Jeff Divine – författare

For over fifty years, Divine has been the defining storyteller of surf culture—capturing waves, wanderlust, and the spirit of life by the ocean.Five decades of surfing captured through the lens of legendary photographer, showcasing his most iconic and never-before-seen images that chronicle the sport’s spirit from its mid-1960s subculture roots to its mainstream rise. Beginning in La Jolla in 1965, Divine documented surfing’s evolution from a close-knit subculture into a global phenomenon, building one of the sport’s most significant visual archives.This career-spanning collection brings together his most iconic photographs alongside rare, never-before-seen images. From California’s golden 1960s and 1970s surf scene to Hawaii’s heavy North Shore swells, and from South Africa to Tahiti, Divine’s lens reveals the beauty, style, and attitude that shaped generations of surfers. His work also traces early explorations of remote surf frontiers, capturing the thrill of discovery long before these destinations were widely known.Featuring legendary figures such as Gerry Lopez, Andy Irons, Kelly Slater, and Rell Sunn, the book offers an intimate look at the athletes, artistry, and lifestyle that built modern surf culture. Divine’s images celebrate not just the sport but the people, places, and energy that define surfing life.A definitive visual history, this lavish volume is a must-have for surfers, adventurers, photography enthusiasts, and anyone drawn to the sea.

A colorful, insider portrait of ’70s surf culture, with a foreword by Pulitzer Prize–winning author William FinneganIf you were there, even just for some of it—Hawaii, California, surfing, the ’70s—the memories and stories will flow freely from these photographs. Jeff Divine was there for all of it, and these images have been culled from an enormous personal archive. Divine was shooting for Surfer, the monthly magazine that was the bible of the scene. His photos from this archive show the precommercialized era in surfing when the hippie influence still held sway. Surfers had their own slang-infused language and were deep into a world of Mother Ocean, wilderness and a culture that mainstream society spurned. Surfboards were handmade in family garages, often made for a specific kind of wave or speed, for paddling, ease of turning, and featured all kinds of psychedelic designs. Some were even hollowed out to smuggle hash from Morocco.The color and black-and-white photographs collected here, taken throughout California on the coastlines at Baja, Dana Point, Laguna Beach, La Jolla, Malibu, San Clemente and Oahu, give a vivid image of this close-knit culture and the incredible athletic feats of its heroes and heroines.Raised in La Jolla, California, Jeff Divine (born 1950) started photographing the surfing world in 1966. He held jobs as photo editor for 35 years with Surfer magazine and Surfer’s Journal. His works have been displayed worldwide in museums and galleries, as well as in books, magazines and media. In 2019 he was inducted into the Huntington Beach Surfing Walk of Fame for his contribution to surf culture in a career lasting 50 years.