EditorAmarjit Sahota President, Organic Monitor, London, UK

“Amarjit Sahota’s book is a well-researched and comprehensive snapshot on the different facets of sustainability in cosmetics today. This is the first, and currently, the only book on this hot topic; it’s a must read.”  (Chemistry & Industry, 14 July 2014)“This publication from Wiley collects a wide number of articles focusing on sustainability in cosmetics, 14 chapters, which represents a road map in this so sensitive issue. The authors are key experts from organizations involved in sustainability in the cosmetics industry issue with a relevant long experience.”  (H & PC Today, March/April 2014)

• About the Contributors xv Foreword xxiiiPreface xxvii1 Introduction to Sustainability 1Amarjit Sahota1.1 Introduction to Book 11.2 Introduction to Sustainability 21.3 Ethics in the Cosmetics Industry 31.4 Drivers of Sustainability 61.4.1 Rise in Ethical Consumerism 71.4.2 Pressure from the Media and NGOs 71.4.3 Environmental Changes and Finite Resources 81.4.4 Pressure from the Supply Chain 91.4.5 Laws and Regulation 91.4.6 Business Benefits 101.5 Sustainability Reporting 101.5.1 CSR and Sustainability Reports 101.5.2 Communicating to Consumers 111.6 Guide to Book Chapters 12References 152 Environmental Impacts of Cosmetic Products 17Part 1: The Growing Importance of Metrics 17Xavier Vital2.1.1 Corporate Carbon Footprinting 182.1.2 Ecodesign 252.1.3 Get Ready for the Future 272.1.4 Conclusions 30Acknowledgement 31References 31Part 2: Innovating to Reduce the Environmental Footprint, the L’Oreal Example 31Jean-Florent Campion, Rachel Barre, and Laurent Gilbert2.2.1 Introduction 312.2.2 Product Eco-Design 322.2.3 Responsible Sourcing and Biodiversity Preservation 352.2.4 Responsible Production 382.2.5 Reference Actions – Some Examples of Key Achievements 402.2.6 Conclusion 46Acknowledgements 46References 463 The Social Footprint of a Beauty Company 47Bas Schneiders3.1 The Relationship between Cosmetics and Sustainability 473.2 The Growing Significance of Sustainability 483.2.1 Current Situation 483.2.2 Solution Strategies 493.3 Sustainability as a Social Challenge for Cosmetics Companies 503.3.1 Social Footprinting 503.3.2 Critical Areas with Social Impacts 503.3.3 Social Diversity and Differentiation 523.4 Case Study: Weleda: A Value-Oriented Business 533.4.1 Ethical Sourcing 553.4.2 Employee Policy 623.4.3 Corporate Philanthropy 653.4.4 Economic Sustainability and Value Creation 663.5 Conclusions 68Recommended Reading 68References 684 Ethical Sourcing of Raw Materials 69Part 1: Ethical Sourcing – The Givaudan Approach 69Remi Pulverail4.1.1 The Business Case for Ethical Sourcing 694.1.2 Making Ethical Sourcing a Reality 704.1.3 Working with Customers 714.1.4 Building Supplier Partnerships 724.1.5 Securing the Future of Benzoin in Laos 724.1.6 Tracing the Origins of Ethical Vanilla in Madagascar 744.1.7 Moh´eli Partnership Rediscovers Ylang Ylang 764.1.8 Equipment Loans Support Sustainable Sandalwood Production 774.1.9 Protecting Biodiversity and Tonka Bean Supply in Venezuela 794.1.10 Is Natural Sustainable? 804.1.11 Conclusion 80Part 2: Innovation and Ethical Sourcing – Beraca’s Experience 81Filipe Tomazelli Sabara4.2.1 Introduction 814.2.2 Challenges Related to Ethical Sourcing 824.2.3 Beraca and the Biodiversity Enhancement Programme 834.2.4 Working in Partnership with Local Communities 854.2.5 Success Stories 894.2.6 What is Yet to be Achieved 934.2.7 Conclusion 94References 955 Biodiversity in the Cosmetics Industry 97Eduardo Escobedo and Rik Kutsch Lojenga5.1 Introduction 975.1.1 The Critical Loss of Biodiversity and Its Impact on the Cosmetics Industry 995.2 Why Should the Cosmetics Industry Care about Protecting Biodiversity? 1005.2.1 Biodiversity as a Sound Business Strategy 1015.2.2 Ecosystem Services 1025.3 How is the Policy Arena Changing and What Implications Does This Have for the Industry? 1035.3.1 The Convention on Biological Diversity 1035.3.2 The Strategic Plan for Biodiversity 1045.3.3 The Nagoya Protocol 1065.3.4 The Convention on International Trade of Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna (CITES) 1075.4 Biodiversity Barometer: Consumer Views and Expectations on Biodiversity 1095.4.1 Biodiversity Awareness is Growing 1105.4.2 Increased Awareness Brings Greater Expectations 1115.4.3 Opportunities for Pioneering Companies 1115.5 Ethical Sourcing in Practice 1145.5.1 Putting Ethical Sourcing of Biodiversity into Practice 1145.5.2 Conservation of Biodiversity 1165.5.3 Sustainable Use of Biodiversity 1185.5.4 Fair and Equitable Benefit Sharing 1205.6 Conclusions 124References 1256 Sustainable Packaging 127Part 1: Introduction 127Amarjit SahotaReferences 129Part 2: Sustainable Packaging for Cosmetic Products – Using Biobased Carbon Content and Designing for End-of-Life 129Ramani Narayan6.2.1 Introduction 1296.2.2 Carbon Footprint Value Proposition 1306.2.3 Material Carbon Versus Process Carbon Footprint 1316.2.4 Exemplars of Zero Material Carbon Footprint Resins 1326.2.5 Measuring Biobased Carbon Content 1346.2.6 End-of-Life for the Packaging – Recycling and Biodegradable-Compostability 1356.2.7 Science of Biodegradability 1366.2.8 Summary 138References 139Part 3: The Role of Design for Sustainable Packaging 139Anne van Haeften6.3.1 Introduction 1396.3.2 The Design Agency 1406.3.3 Packaging Design 1416.3.4 The Brand 1426.3.5 Innovation and Design 1446.3.6 Graphical Component 1446.3.7 Post-Use Packaging 1456.3.8 Lush Case Study: Get Naked! 1456.3.9 Conclusion 147References 148Part 4: Sustainable Packaging – Aveda Case Study 148John A. Delfausse6.4.1 A Commitment to the Environment – the Aveda Mission 1486.4.2 Direction from the Top 1486.4.3 A Great Beginning 1496.4.4 Real Sustainability 1537 Energy and Waste Management 155Charles J. ‘Chuck’ Bennett and Michael S. Brown7.1 Introduction to Energy and Waste Management in the Cosmetics Industry 1557.1.1 Global Resource Constraints and the Challenge for Business 1557.1.2 Energy Issues and the Cosmetics Industry 1567.1.3 Wastes and Personal Care Products 1587.2 Aveda – the Company 1597.3 Energy Management in Aveda 1617.3.1 Process Energy Opportunities 1627.3.2 Facility Energy Improvements 1627.3.3 Results and Current Situation 1637.3.4 Renewable Energy and Emissions Offsets 1647.3.5 Other Dimensions of Aveda’s Energy Management – Shipping and Product Use 1667.4 Waste Management at Aveda 1677.4.1 Waste Management in Operations 1677.4.2 Recycling beyond Blaine 1697.4.3 Products and Packaging 1697.5 Summary 173References 1738 Corporate Social Responsibility and Philanthropy 175Part 1: Introduction 175Amarjit Sahota8.1.1 Corporate Social Responsibility 1758.1.2 Corporate Philanthropy 176References 178Part 2: BURT’S BEES® Case Study 178Paula Alexander8.2.1 Value-Driven Sustainability Leadership 1808.2.2 The Greater Good Business Model: An Integrated Approach to Sustainability 1818.2.3 Strategic Giving 1848.2.4 Employee Engagement 1868.2.5 Summary 188References 188Part 3: Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps: Business as Activism 189David Bronner8.3.1 Introduction 1898.3.2 Company Background 1898.3.3 Fair Trade Projects 1918.3.4 Corporate Activism 1948.3.5 Summary 1959 Green Formulations and Ingredients 197Judi Beerling9.1 Introduction 1979.2 Definitions 1989.2.1 Synthetic Ingredient 1989.2.2 Natural Ingredient 1989.2.3 Naturally Derived Ingredient 1999.2.4 Nature Identical Ingredient 1999.2.5 Organic 1999.3 How Natural are Current Market Products? 2009.4 Synthetic Ingredients Normally Absent from Natural/Organic Cosmetics 2029.5 Available Green Replacements for Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients 2049.6 Formulation Issues with Green Ingredients 2149.7 Summary 214References 21510 Green Standards, Certification and Indices 217Judi Beerling and Amarjit Sahota10.1 Introduction 21710.2 Natural and Organic Cosmetic Standards 21810.2.1 Major European Standards for Natural and Organic Products 21910.2.2 BDIH (Germany) 21910.2.3 Ecocert Greenlife (France) 22010.2.4 CosmeBio (France) 22110.2.5 Soil Association (UK) 22110.2.6 ICEA (Italy) 22210.2.7 COSMOS 22210.2.8 Natrue (Belgium) 22410.2.9 Other European Standards 22510.2.10 Major North American Standards 22510.2.11 USDA/NOP 22610.2.12 NSF International 22610.2.13 NPA (Natural Products Association) 22710.2.14 Standards in Other Regions 22810.2.15 Comparison of the Key Requirements of the Ecocert Greenlife, COSMOS and Natrue Standards 22910.3 Fair Trade Labels 22910.4 Other Eco-Labels 23110.4.1 Eco Flower – The European Eco-Label 23110.4.2 Nordic Swan – The Nordic Ecolabel 23210.4.3 Others in Europe 23210.4.4 Green Seal USA 23210.4.5 USDA Biobased Product Certification 23310.4.6 Carbon Labels 23310.5 Other Sustainability Standards and Indices 23410.5.1 ISO Standards 14000 and 26000 23410.5.2 SA8000 23510.5.3 Other Standards 23610.5.4 Sustainable Indexes 236References 23711 Understanding Green Marketing 239Darrin C. Duber-Smith and Mason W. Rubin11.1 The “Why” of Sustainability 24011.2 The Green Consumer 24211.3 Best Green Practices 24411.4 Communication versus Reality: The Many Shades of Green 24511.4.1 Red Marketer 24511.4.2 Green Panderer 24711.4.3 Green Buffeteer 24811.4.4 Light Green Marketer 24911.4.5 Natural Green Marketer 25011.4.6 Deep Green Marketer 25111.5 Greener Than Thou 252References 25312 Marketing Case Studies 255Part 1: Yes ToTM Inc. 255Ido Leffler 12.1.1 The Background 25512.1.2 The Growth Path 25612.1.3 Marketing Strategy 25912.1.4 Product Positioning 26212.1.5 Distribution Growth and Brand Extensions 26312.1.6 Future Plans 264Part 2: Korres Natural Products 26512.2.1 George Korres From Herbal Remedies to Natural Products 26512.2.2 The Challenge 26712.2.3 Vision and Strategy 26812.2.4 Target Audience 27012.2.5 The Portfolio at a Glance 27012.2.6 Marketing and Positioning 27112.2.7 Beauty Made Honest 27212.2.8 Sustainability 27312.2.9 Global Presence 27412.2.10 A Closer Look 27612.2.11 A Success Case Study Starring . . . the Product 27712.2.12 The Future 277Part 3: Whole Foods Market 278Jody Villecco12.3.1 Introduction 27812.3.2 Body Care Quality Standards 27912.3.3 Whole Body Responsible Packaging 28512.3.4 Organic Body Care Labeling Standards 28612.3.5 Industry Recognition 28712.3.6 Conclusion 287References 28813 Targeting the Green Consumer 289Kathy Sheehan13.1 Introduction 28913.2 United States 29213.3 Western Europe 29513.4 China 29613.5 Latin America 29813.6 Conclusions 30014 Future Outlook 301Amarjit Sahota14.1 Preamble 30114.2 Sustainability 30114.3 Social Dimensions 30314.4 Green Cosmetics 30514.5 Responsible Consumption 30814.6 Role of Government and Legislation 31014.7 Benchmarking of Cosmetic Companies 31114.8 Conclusions 312References 314Index

EditorAmarjit Sahota President, Organic Monitor, London, UK

“Amarjit Sahota’s book is a well-researched and comprehensive snapshot on the different facets of sustainability in cosmetics today. This is the first, and currently, the only book on this hot topic; it’s a must read.”  (Chemistry & Industry, 14 July 2014)“This publication from Wiley collects a wide number of articles focusing on sustainability in cosmetics, 14 chapters, which represents a road map in this so sensitive issue. The authors are key experts from organizations involved in sustainability in the cosmetics industry issue with a relevant long experience.”  (H & PC Today, March/April 2014)

• About the Contributors xv Foreword xxiiiPreface xxvii1 Introduction to Sustainability 1Amarjit Sahota1.1 Introduction to Book 11.2 Introduction to Sustainability 21.3 Ethics in the Cosmetics Industry 31.4 Drivers of Sustainability 61.4.1 Rise in Ethical Consumerism 71.4.2 Pressure from the Media and NGOs 71.4.3 Environmental Changes and Finite Resources 81.4.4 Pressure from the Supply Chain 91.4.5 Laws and Regulation 91.4.6 Business Benefits 101.5 Sustainability Reporting 101.5.1 CSR and Sustainability Reports 101.5.2 Communicating to Consumers 111.6 Guide to Book Chapters 12References 152 Environmental Impacts of Cosmetic Products 17Part 1: The Growing Importance of Metrics 17Xavier Vital2.1.1 Corporate Carbon Footprinting 182.1.2 Ecodesign 252.1.3 Get Ready for the Future 272.1.4 Conclusions 30Acknowledgement 31References 31Part 2: Innovating to Reduce the Environmental Footprint, the L’Oreal Example 31Jean-Florent Campion, Rachel Barre, and Laurent Gilbert2.2.1 Introduction 312.2.2 Product Eco-Design 322.2.3 Responsible Sourcing and Biodiversity Preservation 352.2.4 Responsible Production 382.2.5 Reference Actions – Some Examples of Key Achievements 402.2.6 Conclusion 46Acknowledgements 46References 463 The Social Footprint of a Beauty Company 47Bas Schneiders3.1 The Relationship between Cosmetics and Sustainability 473.2 The Growing Significance of Sustainability 483.2.1 Current Situation 483.2.2 Solution Strategies 493.3 Sustainability as a Social Challenge for Cosmetics Companies 503.3.1 Social Footprinting 503.3.2 Critical Areas with Social Impacts 503.3.3 Social Diversity and Differentiation 523.4 Case Study: Weleda: A Value-Oriented Business 533.4.1 Ethical Sourcing 553.4.2 Employee Policy 623.4.3 Corporate Philanthropy 653.4.4 Economic Sustainability and Value Creation 663.5 Conclusions 68Recommended Reading 68References 684 Ethical Sourcing of Raw Materials 69Part 1: Ethical Sourcing – The Givaudan Approach 69Remi Pulverail4.1.1 The Business Case for Ethical Sourcing 694.1.2 Making Ethical Sourcing a Reality 704.1.3 Working with Customers 714.1.4 Building Supplier Partnerships 724.1.5 Securing the Future of Benzoin in Laos 724.1.6 Tracing the Origins of Ethical Vanilla in Madagascar 744.1.7 Moh´eli Partnership Rediscovers Ylang Ylang 764.1.8 Equipment Loans Support Sustainable Sandalwood Production 774.1.9 Protecting Biodiversity and Tonka Bean Supply in Venezuela 794.1.10 Is Natural Sustainable? 804.1.11 Conclusion 80Part 2: Innovation and Ethical Sourcing – Beraca’s Experience 81Filipe Tomazelli Sabara4.2.1 Introduction 814.2.2 Challenges Related to Ethical Sourcing 824.2.3 Beraca and the Biodiversity Enhancement Programme 834.2.4 Working in Partnership with Local Communities 854.2.5 Success Stories 894.2.6 What is Yet to be Achieved 934.2.7 Conclusion 94References 955 Biodiversity in the Cosmetics Industry 97Eduardo Escobedo and Rik Kutsch Lojenga5.1 Introduction 975.1.1 The Critical Loss of Biodiversity and Its Impact on the Cosmetics Industry 995.2 Why Should the Cosmetics Industry Care about Protecting Biodiversity? 1005.2.1 Biodiversity as a Sound Business Strategy 1015.2.2 Ecosystem Services 1025.3 How is the Policy Arena Changing and What Implications Does This Have for the Industry? 1035.3.1 The Convention on Biological Diversity 1035.3.2 The Strategic Plan for Biodiversity 1045.3.3 The Nagoya Protocol 1065.3.4 The Convention on International Trade of Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna (CITES) 1075.4 Biodiversity Barometer: Consumer Views and Expectations on Biodiversity 1095.4.1 Biodiversity Awareness is Growing 1105.4.2 Increased Awareness Brings Greater Expectations 1115.4.3 Opportunities for Pioneering Companies 1115.5 Ethical Sourcing in Practice 1145.5.1 Putting Ethical Sourcing of Biodiversity into Practice 1145.5.2 Conservation of Biodiversity 1165.5.3 Sustainable Use of Biodiversity 1185.5.4 Fair and Equitable Benefit Sharing 1205.6 Conclusions 124References 1256 Sustainable Packaging 127Part 1: Introduction 127Amarjit SahotaReferences 129Part 2: Sustainable Packaging for Cosmetic Products – Using Biobased Carbon Content and Designing for End-of-Life 129Ramani Narayan6.2.1 Introduction 1296.2.2 Carbon Footprint Value Proposition 1306.2.3 Material Carbon Versus Process Carbon Footprint 1316.2.4 Exemplars of Zero Material Carbon Footprint Resins 1326.2.5 Measuring Biobased Carbon Content 1346.2.6 End-of-Life for the Packaging – Recycling and Biodegradable-Compostability 1356.2.7 Science of Biodegradability 1366.2.8 Summary 138References 139Part 3: The Role of Design for Sustainable Packaging 139Anne van Haeften6.3.1 Introduction 1396.3.2 The Design Agency 1406.3.3 Packaging Design 1416.3.4 The Brand 1426.3.5 Innovation and Design 1446.3.6 Graphical Component 1446.3.7 Post-Use Packaging 1456.3.8 Lush Case Study: Get Naked! 1456.3.9 Conclusion 147References 148Part 4: Sustainable Packaging – Aveda Case Study 148John A. Delfausse6.4.1 A Commitment to the Environment – the Aveda Mission 1486.4.2 Direction from the Top 1486.4.3 A Great Beginning 1496.4.4 Real Sustainability 1537 Energy and Waste Management 155Charles J. ‘Chuck’ Bennett and Michael S. Brown7.1 Introduction to Energy and Waste Management in the Cosmetics Industry 1557.1.1 Global Resource Constraints and the Challenge for Business 1557.1.2 Energy Issues and the Cosmetics Industry 1567.1.3 Wastes and Personal Care Products 1587.2 Aveda – the Company 1597.3 Energy Management in Aveda 1617.3.1 Process Energy Opportunities 1627.3.2 Facility Energy Improvements 1627.3.3 Results and Current Situation 1637.3.4 Renewable Energy and Emissions Offsets 1647.3.5 Other Dimensions of Aveda’s Energy Management – Shipping and Product Use 1667.4 Waste Management at Aveda 1677.4.1 Waste Management in Operations 1677.4.2 Recycling beyond Blaine 1697.4.3 Products and Packaging 1697.5 Summary 173References 1738 Corporate Social Responsibility and Philanthropy 175Part 1: Introduction 175Amarjit Sahota8.1.1 Corporate Social Responsibility 1758.1.2 Corporate Philanthropy 176References 178Part 2: BURT’S BEES® Case Study 178Paula Alexander8.2.1 Value-Driven Sustainability Leadership 1808.2.2 The Greater Good Business Model: An Integrated Approach to Sustainability 1818.2.3 Strategic Giving 1848.2.4 Employee Engagement 1868.2.5 Summary 188References 188Part 3: Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps: Business as Activism 189David Bronner8.3.1 Introduction 1898.3.2 Company Background 1898.3.3 Fair Trade Projects 1918.3.4 Corporate Activism 1948.3.5 Summary 1959 Green Formulations and Ingredients 197Judi Beerling9.1 Introduction 1979.2 Definitions 1989.2.1 Synthetic Ingredient 1989.2.2 Natural Ingredient 1989.2.3 Naturally Derived Ingredient 1999.2.4 Nature Identical Ingredient 1999.2.5 Organic 1999.3 How Natural are Current Market Products? 2009.4 Synthetic Ingredients Normally Absent from Natural/Organic Cosmetics 2029.5 Available Green Replacements for Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients 2049.6 Formulation Issues with Green Ingredients 2149.7 Summary 214References 21510 Green Standards, Certification and Indices 217Judi Beerling and Amarjit Sahota10.1 Introduction 21710.2 Natural and Organic Cosmetic Standards 21810.2.1 Major European Standards for Natural and Organic Products 21910.2.2 BDIH (Germany) 21910.2.3 Ecocert Greenlife (France) 22010.2.4 CosmeBio (France) 22110.2.5 Soil Association (UK) 22110.2.6 ICEA (Italy) 22210.2.7 COSMOS 22210.2.8 Natrue (Belgium) 22410.2.9 Other European Standards 22510.2.10 Major North American Standards 22510.2.11 USDA/NOP 22610.2.12 NSF International 22610.2.13 NPA (Natural Products Association) 22710.2.14 Standards in Other Regions 22810.2.15 Comparison of the Key Requirements of the Ecocert Greenlife, COSMOS and Natrue Standards 22910.3 Fair Trade Labels 22910.4 Other Eco-Labels 23110.4.1 Eco Flower – The European Eco-Label 23110.4.2 Nordic Swan – The Nordic Ecolabel 23210.4.3 Others in Europe 23210.4.4 Green Seal USA 23210.4.5 USDA Biobased Product Certification 23310.4.6 Carbon Labels 23310.5 Other Sustainability Standards and Indices 23410.5.1 ISO Standards 14000 and 26000 23410.5.2 SA8000 23510.5.3 Other Standards 23610.5.4 Sustainable Indexes 236References 23711 Understanding Green Marketing 239Darrin C. Duber-Smith and Mason W. Rubin11.1 The “Why” of Sustainability 24011.2 The Green Consumer 24211.3 Best Green Practices 24411.4 Communication versus Reality: The Many Shades of Green 24511.4.1 Red Marketer 24511.4.2 Green Panderer 24711.4.3 Green Buffeteer 24811.4.4 Light Green Marketer 24911.4.5 Natural Green Marketer 25011.4.6 Deep Green Marketer 25111.5 Greener Than Thou 252References 25312 Marketing Case Studies 255Part 1: Yes ToTM Inc. 255Ido Leffler 12.1.1 The Background 25512.1.2 The Growth Path 25612.1.3 Marketing Strategy 25912.1.4 Product Positioning 26212.1.5 Distribution Growth and Brand Extensions 26312.1.6 Future Plans 264Part 2: Korres Natural Products 26512.2.1 George Korres From Herbal Remedies to Natural Products 26512.2.2 The Challenge 26712.2.3 Vision and Strategy 26812.2.4 Target Audience 27012.2.5 The Portfolio at a Glance 27012.2.6 Marketing and Positioning 27112.2.7 Beauty Made Honest 27212.2.8 Sustainability 27312.2.9 Global Presence 27412.2.10 A Closer Look 27612.2.11 A Success Case Study Starring . . . the Product 27712.2.12 The Future 277Part 3: Whole Foods Market 278Jody Villecco12.3.1 Introduction 27812.3.2 Body Care Quality Standards 27912.3.3 Whole Body Responsible Packaging 28512.3.4 Organic Body Care Labeling Standards 28612.3.5 Industry Recognition 28712.3.6 Conclusion 287References 28813 Targeting the Green Consumer 289Kathy Sheehan13.1 Introduction 28913.2 United States 29213.3 Western Europe 29513.4 China 29613.5 Latin America 29813.6 Conclusions 30014 Future Outlook 301Amarjit Sahota14.1 Preamble 30114.2 Sustainability 30114.3 Social Dimensions 30314.4 Green Cosmetics 30514.5 Responsible Consumption 30814.6 Role of Government and Legislation 31014.7 Benchmarking of Cosmetic Companies 31114.8 Conclusions 312References 314Index

EditorAmarjit Sahota President, Organic Monitor, London, UK

“Amarjit Sahota’s book is a well-researched and comprehensive snapshot on the different facets of sustainability in cosmetics today. This is the first, and currently, the only book on this hot topic; it’s a must read.”  (Chemistry & Industry, 14 July 2014)“This publication from Wiley collects a wide number of articles focusing on sustainability in cosmetics, 14 chapters, which represents a road map in this so sensitive issue. The authors are key experts from organizations involved in sustainability in the cosmetics industry issue with a relevant long experience.”  (H & PC Today, March/April 2014)

• About the Contributors xv Foreword xxiiiPreface xxvii1 Introduction to Sustainability 1Amarjit Sahota1.1 Introduction to Book 11.2 Introduction to Sustainability 21.3 Ethics in the Cosmetics Industry 31.4 Drivers of Sustainability 61.4.1 Rise in Ethical Consumerism 71.4.2 Pressure from the Media and NGOs 71.4.3 Environmental Changes and Finite Resources 81.4.4 Pressure from the Supply Chain 91.4.5 Laws and Regulation 91.4.6 Business Benefits 101.5 Sustainability Reporting 101.5.1 CSR and Sustainability Reports 101.5.2 Communicating to Consumers 111.6 Guide to Book Chapters 12References 152 Environmental Impacts of Cosmetic Products 17Part 1: The Growing Importance of Metrics 17Xavier Vital2.1.1 Corporate Carbon Footprinting 182.1.2 Ecodesign 252.1.3 Get Ready for the Future 272.1.4 Conclusions 30Acknowledgement 31References 31Part 2: Innovating to Reduce the Environmental Footprint, the L’Oreal Example 31Jean-Florent Campion, Rachel Barre, and Laurent Gilbert2.2.1 Introduction 312.2.2 Product Eco-Design 322.2.3 Responsible Sourcing and Biodiversity Preservation 352.2.4 Responsible Production 382.2.5 Reference Actions – Some Examples of Key Achievements 402.2.6 Conclusion 46Acknowledgements 46References 463 The Social Footprint of a Beauty Company 47Bas Schneiders3.1 The Relationship between Cosmetics and Sustainability 473.2 The Growing Significance of Sustainability 483.2.1 Current Situation 483.2.2 Solution Strategies 493.3 Sustainability as a Social Challenge for Cosmetics Companies 503.3.1 Social Footprinting 503.3.2 Critical Areas with Social Impacts 503.3.3 Social Diversity and Differentiation 523.4 Case Study: Weleda: A Value-Oriented Business 533.4.1 Ethical Sourcing 553.4.2 Employee Policy 623.4.3 Corporate Philanthropy 653.4.4 Economic Sustainability and Value Creation 663.5 Conclusions 68Recommended Reading 68References 684 Ethical Sourcing of Raw Materials 69Part 1: Ethical Sourcing – The Givaudan Approach 69Remi Pulverail4.1.1 The Business Case for Ethical Sourcing 694.1.2 Making Ethical Sourcing a Reality 704.1.3 Working with Customers 714.1.4 Building Supplier Partnerships 724.1.5 Securing the Future of Benzoin in Laos 724.1.6 Tracing the Origins of Ethical Vanilla in Madagascar 744.1.7 Moh´eli Partnership Rediscovers Ylang Ylang 764.1.8 Equipment Loans Support Sustainable Sandalwood Production 774.1.9 Protecting Biodiversity and Tonka Bean Supply in Venezuela 794.1.10 Is Natural Sustainable? 804.1.11 Conclusion 80Part 2: Innovation and Ethical Sourcing – Beraca’s Experience 81Filipe Tomazelli Sabara4.2.1 Introduction 814.2.2 Challenges Related to Ethical Sourcing 824.2.3 Beraca and the Biodiversity Enhancement Programme 834.2.4 Working in Partnership with Local Communities 854.2.5 Success Stories 894.2.6 What is Yet to be Achieved 934.2.7 Conclusion 94References 955 Biodiversity in the Cosmetics Industry 97Eduardo Escobedo and Rik Kutsch Lojenga5.1 Introduction 975.1.1 The Critical Loss of Biodiversity and Its Impact on the Cosmetics Industry 995.2 Why Should the Cosmetics Industry Care about Protecting Biodiversity? 1005.2.1 Biodiversity as a Sound Business Strategy 1015.2.2 Ecosystem Services 1025.3 How is the Policy Arena Changing and What Implications Does This Have for the Industry? 1035.3.1 The Convention on Biological Diversity 1035.3.2 The Strategic Plan for Biodiversity 1045.3.3 The Nagoya Protocol 1065.3.4 The Convention on International Trade of Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna (CITES) 1075.4 Biodiversity Barometer: Consumer Views and Expectations on Biodiversity 1095.4.1 Biodiversity Awareness is Growing 1105.4.2 Increased Awareness Brings Greater Expectations 1115.4.3 Opportunities for Pioneering Companies 1115.5 Ethical Sourcing in Practice 1145.5.1 Putting Ethical Sourcing of Biodiversity into Practice 1145.5.2 Conservation of Biodiversity 1165.5.3 Sustainable Use of Biodiversity 1185.5.4 Fair and Equitable Benefit Sharing 1205.6 Conclusions 124References 1256 Sustainable Packaging 127Part 1: Introduction 127Amarjit SahotaReferences 129Part 2: Sustainable Packaging for Cosmetic Products – Using Biobased Carbon Content and Designing for End-of-Life 129Ramani Narayan6.2.1 Introduction 1296.2.2 Carbon Footprint Value Proposition 1306.2.3 Material Carbon Versus Process Carbon Footprint 1316.2.4 Exemplars of Zero Material Carbon Footprint Resins 1326.2.5 Measuring Biobased Carbon Content 1346.2.6 End-of-Life for the Packaging – Recycling and Biodegradable-Compostability 1356.2.7 Science of Biodegradability 1366.2.8 Summary 138References 139Part 3: The Role of Design for Sustainable Packaging 139Anne van Haeften6.3.1 Introduction 1396.3.2 The Design Agency 1406.3.3 Packaging Design 1416.3.4 The Brand 1426.3.5 Innovation and Design 1446.3.6 Graphical Component 1446.3.7 Post-Use Packaging 1456.3.8 Lush Case Study: Get Naked! 1456.3.9 Conclusion 147References 148Part 4: Sustainable Packaging – Aveda Case Study 148John A. Delfausse6.4.1 A Commitment to the Environment – the Aveda Mission 1486.4.2 Direction from the Top 1486.4.3 A Great Beginning 1496.4.4 Real Sustainability 1537 Energy and Waste Management 155Charles J. ‘Chuck’ Bennett and Michael S. Brown7.1 Introduction to Energy and Waste Management in the Cosmetics Industry 1557.1.1 Global Resource Constraints and the Challenge for Business 1557.1.2 Energy Issues and the Cosmetics Industry 1567.1.3 Wastes and Personal Care Products 1587.2 Aveda – the Company 1597.3 Energy Management in Aveda 1617.3.1 Process Energy Opportunities 1627.3.2 Facility Energy Improvements 1627.3.3 Results and Current Situation 1637.3.4 Renewable Energy and Emissions Offsets 1647.3.5 Other Dimensions of Aveda’s Energy Management – Shipping and Product Use 1667.4 Waste Management at Aveda 1677.4.1 Waste Management in Operations 1677.4.2 Recycling beyond Blaine 1697.4.3 Products and Packaging 1697.5 Summary 173References 1738 Corporate Social Responsibility and Philanthropy 175Part 1: Introduction 175Amarjit Sahota8.1.1 Corporate Social Responsibility 1758.1.2 Corporate Philanthropy 176References 178Part 2: BURT’S BEES® Case Study 178Paula Alexander8.2.1 Value-Driven Sustainability Leadership 1808.2.2 The Greater Good Business Model: An Integrated Approach to Sustainability 1818.2.3 Strategic Giving 1848.2.4 Employee Engagement 1868.2.5 Summary 188References 188Part 3: Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps: Business as Activism 189David Bronner8.3.1 Introduction 1898.3.2 Company Background 1898.3.3 Fair Trade Projects 1918.3.4 Corporate Activism 1948.3.5 Summary 1959 Green Formulations and Ingredients 197Judi Beerling9.1 Introduction 1979.2 Definitions 1989.2.1 Synthetic Ingredient 1989.2.2 Natural Ingredient 1989.2.3 Naturally Derived Ingredient 1999.2.4 Nature Identical Ingredient 1999.2.5 Organic 1999.3 How Natural are Current Market Products? 2009.4 Synthetic Ingredients Normally Absent from Natural/Organic Cosmetics 2029.5 Available Green Replacements for Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients 2049.6 Formulation Issues with Green Ingredients 2149.7 Summary 214References 21510 Green Standards, Certification and Indices 217Judi Beerling and Amarjit Sahota10.1 Introduction 21710.2 Natural and Organic Cosmetic Standards 21810.2.1 Major European Standards for Natural and Organic Products 21910.2.2 BDIH (Germany) 21910.2.3 Ecocert Greenlife (France) 22010.2.4 CosmeBio (France) 22110.2.5 Soil Association (UK) 22110.2.6 ICEA (Italy) 22210.2.7 COSMOS 22210.2.8 Natrue (Belgium) 22410.2.9 Other European Standards 22510.2.10 Major North American Standards 22510.2.11 USDA/NOP 22610.2.12 NSF International 22610.2.13 NPA (Natural Products Association) 22710.2.14 Standards in Other Regions 22810.2.15 Comparison of the Key Requirements of the Ecocert Greenlife, COSMOS and Natrue Standards 22910.3 Fair Trade Labels 22910.4 Other Eco-Labels 23110.4.1 Eco Flower – The European Eco-Label 23110.4.2 Nordic Swan – The Nordic Ecolabel 23210.4.3 Others in Europe 23210.4.4 Green Seal USA 23210.4.5 USDA Biobased Product Certification 23310.4.6 Carbon Labels 23310.5 Other Sustainability Standards and Indices 23410.5.1 ISO Standards 14000 and 26000 23410.5.2 SA8000 23510.5.3 Other Standards 23610.5.4 Sustainable Indexes 236References 23711 Understanding Green Marketing 239Darrin C. Duber-Smith and Mason W. Rubin11.1 The “Why” of Sustainability 24011.2 The Green Consumer 24211.3 Best Green Practices 24411.4 Communication versus Reality: The Many Shades of Green 24511.4.1 Red Marketer 24511.4.2 Green Panderer 24711.4.3 Green Buffeteer 24811.4.4 Light Green Marketer 24911.4.5 Natural Green Marketer 25011.4.6 Deep Green Marketer 25111.5 Greener Than Thou 252References 25312 Marketing Case Studies 255Part 1: Yes ToTM Inc. 255Ido Leffler 12.1.1 The Background 25512.1.2 The Growth Path 25612.1.3 Marketing Strategy 25912.1.4 Product Positioning 26212.1.5 Distribution Growth and Brand Extensions 26312.1.6 Future Plans 264Part 2: Korres Natural Products 26512.2.1 George Korres From Herbal Remedies to Natural Products 26512.2.2 The Challenge 26712.2.3 Vision and Strategy 26812.2.4 Target Audience 27012.2.5 The Portfolio at a Glance 27012.2.6 Marketing and Positioning 27112.2.7 Beauty Made Honest 27212.2.8 Sustainability 27312.2.9 Global Presence 27412.2.10 A Closer Look 27612.2.11 A Success Case Study Starring . . . the Product 27712.2.12 The Future 277Part 3: Whole Foods Market 278Jody Villecco12.3.1 Introduction 27812.3.2 Body Care Quality Standards 27912.3.3 Whole Body Responsible Packaging 28512.3.4 Organic Body Care Labeling Standards 28612.3.5 Industry Recognition 28712.3.6 Conclusion 287References 28813 Targeting the Green Consumer 289Kathy Sheehan13.1 Introduction 28913.2 United States 29213.3 Western Europe 29513.4 China 29613.5 Latin America 29813.6 Conclusions 30014 Future Outlook 301Amarjit Sahota14.1 Preamble 30114.2 Sustainability 30114.3 Social Dimensions 30314.4 Green Cosmetics 30514.5 Responsible Consumption 30814.6 Role of Government and Legislation 31014.7 Benchmarking of Cosmetic Companies 31114.8 Conclusions 312References 314Index