Colin Gale is Head of the School of Textiles and Course Director of the MA Textile, Fashion and Surface Design course, University of Central England, Birmingham. Jasbir Kaur is Lecturer in Textiles, Fashion and Three Dimensional Design, Institute of Art and Design, University of Central England, Birmingham.

'Although the authors planned this book as a text/reference book, I recommend reading every page ... a valuable authority that provides an historical and global view of the past, present, and future of textiles.' Handwoven 'Essential reading for anyone considering a career in textiles.' Embroidery Magazine 'The Textile book takes a compelling and very broad look at a myriad of aspects of fabrics and the humans using them...the authors seem to have tapped not only solid history, but a good deal of the most up-to-date information, including 'smart fabrics'...this subject, and its treatment in this book, is food for a lot of thought, discussion, and research.' Costume Journal 'Those studying textiles and the general public should find this book very useful.' Choice 'Upper division or graduate students as well as professionals in our field would certainly benefit from the content information of The Textile Book. More importantly, those in the textile community who read it, will be encouraged to engage in broad discourse that the subject deserves in order to better ensure the subject's future as an academic discipline.' Nancy Lyons, South Dakota State University

• Contents Preface vii Part I Overviews 1What is Textiles?1 This Book3 2The Cultural Place of Textiles7 Gentility and Gender7 The Inner Spirit13 Capitalism and Communism16 Lifestyle23 3Perceptions of Fabric30 New Fabrics, New Aesthetics31 Fundamental Skills and the Evolution of Textile Practice33 The Influence of Skill35 The Influence of Science and Engineering38 Re-evaluation42 Part II The Creative 4The Textile Designer45 Design Practice49 Global Comparisons of Textile Design53 Futures61 5The Designer-Maker63 The Origins of Designer-Makers66 Employment67 Market68 Business71 Case Study: Lindsay Bloxam75 Personal Issues76 Establishing a Business78 Selling Stuff80 The Broader View82 6The Craftsperson85 Comparing Makers89 The Importance of Process-Led Practice93 A Role in the Modern World94 The Appeal of the Handmade98 Supporting Organizations99 7The Textile Artist102 Textile Art, Craft or Design?104 The Reason of Textile Art108 Issues of Content111 Ownership115 Part III The Social and Industrial Context 8Global Textile Traditions119 Regional Exchanges120 Patronage123 Ritual, Symbolism and Stories125 Weave127 Embroidery129 Print and Dye131 Contemporary Uses of Traditional Textiles134 Recent Textile Traditions136 9Ecology139 Pollution, Politics and Ecology139 The Role of Organizations and Agencies143 Government Policies and Organizations148 Eco or Green Design153 Case Study: Corporate Environmental Policies157 10Industry161 The Industrial Story162 Power and Influence170 The Future174 11The Role of Trends and Forecasting180 The Textile Industries and Forecasting183 The Forecasting Gurus and their Roles188 Part IV Related Disciplines and Studies 12The Buyer194 The Buyers Role195 Issues Affecting Buying Decisions196 Buying Textiles and Design-Led Textile Products200 The Suppliers Concerns203 International Issues204 The Future207 13Journalism212 The Media Industry212 Lifestyle and Textile Journalism215 Courting Fame220 The Internet223 14Science226 A Scientific History227 The Basics230 The Science Design Gap233 The Stuff of Fiction236 Future Issues241 15Research245 Archaeology and Anthropology245 Textiles, Cultural Identity and the Culture Industry 250 Museums and Collections255 Contemporary Textiles and Critical Studies 259 Bibliography263 Index27

Colin Gale is Head of the School of Textiles and Course Director of the MA Textile, Fashion and Surface Design course, University of Central England, Birmingham. Jasbir Kaur is Lecturer in Textiles, Fashion and Three Dimensional Design, Institute of Art and Design, University of Central England, Birmingham.

'Although the authors planned this book as a text/reference book, I recommend reading every page ... a valuable authority that provides an historical and global view of the past, present, and future of textiles.' Handwoven 'Essential reading for anyone considering a career in textiles.' Embroidery Magazine 'The Textile book takes a compelling and very broad look at a myriad of aspects of fabrics and the humans using them...the authors seem to have tapped not only solid history, but a good deal of the most up-to-date information, including 'smart fabrics'...this subject, and its treatment in this book, is food for a lot of thought, discussion, and research.' Costume Journal 'Those studying textiles and the general public should find this book very useful.' Choice 'Upper division or graduate students as well as professionals in our field would certainly benefit from the content information of The Textile Book. More importantly, those in the textile community who read it, will be encouraged to engage in broad discourse that the subject deserves in order to better ensure the subject's future as an academic discipline.' Nancy Lyons, South Dakota State University

• Contents Preface vii Part I Overviews 1What is Textiles?1 This Book3 2The Cultural Place of Textiles7 Gentility and Gender7 The Inner Spirit13 Capitalism and Communism16 Lifestyle23 3Perceptions of Fabric30 New Fabrics, New Aesthetics31 Fundamental Skills and the Evolution of Textile Practice33 The Influence of Skill35 The Influence of Science and Engineering38 Re-evaluation42 Part II The Creative 4The Textile Designer45 Design Practice49 Global Comparisons of Textile Design53 Futures61 5The Designer-Maker63 The Origins of Designer-Makers66 Employment67 Market68 Business71 Case Study: Lindsay Bloxam75 Personal Issues76 Establishing a Business78 Selling Stuff80 The Broader View82 6The Craftsperson85 Comparing Makers89 The Importance of Process-Led Practice93 A Role in the Modern World94 The Appeal of the Handmade98 Supporting Organizations99 7The Textile Artist102 Textile Art, Craft or Design?104 The Reason of Textile Art108 Issues of Content111 Ownership115 Part III The Social and Industrial Context 8Global Textile Traditions119 Regional Exchanges120 Patronage123 Ritual, Symbolism and Stories125 Weave127 Embroidery129 Print and Dye131 Contemporary Uses of Traditional Textiles134 Recent Textile Traditions136 9Ecology139 Pollution, Politics and Ecology139 The Role of Organizations and Agencies143 Government Policies and Organizations148 Eco or Green Design153 Case Study: Corporate Environmental Policies157 10Industry161 The Industrial Story162 Power and Influence170 The Future174 11The Role of Trends and Forecasting180 The Textile Industries and Forecasting183 The Forecasting Gurus and their Roles188 Part IV Related Disciplines and Studies 12The Buyer194 The Buyers Role195 Issues Affecting Buying Decisions196 Buying Textiles and Design-Led Textile Products200 The Suppliers Concerns203 International Issues204 The Future207 13Journalism212 The Media Industry212 Lifestyle and Textile Journalism215 Courting Fame220 The Internet223 14Science226 A Scientific History227 The Basics230 The Science Design Gap233 The Stuff of Fiction236 Future Issues241 15Research245 Archaeology and Anthropology245 Textiles, Cultural Identity and the Culture Industry 250 Museums and Collections255 Contemporary Textiles and Critical Studies 259 Bibliography263 Index27

Colin Gale is Head of the School of Textiles and Course Director of the MA Textile, Fashion and Surface Design course, University of Central England, Birmingham. Jasbir Kaur is Lecturer in Textiles, Fashion and Three Dimensional Design, Institute of Art and Design, University of Central England, Birmingham.

'Although the authors planned this book as a text/reference book, I recommend reading every page ... a valuable authority that provides an historical and global view of the past, present, and future of textiles.' Handwoven 'Essential reading for anyone considering a career in textiles.' Embroidery Magazine 'The Textile book takes a compelling and very broad look at a myriad of aspects of fabrics and the humans using them...the authors seem to have tapped not only solid history, but a good deal of the most up-to-date information, including 'smart fabrics'...this subject, and its treatment in this book, is food for a lot of thought, discussion, and research.' Costume Journal 'Those studying textiles and the general public should find this book very useful.' Choice 'Upper division or graduate students as well as professionals in our field would certainly benefit from the content information of The Textile Book. More importantly, those in the textile community who read it, will be encouraged to engage in broad discourse that the subject deserves in order to better ensure the subject's future as an academic discipline.' Nancy Lyons, South Dakota State University

• Contents Preface vii Part I Overviews 1What is Textiles?1 This Book3 2The Cultural Place of Textiles7 Gentility and Gender7 The Inner Spirit13 Capitalism and Communism16 Lifestyle23 3Perceptions of Fabric30 New Fabrics, New Aesthetics31 Fundamental Skills and the Evolution of Textile Practice33 The Influence of Skill35 The Influence of Science and Engineering38 Re-evaluation42 Part II The Creative 4The Textile Designer45 Design Practice49 Global Comparisons of Textile Design53 Futures61 5The Designer-Maker63 The Origins of Designer-Makers66 Employment67 Market68 Business71 Case Study: Lindsay Bloxam75 Personal Issues76 Establishing a Business78 Selling Stuff80 The Broader View82 6The Craftsperson85 Comparing Makers89 The Importance of Process-Led Practice93 A Role in the Modern World94 The Appeal of the Handmade98 Supporting Organizations99 7The Textile Artist102 Textile Art, Craft or Design?104 The Reason of Textile Art108 Issues of Content111 Ownership115 Part III The Social and Industrial Context 8Global Textile Traditions119 Regional Exchanges120 Patronage123 Ritual, Symbolism and Stories125 Weave127 Embroidery129 Print and Dye131 Contemporary Uses of Traditional Textiles134 Recent Textile Traditions136 9Ecology139 Pollution, Politics and Ecology139 The Role of Organizations and Agencies143 Government Policies and Organizations148 Eco or Green Design153 Case Study: Corporate Environmental Policies157 10Industry161 The Industrial Story162 Power and Influence170 The Future174 11The Role of Trends and Forecasting180 The Textile Industries and Forecasting183 The Forecasting Gurus and their Roles188 Part IV Related Disciplines and Studies 12The Buyer194 The Buyers Role195 Issues Affecting Buying Decisions196 Buying Textiles and Design-Led Textile Products200 The Suppliers Concerns203 International Issues204 The Future207 13Journalism212 The Media Industry212 Lifestyle and Textile Journalism215 Courting Fame220 The Internet223 14Science226 A Scientific History227 The Basics230 The Science Design Gap233 The Stuff of Fiction236 Future Issues241 15Research245 Archaeology and Anthropology245 Textiles, Cultural Identity and the Culture Industry 250 Museums and Collections255 Contemporary Textiles and Critical Studies 259 Bibliography263 Index27