Sandy Beach Morphodynamics

Derek Jackson is a coastal geomorphologist whose research focus is on coastal environmental change (morphodynamics and geomorphology) at a number of spatial and temporal scales and works on beach and dune systems at various international sites from Europe to South Africa. These research efforts link into themes such as climate change impacts, its associated sea level rise and increased storminess on coastlines. Much of his work undertaken to date ultimately helps in the development of responses to global climate change and pressures on natural beach and dune systems internationally. He has published widely in these fields, sits on several UK and international research panels and is currently co-director of the Centre for Coastal & Marine Research at Ulster University. Andrew Short is a marine scientist specializing in coastal processes and beach dynamics. He has degrees from the University of Sydney, University of Hawaii and Louisiana State University and has worked on the coasts of North and South America, including north Alaska and Hawaii, Europe, New Zealand and the entire Australian coast. He is presently Honorary Professor in the School of Geosciences at the University of Sydney; Adjunct Professor in the Griffith (University) Centre for Coastal Management; Senior Coastal Scientist (part-time) with CoastalCOMS.com; Scientific Adviser to Surf Life Saving Australia; Deputy Chair of National Surfing Reserves (Australia); and on the Executive Committee of World Surfing Reserves. Short has investigated all 10,685 Australian beaches plus another 1500 on 30 major islands. This information is available on line and has been written up in eight books, one for each state and territory. He has written 12 books and over 200 scientific publications. His extensive contribution to both coastal science and beach safety was recognized in 2010 with an Order of Australia Medal.

• 1. Introduction to beach morphodynamics2. Beach sand and its origins3. Wave climates: deep water to shoaling zone4. Wave Behaviour outside the surfzone5. Tidal modulation6. Breaking waves7. The surf zone8. The swash zone9. Marine sediment transport10. Aeolian (windblown) sand transport over beaches11. Rip currents12. From Cusps to Capes: Self-Organized shoreline Shapes13. Rhythmic patterns in the surfzone14. Mixed sand and gravel beaches15. Sandy beaches in estuaries and bays16. Wave-dominated, tide-modified and tide-dominated continuum17. Shallow water wave modelling in the nearshore (SWAN)18. Reflective-dissipative continuum19. Shoreline change Analysis20. Seasonal imprint on beach morphodynamics21. Long-term shoreline morphodynamics: Processes and preservation of environmental signals22. Extreme events: impact and recovery23. Headland Bypassing and Overpassing: Form, Processes and Applications24. Beach rotation25. Coastal Sediment Compartments, Wave Climate, and Centennial-Scale Sediment Budget26. Global beach database27. Beach and nearshore monitoring techniques28. Machine Learning and coastal processes29. Future challenges in beach management as contested spaces