nuisances 51Organisation of the walks 52FUNCHAL AND THE SOUTHEAST1 The Socorridos Valley 532 From the Poço da Neve to Barreira 573 From the Eira do Serrado to Curral 604 Boca da Corrida • Pico Grande • Encumeada 625 Fontes • Chão dos Terreiros • Trompica • Fontes 666 Levada do Norte: from Estreito de Câmara de Lobos to Barreiras 697 Funchal to Câmara de Lobos promenade 748 Levada dos Tornos: from Curral dos Romeiros to the Sítio das Quatro Estradas 779 Santo da Serra • Levada Nova • Sítio das Quatro Estradas 8610 Levada da Serra: from Choupana to Portela 8811 Levada do Caniçal: from Maroços to the Caniçal tunnel 9212 Pico do Facho — Caniçal circuit 9513 Ponta de São Lourenço 98THE NORTHEAST AND THE GREAT PEAKS14 North coast path: Caniçal tunnel • Boca do Risco • Porto da Cruz 10215 From Portela to Porto da Cruz 10716 Cruz • Levada do Castelejo • Cruz 10817 Penha de Águia 11018 Santana • São Jorge • Vigia 11219 Pico do Arieiro • Pico Ruivo • Achada do Teixeira 11620 Achada do Teixeira • Pico Ruivo • Torrinhas • Encumeada 12121 Pico das Pedras • Cova da Roda • Cruzinhas 12522 Queimadas • Levada do Caldeirão Verde • Santana 12823 Queimadas • Caldeirão do Inferno • Queimadas 13224 Fajã da Nogueira 13525 Levada do Furado: from Ribeiro Frio to Lamaceiros and Portela 13926 Circuit around Santana 14327 Two walks from Boaventura 14628 Queimadas • Vale da Lapa • Ilha de São Jorge 149THE WEST AND NORTHWEST29 Levada da Fajã do Rodrigues 15130 Lombada da Ponta do Sol • Levada Nova • Ribeira da Tábua • Ribeira Brava 15331 Encumeada • Levada do Lombo do Mouro • Ribeira Brava 15732 Folhadal and the Norte and Rabaças levadas 15933 Bica da Cana • Levada da Serra • Pináculo • Bica da Cana 16234 Circuit around Ponta do Pargo 16435 Levada do Paúl and Levada da Bica da Cana 16636 Fanal circuit 17237 Rabaçal’s levadas 17438 Levada do Alecrím 17939 Pico Ruivo do Paúl 18140 From Prazeres to Paúl do Mar 18241 Levada Calheta–Ponta do Pargo 18442 Levada da Central da Ribeira da Janela 18743 From Santa to Porto Moniz 190Bus timetables 192Index (of geographical names) 197Pronunciation/translation of some index entries 200Touring map inside back cover

Since 1983 people out walking in sunny climes have been relying on our ‘little blue books’ to follow the trails – and to make friends with other walkers. Sunflower started by exploring the Atlantic Islands, but has branched out: we still love islands – from the Azores to Zakynthos – but we cover many mainland destinations too, like land-locked Switzerland and the coastal Basque Country. All our guides have the familiar mix of car tours, walks and picnics. More recently, we introduced restaurants and recipes in our ‘Walk & Eat’ series, which explores around cities from Stockholm to Avignon.

A remarkable paperback that may have done more than any other to change the way its readers spend their holidays… this book single-handedly turned levada-walking into something approaching a craze

• Preface 5The levadas 6Country code; Advice for walkers 8Getting about 9Plan of Funchal city centre 10-11with city exits and bus departure pointsPicnics and short walks 12Cable cars 19Touring 201 MADEIRA NORTH AND SOUTH 222 EASTERN MADEIRA’S GENTLE CHARMS 263 THE CORRAL AND THE CAPE 304 MOUNTAINS AND MORE MOUNTAINS! 335 PORTO MONIZ AND THE PAÚL DA SERRA 386 THE SUNNY SOUTHWEST COAST 42Walking 46Grading, waymarking, maps, GPS 46Where to stay 47Weather 48What to take 49Portuguese for walkers 50Nuisances 51Organisation of the walks 52FUNCHAL AND THE SOUTHEAST1 The Socorridos Valley 532 From the Poço da Neve to Barreira 573 From the Eira do Serrado to Curral 604 Boca da Corrida • Pico Grande • Encumeada 625 Fontes • Chão dos Terreiros • Trompica • Fontes 666 Levada do Norte: from Estreito de Câmara de Lobos to Barreiras 697 Funchal to Câmara de Lobos promenade 748 Levada dos Tornos: from Curral dos Romeiros to the Sítio das Quatro Estradas 779 Santo da Serra • Levada Nova • Sítio das Quatro Estradas 8610 Levada da Serra: from Choupana to Portela 8811 Levada do Caniçal: from Maroços to the Caniçal tunnel 9212 Pico do Facho — Caniçal circuit 9513 Ponta de São Lourenço 98THE NORTHEAST AND THE GREAT PEAKS14 North coast path: Caniçal tunnel • Boca do Risco • Porto da Cruz 10215 From Portela to Porto da Cruz 10716 Cruz • Levada do Castelejo • Cruz 10817 Penha de Águia 11018 Santana • São Jorge • Vigia 11219 Pico do Arieiro • Pico Ruivo • Achada do Teixeira 11620 Achada do Teixeira • Pico Ruivo • Torrinhas • Encumeada 12121 Pico das Pedras • Cova da Roda • Cruzinhas 12522 Queimadas • Levada do Caldeirão Verde • Santana 12823 Queimadas • Caldeirão do Inferno • Queimadas 13224 Fajã da Nogueira 13525 Levada do Furado: from Ribeiro Frio to Lamaceiros and Portela 13926 Circuit around Santana 14327 Two walks from Boaventura 14628 Queimadas • Vale da Lapa • Ilha de São Jorge 149THE WEST AND NORTHWEST29 Levada da Fajã do Rodrigues 15130 Lombada da Ponta do Sol • Levada Nova • Ribeira da Tábua • Ribeira Brava 15331 Encumeada • Levada do Lombo do Mouro • Ribeira Brava 15732 Folhadal and the Norte and Rabaças levadas 15933 Bica da Cana • Levada da Serra • Pináculo • Bica da Cana 16234 Circuit around Ponta do Pargo 16435 Levada do Paúl and Levada da Bica da Cana 16636 Fanal circuit 17237 Rabaçal’s levadas 17438 Levada do Alecrím 17939 Pico Ruivo do Paúl 18140 From Prazeres to Paúl do Mar 18241 Levada Calheta–Ponta do Pargo 18442 Levada da Central da Ribeira da Janela 18743 From Santa to Porto Moniz 190Bus timetables 192Index (of geographical names) 197Pronunciation/translation of some index entries 200Touring map inside back cover

Since 1983 people out walking in sunny climes have been relying on our ‘little blue books’ to follow the trails – and to make friends with other walkers. Sunflower started by exploring the Atlantic Islands, but has branched out: we still love islands – from the Azores to Zakynthos – but we cover many mainland destinations too, like land-locked Switzerland and the coastal Basque Country. All our guides have the familiar mix of car tours, walks and picnics. More recently, we introduced restaurants and recipes in our ‘Walk & Eat’ series, which explores around cities from Stockholm to Avignon.

A remarkable paperback that may have done more than any other to change the way its readers spend their holidays… this book single-handedly turned levada-walking into something approaching a craze

• Preface 5The levadas 6Country code; Advice for walkers 8Getting about 9Plan of Funchal city centre 10-11with city exits and bus departure pointsPicnics and short walks 12Cable cars 19Touring 201 MADEIRA NORTH AND SOUTH 222 EASTERN MADEIRA’S GENTLE CHARMS 263 THE CORRAL AND THE CAPE 304 MOUNTAINS AND MORE MOUNTAINS! 335 PORTO MONIZ AND THE PAÚL DA SERRA 386 THE SUNNY SOUTHWEST COAST 42Walking 46Grading, waymarking, maps, GPS 46Where to stay 47Weather 48What to take 49Portuguese for walkers 50Nuisances 51Organisation of the walks 52FUNCHAL AND THE SOUTHEAST1 The Socorridos Valley 532 From the Poço da Neve to Barreira 573 From the Eira do Serrado to Curral 604 Boca da Corrida • Pico Grande • Encumeada 625 Fontes • Chão dos Terreiros • Trompica • Fontes 666 Levada do Norte: from Estreito de Câmara de Lobos to Barreiras 697 Funchal to Câmara de Lobos promenade 748 Levada dos Tornos: from Curral dos Romeiros to the Sítio das Quatro Estradas 779 Santo da Serra • Levada Nova • Sítio das Quatro Estradas 8610 Levada da Serra: from Choupana to Portela 8811 Levada do Caniçal: from Maroços to the Caniçal tunnel 9212 Pico do Facho — Caniçal circuit 9513 Ponta de São Lourenço 98THE NORTHEAST AND THE GREAT PEAKS14 North coast path: Caniçal tunnel • Boca do Risco • Porto da Cruz 10215 From Portela to Porto da Cruz 10716 Cruz • Levada do Castelejo • Cruz 10817 Penha de Águia 11018 Santana • São Jorge • Vigia 11219 Pico do Arieiro • Pico Ruivo • Achada do Teixeira 11620 Achada do Teixeira • Pico Ruivo • Torrinhas • Encumeada 12121 Pico das Pedras • Cova da Roda • Cruzinhas 12522 Queimadas • Levada do Caldeirão Verde • Santana 12823 Queimadas • Caldeirão do Inferno • Queimadas 13224 Fajã da Nogueira 13525 Levada do Furado: from Ribeiro Frio to Lamaceiros and Portela 13926 Circuit around Santana 14327 Two walks from Boaventura 14628 Queimadas • Vale da Lapa • Ilha de São Jorge 149THE WEST AND NORTHWEST29 Levada da Fajã do Rodrigues 15130 Lombada da Ponta do Sol • Levada Nova • Ribeira da Tábua • Ribeira Brava 15331 Encumeada • Levada do Lombo do Mouro • Ribeira Brava 15732 Folhadal and the Norte and Rabaças levadas 15933 Bica da Cana • Levada da Serra • Pináculo • Bica da Cana 16234 Circuit around Ponta do Pargo 16435 Levada do Paúl and Levada da Bica da Cana 16636 Fanal circuit 17237 Rabaçal’s levadas 17438 Levada do Alecrím 17939 Pico Ruivo do Paúl 18140 From Prazeres to Paúl do Mar 18241 Levada Calheta–Ponta do Pargo 18442 Levada da Central da Ribeira da Janela 18743 From Santa to Porto Moniz 190Bus timetables 192Index (of geographical names) 197Pronunciation/translation of some index entries 200Touring map inside back cover