Estelle Ottenwelter - Böcker

Using a multidisciplinary methodology, the technological approach developed in this publication provides new insights into Great Moravian and Bohemian elite jewellery dated from the 9th and 10th centuries AD. Based on an investigation of the main types of jewels (gombiky, earrings, metallic elements of necklaces including kaptorgy, beads, and chains), it sheds light on the complex construction of these jewels, on the different manufacturing processes, and on the decoration techniques involved in their fabrication. Detailed material characterizations highlight the elemental chemical composition and purity of the alloys used by jewellers in Moravia and Bohemia through the 9th and 10th centuries. Comparisons of the size, the total number of components, the estimated manufacturing time, and the weight of precious metal needed to produce each type of jewel shed light on the level of complexity involved in their manufacture and highlight the exceptional pieces. Observations and comparisons of tool marks, defects, and quality of realization evidence the presence of very fine pieces manufactured by highly skilled goldsmiths using sophisticated tools alongside coarser products manufactured by unexperienced craftsmen with low skill and more rudimentary tools. In addition, they allow us to identify pieces likely produced in the same workshop and probable imports.