Karen Van Godtsenhoven – författare

Fashion Game Changers traces radical innovations in Western fashion design from the beginning of the 20th century to the present.Challenging the traditional silhouettes of their day, fashion designers such as Madeleine Vionnet and Cristóbal Balenciaga began to liberate the female body from the close-fitting hourglass forms which dominated European and American fashion, instead enveloping bodies in more autonomous garments which often took inspiration from beyond the West. As the century progressed, new generations of avant-garde designers from Rei Kawakubo to Martin Margiela further developed the ideas instigated by their predecessors to defy established notions of femininity in dress, creating space between body and garment. This way, a new relationship between body and dress emerged for the 21st century.With over 200 images and commentaries from an international range of leading fashion curators and historians, this beautifully illustrated book showcases some of the most revolutionary silhouettes and innovative designs of over 100 years of fashion.

This survey of women-led fashion design centered around the twentieth and twenty-first centuries emphasizes the creative agency and artistic legacy of female creators  “This excellent book is recommended for readers interested in women fashion designers, particularly those who are not well-known today.”—Sandra Rothenberg, Library Journal (starred review)  Exploring the enduring impact of fashions created by and for women, this book traces a historical and conceptual lineage across more than 70 female designers— from unidentified dressmakers in eighteenth-century France, to contemporary makers who are leading the direction of fashion today—all culled from the incredible permanent collection of The Costume Institute. Insightful essays that consider notions of anonymity, visibility, agency, and absence/omission reveal women’s impact within the field of fashion, highlighting celebrated designers and forgotten histories alike. The publication includes fashion houses such as Mad Carpentier, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Madeleine Vionnet, American makers like Ann Lowe, Claire McCardell, and Isabel Toledo, along with contemporary designers such as Rei Kawakubo, Anifa Mvuemba, Simone Rocha, and Iris van Herpen. New photography, created especially for this volume, uses light, shadow, and reflection to connect the garments to the four themes of the essays, which situate the works within a larger social context, and a fold-out genealogical chart traces connections between the makers featured. This overdue look at women-led design will be essential reading for anyone interested in the history of fashion.  Published by The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Distributed by Yale University Press  Exhibition Schedule:  Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York(December 7, 2023–March 3, 2024)

Emerging Standards for Enhanced Publications and Repository Technology serves as a technology watch on the rapidly evolving world of digital publication. It provides an up-to-date overview of technical issues, underlying the development of universally accessible publications, their elemental components and linked information. More specifically it deals with questions as how to bring together the communities of the Current Research Information Systems (CRIS) and the Common European Research Information Format (CERIF). Case studies like EGEE, DILIGENT and DRIVER are analyzed, as well as implementations in projects in Ireland, Denmark and The Netherlands. Interoperability is the keyword in this context and this book introduces to new standards and concepts used in the design of envelopes and packages, overlays and feeds, embedding, publishing formats and Web services and service-oriented architecture. It is a must-read for quick and comprehensive orientation.

This book offers an in-depth exploration of the relationship between fashion and motherhood, a topic that is explored in detail for the first time. Mothers, mother figures, mentors and family ties are intimately intertwined with fashion history. Many designers reach back to the style of their mother's day, but mums themselves are also a big source of inspiration. Symbolic fashion mothers, such as Jeanne Lanvin, Madeleine Vionnet and Sonia Rykiel, made an artistic mark on the creations of their contemporaries and are still influencing present-day designers. From 1900 onward there was a growing appreciation of the cultural identity of mothers, both in fashion and in society. In 20th and 21st century fashion, this culminated in a veritable celebration of mothers and mother figures.

"... pieces are beautifully crafted" - Net-a-porter.comBirds of paradise, exotic flowers, the Garden of Eden, Gustav Klimt, Art Nouveau and Les Ballets Russes are sources of inspiration for the fantastic and exclusive oeuvre of Belgian lingerie and nightwear designer Carine Gilson. She transforms Calais lace and silk from Lyon into 'haute lingerie' with masterly finesse, and her designs catapult the imagination into a dream world of sensuality and elegance. This book explores her philosophy and work, focusing on her designs, the luxurious material she sources, and the craftsmanship of the atelier that has been transforming lace and silk into exquisite and luxurious lingerie, robes, and nightgowns for nearly 30 years. Carine Gilson's couture lingerie is sold in her own stores in Paris, London, Taipei and Brussels and in famous couture houses around the world.