Turkey Red

Häftad, Engelska, 2024

Del i serien Textiles that Changed the World

388 kr

Beställningsvara. Skickas inom 7-10 vardagar. Fri frakt över 249 kr.

Beskrivning

Shortlisted for the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award 2025This multi-disciplinary study examines the exceptional Turkey red textile dyeing process and product. Prized for its brilliant colour and durability, yet notoriously difficult to produce, the textile was consumed locally and exported around the world. Considered one of the first instances of industrial espionage, the expansion of the Turkey red industry is closely linked to the Industrial Revolution and the emergence of a new global economy. Significant technological advances in chemistry and dyeing were motivated by the demands of Turkey red dyers and printers, who were located primarily in the west of Scotland, the north of England, and around Mulhouse, Switzerland.This book explores the arc of the Turkey red industry, the evolution of the process through key producers and technical developments, the complicated printing process, and finishes with an examination of significant Turkey red collections and a selection of object case studies. The chemistry of the process is described in an accessible, contextual manner, highlighting the significance of the distinctive technique that yielded the best red attainable on cotton.Drawing on both historical and contemporary study, Turkey Red presents significant new research on the material characterisation of this fascinating, eye-catching textile, and offers an in-depth historical example of the global effect of textile consumption.

Produktinformation

Utgivningsdatum:2024-02-22
Mått:188 x 244 x 13 mm
Vikt:545 g
Format:Häftad
Språk:Engelska
Serie:Textiles that Changed the World
Antal sidor:232
Förlag:Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
ISBN:9781350216501

Utforska kategorier

Mer om författaren

Julie Wertz is Beal Family Postgraduate Fellow in Conservation Science at Harvard Art Museums, USA.

Recensioner i media

A glossary, a list of chemicals, a detailed list of the footnotes which frequent the text, and an extensive list of references complete this very well-written book, which should be of much interest to the serious practising natural dyer, as well as many other textile enthusiasts.

Innehållsförteckning

List of FiguresPrefaceAcknowledgmentsNote on the textIntroduction1. The Most Brilliant Color Dyed on Cotton1.1. Defining Turkey red1.1.1. A reputable red1.1.2. A complicated process1.2. Identifying Turkey red1.3. Material record1.4. Conclusion2. Global Exchanges and Anthraquinone Dyes2.1. The origin and dissemination of Turkey red2.1.1. India2.1.2. Indonesia2.1.3. The Levant and the Ottoman Empire2.1.4. The Hapsburg Empire2.1.5. France2.1.6. Britain2.2. Madder2.2.1. The cultivation of madder2.2.2. Madder composition and derivatives2.3. Synthetic alizarin2.3.1. Understanding alizarin2.3.2. Alizarin synthesis and patent disputes2.3.3. Synthetic alizarin products2.4. Conclusion3. The Dyeing, Chemistry, and Technological Advances of Turkey Red3.1 Oiling3.1.1Oiling in the old process3.1.2The chemistry of oiled cotton3.1.3Ruminant dung and tannins3.1.4Turkey red oil and the new process3.1.5The Steiner process3.2 Aluminium3.2.1Precipitated aluminium soaps3.3 Dyeing3.3.1Color complexes in Turkey red3.3.2 Blood and albumen3.4. Clearing3.5. Conclusions4. Printed Turkey Red4.1. Textile printing methods 4.2. Discharge printing1.1.3.Lead plate press discharging1.1.4.Acid paste discharging4.3. A bright palette1.1.5.Black, blue, yellow, and green1.1.6.Identifying colorants on Turkey red prints4.4. Design1.1.7.Industrial design and production1.1.8.European design for the export market4.5. Conclusions5. Turkey Red in the Industrial Revolution5.1. Turkey red industry by country5.1.1.France5.1.2. England5.1.3. Scotland5.1.4. Switzerland5.1.5. The Netherlands5.1.6. North America5.1.7. Other locations5.2. Working conditions and labor5.3. Colonialism5.4. Conclusions6. Trade, Use, and Object Record6.1. Documentary evidence of availability6.2. How Turkey red was used6.2.1. Bandanas6.2.2. Domestic textiles, quilts and bedcovers6.2.3. Accessories, garments, and tools6.3.ConclusionsConclusionsGlossaryReferencesIndex