Troll Wall

Tony Howard grew up in the Chew Valley, at the northern tip of the Peak District. After starting climbing in 1953, Tony became well known in climbing circles for his new routes and his contribution to local guidebooks. He worked as an instructor in the early 1960s and qualified as a BMC Guide in 1965, the year he and his friends famously made the first ascent of Norway’s 1,000-metre Troll Wall. Tony was a founding partner of Troll Climbing Equipment, producing many innovative designs such as the world’s first commercial range of nuts, the first climbing ‘sit’ harnesses and the first sewn slings. He has guided and climbed all over the world, discovering new areas and making many first ascents. Tony is a regular contributor to outdoor magazines, and has written or contributed to guidebooks for the English Peak District, Norway, Oman, Morocco, Jordan and Palestine.

The book is a real page-turner as bit by bit Howard, John Amatt and Bill Tweedale push and push and push for the top, forever driven, forever barred by some new obstacle, the story always moving, devoid of any ego or bullshit. – Andy Kirkpatrick, The Alpine JournalIf you’ve not already done so, get hold and read – you’ll not find a more plainly exciting narrative in its genre. The midnight push for the top up the summit gully had me open-mouthed and breathless. Nothing written by Andy Cave, Andy Kirkpatrick, Mick Fowler or any other recent exponents of mountain writing – excellent though many of them are – comes close to the sheer edgy thrill of it. – Jim Perrin, Climber MagazineTroll Wall is a treasure for its close descriptions. Every uptake of slack and every piton pounded receive equal attention. Howard’s depictions of the strenuous toils of big-wall climbing are straightforward and honest, and more decorative for the times when the sun is shining and spirits are high. This finally released alpine epic is a chance to take in a tale from long ago and appreciate a true pioneer. – Nick Chambers, Rock & Ice MagazineWe can also recommend Troll Wall, Tony Howard’s gripping and previously untold story of the Rimmon Mountaineering Club’s 1965 ascent of Europe’s tallest vertical rock face. For Tony Howard the Troll Wall was to be the beginning of a life of adventure that, though touched upon in the last chapter, would merit a book of its own. – Barry Imeson, Boardman-Tasker Prize 2011A simple story well told, and a classic boys own adventure. A real page turner. – Andy Kirkpatrick, Climb MagazineRichly entertaining and well written ... a raw page-turning tale that brilliantly captures the now historic realities of big-wall climbing of the mid-1960s. – Lynn Martel, Rocky Mountain Outlook (Canada)A truly inspiring tale of one of the greatest achievements in British rock climbing history. – Andy McCue, Climber MagazineA great book, destined for classic status. – Matt Heason, Heason.netA fine fine work by a quite unique individual who has packed more into his lifespan than most of us could manage in ten. Inspirational stuff indeed! – John Appleby, To Hatch a Crow