Magnus Marsden is Lecturer on the anthropology of Islam, as well as on religion and politics in Pakistan, at the University of Cambridge.

'Magnus Marsden has joined the ranks of the great ethnographers of the British Empire who described and wrote about the peoples of the Indian subcontinent with accuracy and even affection. Marsden's lucid and insightful work, based in Chitral, one of the most isolated and least known societies in the subcontinent, comes as a relief after the stereotypes and caricatures which pass for commentary in the media about Muslim societies.' Akbar Ahmed, The Ibn Khaldun Chair of Islamic Studies and Professor of International Relations, American University, Washington D.C.

• 1. Introduction; 2. Rowshan: Chitral village life; 3. Emotions upside-down: affection and Islam; 4. The play of the mind: debating village Muslims; 5. Mahfils and musicians: new Muslims in Markaz; 6. Rowshan's amulet making ulama; 7. To eat or not to eat: Ismai'lis and Sunnis in Rowshan; 8. Conclusion.

Magnus Marsden is Lecturer on the anthropology of Islam, as well as on religion and politics in Pakistan, at the University of Cambridge.

'Magnus Marsden has joined the ranks of the great ethnographers of the British Empire who described and wrote about the peoples of the Indian subcontinent with accuracy and even affection. Marsden's lucid and insightful work, based in Chitral, one of the most isolated and least known societies in the subcontinent, comes as a relief after the stereotypes and caricatures which pass for commentary in the media about Muslim societies.' Akbar Ahmed, The Ibn Khaldun Chair of Islamic Studies and Professor of International Relations, American University, Washington D.C.

• 1. Introduction; 2. Rowshan: Chitral village life; 3. Emotions upside-down: affection and Islam; 4. The play of the mind: debating village Muslims; 5. Mahfils and musicians: new Muslims in Markaz; 6. Rowshan's amulet making ulama; 7. To eat or not to eat: Ismai'lis and Sunnis in Rowshan; 8. Conclusion.

Magnus Marsden is Lecturer on the anthropology of Islam, as well as on religion and politics in Pakistan, at the University of Cambridge.

'Magnus Marsden has joined the ranks of the great ethnographers of the British Empire who described and wrote about the peoples of the Indian subcontinent with accuracy and even affection. Marsden's lucid and insightful work, based in Chitral, one of the most isolated and least known societies in the subcontinent, comes as a relief after the stereotypes and caricatures which pass for commentary in the media about Muslim societies.' Akbar Ahmed, The Ibn Khaldun Chair of Islamic Studies and Professor of International Relations, American University, Washington D.C.

• 1. Introduction; 2. Rowshan: Chitral village life; 3. Emotions upside-down: affection and Islam; 4. The play of the mind: debating village Muslims; 5. Mahfils and musicians: new Muslims in Markaz; 6. Rowshan's amulet making ulama; 7. To eat or not to eat: Ismai'lis and Sunnis in Rowshan; 8. Conclusion.