Patricia Harris travels the world researching books and articles about travel, food, and the arts for a variety of U.S. and British publications. But she returns again and again to Spain, partly because she likes the person she becomes there--the one who stays out late at flamenco clubs, walks windswept beaches, dances the sardana in front of Barcelona's cathedral, and eats a thousand delicacies she probably wouldn't have tried at home. A former arts administrator who directed funding for theater, dance, and the visual arts, she loves the anguished angular faces of Catalan Gothic saints, the enigma of pure color on a Miro canvas, the pulsing rhythms of flamenco song and dance, the buffoonery of zarzuela, and the poignant passion of Carmen. Her kitchen cabinets are full of smoked Spanish paprika, Spanish saffron, and bags of a special sea salt from the Costa Brava that she buys in Spanish supermarkets for less than one euro per kilo. She lives in Cambridge, MA.

• Introduction 1. Sense of Place Plaza Mayor, Madrid 2. I Am Woman Highlights of the Museo de Prado, Madrid 3. Choc Around the Clock Chocolateria San Gines, Madrid 4. Shadow to the Throne Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales, Madrid 5. The Word on the Streets Barrio de las Letras, Madrid 6. If the Shoe Fits Shopping for Shoes in Chueca, Madrid 7. The Collector's Eye Carmen Thyssen Selections at the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, Madrid 8. Timeless Cry Against War 'Guernica' at the Reina Sofia, Madrid 9. Where the City Blooms Great Parks of Madrid 10. Stitches of Time Real Fabrica de Tapices, Madrid 11. Just One More Bite Madrid Food Tour 12. Echoes of Antiquity Archaeological Museum, Madrid 13. !Ole! !Ole! Flamenco at Casa Patas, Madrid 14. Faith and Will The Trail of Isabel I of Castilla and Leon 15. Within the Walls of Faith Santa Teresa of Avila 16. Dreaming in Stone Carved Buildings of Salamanca 17. Defenders of the Faith Romanesque Churches of Zamora 18. Pioneer Women in Wine: Tinto de Toro Elias Mora and D.O. Toro 19. Visions of Heaven and Hell La Colegiata, Toro 20. Pioneer Women in Wine: Rueda Jose Pariente and D.O. Rueda 21. Shining Through The Catedral de Leon 22. Spain's First Power Couple El Cid and Jimena Diaz, Burgos 23. The French Connection Marques de Riscal, La Rioja 24. Hope Flies The Nesting White Storks of Alfaro 25. Wayside Rest Santo Domingo de la Calzada 26. Sun or Shade? Pamplona and the Ritual of the Bullfight 27. Speaking in Tongues Monasteries of Suso and Yuso 29. Power of a Perfect Outfit The Cristobal Balenciaga Museum, Getaria 28. The Guggenheim Effect Life in Bilbao, A City Saved by Art and Architecture 30. A Father-Daughter Culinary Dynasty Dining at Restaurant Arzak in San Sebastian 31. A Spanish Movable Feast Eating Pintxos in San Sebastian 32. Buried Magic Prehistoric Cave Art in Cantabria 33. Origin Stories Cangas de Onis and Covadonga 34. The Real Star of 'Vicky Cristina Barcelona' Celtic City of Oviedo 35. Galicia's Joan of Arc The Tale of Maria Pita of A Coruna 36. Step by Step Pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago 37. New Jerusalem The End of the Road at Santiago de Compostela 38. Heart of the Country Spain's First Capital, Toledo 39. Written on the Walls The Ceramics of Talavera de la Reina 40. Flights of Fancy Abstract Art in the Mountaintop Aerie of Cuenca 41. The Queen's Good Taste Cuenca's Cathedral Launched Gothic Style in Spain 42. Learning the Art of the Stripper The Saffron Rose Festival, Consuegra 43. Tilting at Windmills La Mancha of Don Quijote 44. Going to Extremes Conquistador Cities of Extremadura 45. Rome Remains Ancient Colonial City of Merida 46. Excess of Splendor Sevilla's Massive Gothic Cathedral 47.Of Cigars and Arias In the Footsteps of Carmen, Sevilla 48. Spanish Rhythms Museo del Baile Flamenco, Sevilla 49. A Slippery (and Delicious) Slope The Olive Oil Workshop, Sevilla 50. Our Lady of Hope La Macarena, Sevilla 51. The Fringe Effect Shopping for Shawls, Sevilla 52. Duquesa for the Ages Sevilla's Newest Museum 53. Marriage of Styles Sevilla's Alcazar 54. Park of the Princess Parque Maria Luisa, Sevilla 55. The Most Evil Man Who Ever Lived Don Juan in Sevilla 56. The Intimacy of Women Baths of Andalucia 57. Bearing the Weight Best Places for Holy Week Processions 58. Fino and Finesse Sherry Culture, Jerez de la Frontera 59. Practice Makes Perfect Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre, Jerez de la Frontera 60. Easter on the Beach Salt on the Tongue, Sanlucar de la Barrameda 61. By the Sea, By the Beautiful Sea Cadiz, the First City of Western Europe 62. The Perfect Wave Surfing on the Cadiz Coast 63. The Thrill of the Drive Crossing the Mountains of Andalucia's White Towns 64. Living on the Edge The Daring City of Ronda 65. Jet Set Playground Riches of Marbella 66. New Act for an Old City Reinvention Keeps Malaga Fresh 67. Cradle of Genius Picasso in Malaga 68. A Museum of Her Own Museo Carmen Thyssen, Malaga 69. Traces of the Wind El Paraje Natural Torcal de Antequera 70. Private Lives Fiesta de los Patios de Cordoba 71. Morning Prayers La Mezquita, Cordoba 72. Last Stronghold of a Lost Empire La Alhambra and El Generalife, Granada 73. Lorca and the Dark Heart of Duende Huerta de San Vicente, Granada 74. The Art of the Deal Shopping in Granada 75. Song and Dance of the Gypsy Zambra Cueva de Maria la Canastera, Granada 76. Trekking the Berber Villages Alpujarras de Granada 77. First Love Lives On 'Los Amantes' of Teruel 78. From the Beach to the Palm Forest Alicante and Elche 79. The Perfect Plate of Rice Paella in Valencia 80. Light My Fire The Fallas Festival, Valencia 81. Jewel of the Gold Coast The Roman City of Tarragona 82. Wine and Song Catalan Palaces of Cava and Music 83. Living in a Masterpiece Modernisme Homes in Barcelona 84. Walking Barcelona Three Promenades to Remember 85. A Wedding and a Wine Bar Santa Maria del Mar and La Vinya del Senor, Barcelona 86. Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man Picasso in Barcelona 87. Dancing on the Plaza Barcelona's Barri Gotic on Sunday 88. A Vision to Behold La Sagrada Familia of Antoni Gaudi, Barcelona 89. The Magic Mountain Treasures of Montjuic, Barcelona 90. Temples of Food Three Great Markets in Barcelona 91. The Most Important Meal of the Day Five Breakfasts in Barcelona 92. Hand of the Madonna The Shrine of Montserrat 93. Among the Legends The Storied City of Girona 94. Mad Love Salvador and Gala Dali, Figueres, Cadaques, and Pubol 95. A City Unfurls Palma, Mallorca's Capital City 96. The Perfect Blue The Joan Miro and Pilar Juncosa Foundation, Mallorca 97. Ascending the Heights The Road to Valldemossa on Mallorca 98. Mallorca's Literary Love Nest Ca N'Alluny, the Home of Laura Riding and Robert Graves 99. Sun on the Skin Best Naturist Beaches 100. Room for the Night Some Great Spanish Paradors