Detours

Vernadette VicuÑa Gonzalez is Associate Professor of American Studies at the University of Hawai‘i at Mānoa and author of Securing Paradise: Tourism and Militarism in Hawai‘i and the Philippines, also published by Duke University Press.Hōkūlani K. Aikau is Professor of Indigenous Governance at the University of Victoria and author of A Chosen People, a Promised Land: Mormonism and Race in Hawai‘i.

“This brilliant and beautiful collection-which features interviews, personal essays, collaborative pieces with community elders, family histories, and more-is a rich ethical project that offers so much for so many. Mahalo!” - J. Kehaulani Kauanui, author of (Paradoxes of Hawaiian Sovereignty: Land, Sex, and the Colonial Politics of State Nationalism) “[Detours] seeks to flip travel writing's static script, telling tourists that they are not entitled to all things Hawaiian because the Hawai‘i of their imagination is obliterating the Hawai‘i of Kānaka Maoli. . . . [Aikau and Gonzalez are] hoping to reach those who intend to become better guests, even if they're in the minority.” - Bani Amor (Fodor's Travel) "The stories, art and ideas collected in Detours are a guide to the contributors’ connections to Hawaii. As a collective, the stories demonstrate how readers can learn about Hawaii beyond the veneer of tourism, and approach the island-state in a way that honors and reduces harm to the local cultures and communities." - Crystal Paul (Seattle Times) "This important book challenges readers to think critically about the violence of colonialism that is expressed through tourism. . . . Detours is valuable not only to those studying Hawaiʻi, but more broadly to scholars of indigenous studies and anyone interested in the colonial legacies of tourism. Highly recommended. All levels." - L. Kessler (Choice) "If you know a particularly intuitive traveler, someone who wants to find the hidden histories of a place, the guidebook Detours: A Decolonial Guide to Hawai‘i . . . will give them perfect examples of ways to reapproach tourism and travel-in other words, to decolonize their experience."- Kit Dillon (Wirecutter) "By collecting the stories of Kanaka, this guide educates its readers with rich, wise primary sources. It effectively amplifies the voices of those most knowledgeable and does not shy away from harsh facts and truths that are often glossed over. . . . I highly recommend this guide to everyone who has or plans to have contact with Hawai’i. What you learn from reading should impact the way you approach your visit and bring to light new considerations to uphold a pono (just, fitting) experience." - Erica Cheung (International Examiner) “Detours is more than a book. In fact, it may only incidentally be a book. Rather, this collection feels like an extension of Kanaka innovation that reinvents intergenerational knowledge transmission and documentation.” - Natchee Blu Barnd (American Indian Culture and Research Journal) “After reading this book, you cannot journey to Hawai’i without a very different way of knowing this place and its people.... Detours sets an important milestone and has made an invaluable contribution to decolonizing tourism.” - Freya Higgins-Desbiolles (Journal of Sustainable Tourism) "A fascinating collection, an attempt to use the framework of the travel industry to destabilize the travel industry . . . scraping at the fantasy version of this place to find what’s been buried." - Chris Colin (Afar) “As a text that brings together so many voices, Detours is indispensable to scholars in Indigenous studies and Pacific studies, as well as activists and organizers at the intersections of decolonization and demilitarization.... Detours is a critical disruption to business as usual.” - Gregory Pomaikai Gushiken (Native American and Indigenous Studies) “With its eclectic collection of stories and histories, Detours reroutes the tourist gaze and offers travelers, scholars, and island residents richly diverse perspectives on Hawai’i.” - Kirsten Møllegaard (Journal of American Culture) "It’s rare to find such an honest, deeply informative overview of a destination; the Detours guide to Hawaii should be required reading for anyone planning to visit the islands, and the same will surely be true of future Detours issues about other spots." (Conde Nast Traveler)

• Acknowledgements  xiiiIntroduction  1Part 1. Wahi Pana / Storied Places  15Only Twenty Ahupua'a Away  19Hā-mākua  26He Mo'olelo no Pa'auilo: Restor(y)ing 'Āina in a Quiet, Old Plantation Town in Hāmākua  28Ponoiwi  37Wehe a'ela ka 'Īao ma Haleakalā  45(Locals Will) Remove All Valuables from You Vehicle: The Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens and the Damming of the Waters  50Finding Direction: Google Mapping the Sacred, Mo'olelo Mapping Wahi Pana in Five Poems  58Princess Ka'iulani Haunts the Empire of Waikīkī  67Sources of Sustainment: Fort Kamehameha and 'Āhua Point  77Fantasy Island: From Pineapple Plantation to Tourist Plantation on Lāna'i  86Anini  94Kahale'ala, Halele'a: Fragrant Joyful Home, a Visit to Anini, Kaua'i  96Nā Pana Kaulana o Keaukaha: The Stories Places of Keaukaha  107Part II. Hana Lima / Decolonial Projects and Representation  119Ke Kilohana  123Aloha is Deoccupied Love  125Sovereign Spaces: Creating Decolonial Zones through Hula and Mele  132Settler Colonial Postcards  147An Island Negotiating a Pathway for Responsible Tourism  153Ka Hale Hō'ike'ike a Pihopa: A Bishop Museum Love Story  164Reclaiming the 'Ili of Haukulu and 'Aihulama  173Keauhou Resort: Rethinking Highest and Best Use  182'A'ole is Our Refusal  193"Where are Your Sacred Temples?" Notes on the Struggle for Mauna a Wākea  200Kūluku Hale in Hāna, East Maui: Reviving Traditional Hawaiian House and Heaiu Building  211Pū'olo Pa'akai: A Bundle of Salt from Pū'olo, Hanapēpē, Kaua'i  220"Welcome to the Future:" Restoring Keawanui Fishpond  230Part III. Huaka'i / Tours for Transformation  245The Hawai'i DeTour Project: Demilitarizing Sites and Sights on O'ahu  249Kanaloa Kaho'olawe: He Wahi Akua / A Sacred Place  261Fences and Fishing Nets: Conflicting Visions of Stewardship for Ka'ena and Mākua  271Beneath the Touristic Sheen of Waikīkī  283Sakada  293A Downtown Honolulu and Capital District Decolonial Tour  300Unearthing 'Auwai and Urban Histories in Kaka'ako  315Displaced Kaka'ako  326What's under the Pavement in my Neighborhood, Pūowaina  238Mapping Wonder in Lualualei on theHuaka'i Kāko'o no Wai'anae Environmental Justice Bus Tour  340Part IV. Hawai'i beyond the Big Eight / New mappings  351Where is Hawai'i? Hawaiian Diaspora and Kuleana 355We Never Voyage Alone  362Law of Canoe: Reckoning Colonialism and Criminal Justice in the Pacific  373Reconnecting with Ancestroial Islands: A Guide to Papahānaumokuākea (the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands)  380Conclusion: 'A'ole I Pau (Not Yet Finished)  391Glossary of Terms  393Select References 405Contributors  409Index  417