John Grue – författare

This volume - Waves in Geophysical Fluids - contains extended versions of the lec­ tures that were given at a summerschool in Centre International des Sciences Mecaniques (CISM), Udine, Italy, during the week of 11-15 July 2005. The subjects of the school covered: the formation of the very long tsunamis, the much shorter rogue waves taking place on the sea surface, very large oceanic internal waves and, finally, internal tides and hot spots in the ocean. The subjects were chosen because of their implications to the safety of human activity in and in relation to the ocean environment, and the impact of the processes to the ocean currents and climate. The physical phenomena and how to mathematically and numerically model them were described in the lectures. The giant and destructive tsunami that occurred in the Indian Ocean on the 26th December 2004 urged scientists to communicate to the authorities and public the existing knowledge of tsunami wave modelling, and how the forecasts can be used for warning and evacuation of the people in the near shore region, corresponding to what is practice along the coasts of the Pacific Ocean. The first chapter of this book is precicsely describing the current practice of the forecasting and risk evaluation of tsunamis, and includes also an overview of the geograpical distribution of tsunami sources in the world's oceans.

In December 1994 Professor Enok Palm celebrated his 70th birthday and retired after more than forty years of service at the University of Oslo. In view of his outstanding achievements as teacher and scientist a symposium entitled "Waves and Nonlinear Processes in Hydrodynamics" was held in his honour from the 17th to the 19th November 1994 in the locations of The Norwegian Academy of Science and Letters in Oslo. The topics of the symposium were chosen to cover Enok's broad range of scientific work, interests and accomplishments: Marine hydrodynamics, nonlinear wave theory, nonlinear stability, thermal convection and geophys­ ical fluid dynamics, starting with Enok's present activity, ending with the field where he began his career. This order was followed in the symposium program. The symposium had two opening lectures. The first looked back on the history of hydrodynamic research at the University of Oslo. The second focused on applications of hydrodynamics in the offshore industry today.

This volume introduces particle image velocimetry (PIV), a technique for water wave measurement in the laboratory and in the open ocean. It discusses the turbulent dissipation, Reynolds stresses and vortical structures in boundary layers of the sea bed, as well as ships, ship wakes, propulsion hydrodynamics, cavitation and free surface waves. Upwelling behind crests of micro-breaking ocean surface waves (important for the exchange of greenhouse gases between air and water) and large amplitude internal solitons in the ocean are measured. The book includes velocities and accelerations in breaking ocean waves, run-up, interaction between strong waves and breakwaters, as well as a concise description of the state-of-the-art PIV technique.This book has its origins in a meeting on PIV and water waves which was held in Cambridge in 2002. The main body of the book consists of six overview or in-depth articles by invited authors who are specialists in their respective fields, as well as practitioners of PIV. A complete set of abstracts from the meeting is enclosed. The book is well suited for scientists who want to acquaint themselves with current experimental hydrodynamics, as well as for researchers and graduate students who are already working in the field or plan to do so.