Stories of Fashion, Textiles, and Place

Leslie Davis Burns is President and Founder of Responsible Global Fashion LLC and Professor Emerita of Apparel Design and Merchandising at Oregon State University. A scholar and educator around topics related to the international apparel industries, consumer behavior, and corporate social responsibility, Leslie is author of Sustainability and Social Change in Fashion (2019, Fairchild Books), Fashion Business Cases (2021, Fairchild Books) and co-author of The Business of Fashion (6th edition, 2020, Fairchild Books). She is also the Emeritus Editor of the Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases online resource. Jeanne Carver is an award-winning agricultural entrepreneur. She was named one of nine ‘Female Farmers Changing the Fashion Industry’ by the Pratt Institute of New York.

An eye-opening journey into how sustainable fashion companies can build an economy to increase a global workforce, improve lives, preserve cultures, and reduce their environmental impact.

• Preface1. Sustainable Supply Chains in the Global Fashion IndustryCreating Value and Reflecting ValuesThe Value of PlaceSustainable Supply ChainsEnvironmental SustainabilitySocial and Cultural SustainabilityCapacity Building and Employee EmpowermentSustainable CommunitiesCultural TraditionsEconomic SustainabilitySupply Chain Traceability, Assurance, and TransparencyCertifications, Industry Associations, and PartnershipsIndustry Initiatives, Associations, and PartnershipsLearning through NarrativesReferences and Resources2. Imperial Stock Ranch and Shaniko Wool Company: Natural AdaptationsLambing Season Changing a Mindset: Imperial Stock Ranch, Oregon, USAStarting a Yarn Business: Converting Sunlight EnergyFrom Yarn to Finished ItemsReady-to-Wear: Imperial Collection by Anna CohenSustainable Bridges: East and West, Rural and UrbanThe Business Naturally Adapts“The Call”The Power of Purpose beyond ProfitExpanding MarketsTraceability and CertificationA Sense of PlaceReferences and Resources 3. Angela Damman Yucatán: Advancing Cultural TraditionsA Henequén BagThe Yucatán PeninsulaGrowing Up in Minnesota, USAMoving to YucatánSustainable Agriculture: Cultivating and Processing the FiberProcessing the Fiber: Revitalizing an IndustryShredding, Drying, CombingDyeing FibersRevitalizing the Fiber Processing IndustryWeaving and Product Development: Advancing Cultural TraditionsFacilitating Artisan GroupsA New Generation of WeaversMarkets and RetailingCultural Sustainability: Identity, Community, and PurposeReferences and Resources 4. Tonlé The Mekong and Tonlé Sap Rivers Growing Up The Dichotomy of Cambodian Textiles A Reluctant Businesswoman Transition and Rebranding Zero-waste Model The Artisan Workshop Model The Impact and the Message of Tonlé Today and Tomorrow References and Resources 5. Indigenous Designs: Climbing a Mountain Where Have You Been, My Friend? A Brand Is Born Climbing a Mountain Beyond Ecuador The Artisan Co-op Model Economic Sustainability: Financial Strategies Networks, Organizations, and Certifications Documenting and Communicating Impact Next Steps: Scaling an Artisan Ownership Model References and Resources 6. Harris Tweed®: Às an ghearann tha an t-aodach a’ tighinn / From the Land Comes the Cloth Clò MòrHistory of the Harris Tweed Industry Harris Tweed Act 1993 and the Harris Tweed AuthorityStructure and Supply Chain of Harris TweedCrofting and Wool ProductionProcessing Wool: The Foundation of Harris TweedHarris Tweed MillsWashing and Dyeing WoolBlending, Carding, and Spinning WoolPreparing the WarpTextile DesignWeaving Harris TweedHarris Tweed WeaversThe Weaving ProcessFinishing and Inspecting Harris TweedMarketing Harris Tweed: Power of the OrbMarketing Harris TweedMarkets for Harris Tweed: Tradition and EvolutionUsing the Harris Tweed Label on Finished ProductsProtecting the OrbFrom the People Comes the ClothReferences and Resources7. Creating and Reflecting Values through Sustainable Supply ChainsThe Value of Place in Sustainable Supply ChainsThe Value of People in Sustainable Supply ChainsThe Value of Product in Sustainable Supply ChainsCharacteristics of the Founders, CEO, Partners, and ArtisansReferences and ResourcesEpilogue and Recommended Reading