Coastal Storms

Paolo Ciavola is an Associate Professor of Geomorphology at the University of Ferrara, where he teaches courses of geomorphology and coastal risk. He holds an MSc in Geology from the University of Bologna (Italy) and a PhD in Marine Sciences from the University of Algarve (Portugal). He has an interest in coastal processes and risk from extreme storms.Giovanni Coco is an Associate Professor in the School of Environment at the University of Auckland, where he teaches courses on modelling environmental systems. He holds a PhD in Marine Studies from the University of Plymouth (UK). His interests range from coastal processes to machine learning and pattern formation.

• List of Contributors xiSeries Foreword xvIntroduction xviiAcknowledgments xix1 Coastal Storm Definition 1Mitchell Harley1.1 Introduction 11.1.1 The challenge of defining coastal storms 41.1.2 A general coastal storm definition 71.1.3 Approaches to assessing coastal storminess 81.2 Synoptic systems and coastal storms 91.2.1 Tropical cyclones 91.2.2 Extra-tropical cyclones 101.2.3 Storm surge 111.3 Statistical approaches to identifying coastal storms 121.3.1 Coastal storm events from wave time-series 121.3.2 Coastal storm events from water-level time-series 151.3.3 Indicators of coastal storm severity 161.4 Conclusion 18References 192 Hydrodynamics Under Storm Conditions 23Xavier Bertin, Maitane Olabarrieta and Robert McCall2.1 General introduction 232.2 Storm surges 232.2.1 Introduction 232.2.2 Governing equations 242.3 Hydrodynamics of the surf zone during storms 312.3.1 Introduction 312.3.2 Longshore currents 312.3.3 Bed return flows 322.3.4 Infragravity waves 332.3.5 Swash zone dynamics 352.4 Conclusions and future challenges 38Acknowledgements 38References 393 Sediment Transport Under Storm Conditions on Sandy Beaches 45Troels Aagaard and Aart Kroon3.1 Introduction 453.2 Morphological consequences of coastal storms 463.3 Sediment transport processes during storms 483.4 Observations of sediment transport on the upper shoreface during storm events 533.5 Observations of sediment transport on the lower shoreface during storm events 583.6 Conclusions 60Acknowledgements 60References 604 Examples of Storm Impacts on Barrier Islands 65Nathaniel Plant, Kara Doran and Hilary Stockdon4.1 Introduction 654.2 Barrier island response to storms 664.3 Quantifying the changes due to specific storms 704.4 Resilience 754.5 Summary 76Acknowledgements 77References 775 Storm Impacts on the Morphology and Sedimentology of Open-coast Tidal Flats 81Ping Wang and Jun Cheng5.1 Introduction 815.2 Sedimentologic characteristics 835.3 Erosion-deposition processes and morphodynamics of open-coast tidal flat 885.4 Conclusions 96References 966 Storm Impacts on Cliffed Coastlines 99Sue Brooks and Tom Spencer6.1 Introduction 996.2 Methodologies and their application 1046.3 Storminess and the cliff record 1066.4 Case study: Soft rock cliff geology and responses to storms 1106.5 Modelling shoreline retreat for cliffed coasts and the incorporation of storminess 1156.6 Future storm impacts on clifflines under accelerated sea-level rise and changing storminess 1176.7 Conclusions 119Acknowledgements 119References 1197 Storms in Coral Reefs 127Ana Vila-Concejo and Paul Kench7.1 Introduction 1277.2 Geomorphic units of reefs 1297.2.1 Reefs as ecomorphodynamic structures 1307.2.2 Unique interactions of storm waves with coral reefs 1327.3 Storms on the forereef: Role of spurs and grooves 1347.3.1 Destructive effects of storms in the forereef and spur and groove 1357.3.2 Constructive effects of storms in the forereef 1367.4 Storms on the reef flats: Development of rubble flats and rubble spits 1367.4.1 Waves on the reef flats 1367.4.2 Destructive effects of storms on reef flats 1367.4.3 Constructive effects of storms on reef flats 1377.5 Storms on the backreef: Sand aprons, reef islands and beaches 1397.5.1 Sand aprons 1397.5.2 Reef islands 1397.6 Conclusion 145Acknowledgements 145References 1458 Storm Clustering and Beach Response 151Nadia Sénéchal, Bruno Castelle and Karin R. Bryan8.1 Introduction 1518.2 Storm clustering: Genesis and definitions 1538.2.1 Genesis 1538.2.2 Definitions 1548.3 Approaches used to assess storm clustering impact on coasts 1568.3.1 Data collection 1568.3.2 Numerical models 1578.4 Beach response to storm cluster 1598.4.1 Bar dynamics under storm clustering 1598.4.2 Morphological feedback 1608.4.3 The dynamic equilibrium concept 1628.4.4 Water level 1648.4.5 Recovery periods 1658.5 Conclusions 167References 1679 Overwash Processes: Lessons from Fieldwork and Laboratory Experiments 175Ana Matias and Gerhard Masselink9.1 Introduction 1759.1.1 Overwash definition 1759.1.2 Occurrence of overwash 1779.1.3 Relevance of overwash 1809.2 Methods to study overwash processes 1809.2.1 Fieldwork measurements 1809.2.2 Laboratory experiments 1819.3 Hydrodynamic processes during overwash 1839.3.1 Oceanographic conditions 1839.3.2 Hydraulics of overwash flows 1839.4 Morpho-sedimentary dynamics by overwash processes 1859.4.1 Morphological changes induced by overwash 1859.4.2 Morphodynamic processes during overwash 1879.5 Conclusion 189Acknowledgements 190References 19010 Modeling the Morphological Impacts of Coastal Storms 195Ap van Dongeren, Dano Roelvink, Robert McCall, Kees Nederhoff and Arnold van Rooijen10.1 Introduction 19510.1.1 Empirical models 19610.1.2 Process-based models 19710.1.3 Process-model applications 20110.1.4 Operational models 20910.2 Outlook 209Acknowledgements 210References 21011 Preparing for the Impact of Coastal Storms: A Coastal Manager-oriented Approach 217José Jiménez, Clara Armaroli and Eva Bosom11.1 Introduction 21711.2 Coastal vulnerability assessment framework 21911.2.1 General framework 21911.2.2 How to characterize storm-induced hazards 21911.2.3 How to measure the vulnerability 22111.2.4 How to select the probability to be analyzed 22211.2.5 The Catalonia coastal vulnerability assessment framework 22311.3 Coastal early warning systems 22711.3.1 Generalities 22711.3.2 Coastal EWSs 22811.3.3 The Emilia-Romagna coastal early warning system 22811.4 Conclusion 234Acknowledgements 235References 23512 Assessing Storm Erosion Hazards 241Roshanka Ranasinghe and David Callaghan12.1 Introduction 24112.2 The diagnostic conundrum 24212.3 Quantifying storm erosion volumes for coastal management/planning 24312.3.1 Coastal profile model application with Extrapolated Wave Exceedance Characteristics (EWEC) 24312.3.2 Coastal profile model application with the Synthetic Design Storm (SDS) approach 24512.3.3 The Joint Probability Method (JPM) approach 24612.3.4 Corbella and Stretch (CS) approach 24812.4 Application of storm erosion volume estimates in coastal management/planning 25012.5 Conclusions and recommendations 251Acknowledgments 254References 254Conclusions and Future Perspectives 257Index 259