Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage

For many, Hermann Buhl is one of the greatest climbers of all time. Born in Innsbruck, Austria, in 1924, he was a frail child and not encouraged to climb but, driven by enthusiasm and determination, he did so anyway. He became one of the best rock climbers in Austria, and then one of the best mountaineers, before serving in the Second World War where he was captured while stationed with the alpine troops. Following the war, he turned his attention to the Western Alps with impressive results, making a series of remarkable climbs, often solo and frequently in appalling conditions. As his experiences and abilities grew - Buhl was to qualify as a mountain guide - it was inevitable that he would turn to the greater ranges. In 1953, on his first expedition, Buhl made the first ascent of Nanga Parbat, the ninth-highest mountain in the world. Climbing alone and without supplementary oxygen, he made a highly committing dash for the summit. When, in 1957, he made the first ascent of Broad Peak, again without oxygen or support from porters, he became the first man to make two first ascents of 8,000-metre peaks. Buhl was killed only a few weeks later while descending from an attempt on nearby Chogolisa.

• Translator's introductionIntroduction to the 1998 editionAbout the authorIn the mountains of North Tyrol'They'll never make a climber of me'A lesson from deathEnd of an Alpine apprenticeshipGrade VI - in the limestone cliffsThree routes on the SchusselkarThe dying mountain - the north wall of the PraxmarerkarspitzeHead-first to lifeThe extreme edge of the abyss - the Mauk west wallStraight on up - the Laliderer wallChange of occupation - the ski-racerAvalanches, plaster casts and a hint of springThe Dolomite fairylandSmuggler's journey into FairylandOnce in a lifetime - Goldkappel south wallThe north-east wall of the FurchettaA climb on probationIce-glazed rock, waterfalls and stonesThe Royal Wall of the CivettaWinter trainingIn the hell of a blizzard - Schusselkar wallTwenty-five summits in thirty-three hoursThe cold areteIn the ice of the Western AlpsThe wall of ice and gritThe north wall of the TrioletOnly eight hours - but productive!Christmas on the precipicesClimbing on steeplesTurned down by the JorassesDreams come trueThunder on the Aiguille NoireA storm on the MonarchThe south-west wall of the Marmolada, in winterDown a crevasse and an Alpine wagerThe buttress of the Grandes JorassesFifteen peaks at one biteThe Matterhorn and a flagon of wineGymnastics on rock - the north wall of the Western ZinneA climber went a-wooingWe had to bivouac after all - on the Tofana buttressBadile - north-east wallPreparation for a great objectiveThe mountain crucible - Eiger north wallThe daily round intervenesAlone on a winter's night - east wall of the WatzmannNanga ParbatBelow 26,000 feetAbove 26,000 feetEpilogue - A year later.