An outstanding and comprehensive contribution to the history of Tartan. – TelegraphFeaturing new insights and an additional chapter on masculinities, this updated edition of Tartan revitalizes discussions about the fabric’s traditional, sentimental Highland origins and its deliberate subversion by contemporary designers. Tartan’s history has made it uniquely capable of expressing both conformity and subversion, tradition and innovation. Through positioning tartan within broader philosophical, political and cultural contexts, from the tartan-clad Highland regiments and Queen Victoria’s royal endorsement, to the fabric’s influence on Westwood and McQueen and a generation of Japanese designers such as Watanabe and Takahashi, Jonathan Faiers traces tartan's development from clanship to contemporary fashion and its enormous domestic and global impact.Beautifully illustrated and weaving together a story out of history, art, music, film and fashion, Tartan demonstrates that this most traditional and radical fabric has become one of extraordinary versatility and far-reaching appeal.

Shortlisted for the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award 2025This multi-disciplinary study examines the exceptional Turkey red textile dyeing process and product. Prized for its brilliant colour and durability, yet notoriously difficult to produce, the textile was consumed locally and exported around the world. Considered one of the first instances of industrial espionage, the expansion of the Turkey red industry is closely linked to the Industrial Revolution and the emergence of a new global economy. Significant technological advances in chemistry and dyeing were motivated by the demands of Turkey red dyers and printers, who were located primarily in the west of Scotland, the north of England, and around Mulhouse, Switzerland.This book explores the arc of the Turkey red industry, the evolution of the process through key producers and technical developments, the complicated printing process, and finishes with an examination of significant Turkey red collections and a selection of object case studies. The chemistry of the process is described in an accessible, contextual manner, highlighting the significance of the distinctive technique that yielded the best red attainable on cotton.Drawing on both historical and contemporary study, Turkey Red presents significant new research on the material characterisation of this fascinating, eye-catching textile, and offers an in-depth historical example of the global effect of textile consumption.

This multi-disciplinary study examines the exceptional Turkey red textile dyeing process and product. Prized for its brilliant colour and durability, yet notoriously difficult to produce, the textile was consumed locally and exported around the world. Considered one of the first instances of industrial espionage, the expansion of the Turkey red industry is closely linked to the Industrial Revolution and the emergence of a new global economy. Significant technological advances in chemistry and dyeing were motivated by the demands of Turkey red dyers and printers, who were located primarily in the west of Scotland, the north of England, and around Mulhouse, Switzerland.This book explores the arc of the Turkey red industry, the evolution of the process through key producers and technical developments, the complicated printing process, and finishes with an examination of significant Turkey red collections and a selection of object case studies. The chemistry of the process is described in an accessible, contextual manner, highlighting the significance of the distinctive technique that yielded the best red attainable on cotton.Drawing on both historical and contemporary study, Turkey Red presents significant new research on the material characterisation of this fascinating, eye-catching textile, and offers an in-depth historical example of the global effect of textile consumption.

This multi-disciplinary study examines the exceptional Turkey red textile dyeing process and product. Prized for its brilliant colour and durability, yet notoriously difficult to produce, the textile was consumed locally and exported around the world. Considered one of the first instances of industrial espionage, the expansion of the Turkey red industry is closely linked to the Industrial Revolution and the emergence of a new global economy. Significant technological advances in chemistry and dyeing were motivated by the demands of Turkey red dyers and printers, who were located primarily in the west of Scotland, the north of England, and around Mulhouse, Switzerland.This book explores the arc of the Turkey red industry, the evolution of the process through key producers and technical developments, the complicated printing process, and finishes with an examination of significant Turkey red collections and a selection of object case studies. The chemistry of the process is described in an accessible, contextual manner, highlighting the significance of the distinctive technique that yielded the best red attainable on cotton.Drawing on both historical and contemporary study, Turkey Red presents significant new research on the material characterisation of this fascinating, eye-catching textile, and offers an in-depth historical example of the global effect of textile consumption.

The development of digital textile printing at the end of the twentieth century has had a profound effect on the design, creation, use and understanding of textiles. This new technology - combined with advances in fabric and dye chemistry - has made it possible to produce complex images on fabric comprising millions of colours, quickly, inexpensively and in flexible quantities; a revolution that has led to a rapid increase in demand, which is predicted to rise still further.This book is the first to describe the historical and cultural context from which digital textile printing emerged, and to engage critically with the many issues that it raises: the changing role of the designer in the creation of printed textiles; the ways in which the design process is being transformed by new technology; the relationships between producers, clients and the textile industry; and the impact of digital printing on the wider creative industries. At the core of this study are two key questions: what constitutes authenticity in an age when printed textiles are created through the combined agency of the artist/designer and the computer? And how can this new technology be put to work in a sustainable way during a period of spiralling demand?

The development of digital textile printing at the end of the twentieth century has had a profound effect on the design, creation, use and understanding of textiles. This new technology - combined with advances in fabric and dye chemistry - has made it possible to produce complex images on fabric comprising millions of colours, quickly, inexpensively and in flexible quantities; a revolution that has led to a rapid increase in demand, which is predicted to rise still further.This book is the first to describe the historical and cultural context from which digital textile printing emerged, and to engage critically with the many issues that it raises: the changing role of the designer in the creation of printed textiles; the ways in which the design process is being transformed by new technology; the relationships between producers, clients and the textile industry; and the impact of digital printing on the wider creative industries. At the core of this study are two key questions: what constitutes authenticity in an age when printed textiles are created through the combined agency of the artist/designer and the computer? And how can this new technology be put to work in a sustainable way during a period of spiralling demand?

The development of digital textile printing at the end of the twentieth century has had a profound effect on the design, creation, use and understanding of textiles. This new technology - combined with advances in fabric and dye chemistry - has made it possible to produce complex images on fabric comprising millions of colours, quickly, inexpensively and in flexible quantities; a revolution that has led to a rapid increase in demand, which is predicted to rise still further.This book is the first to describe the historical and cultural context from which digital textile printing emerged, and to engage critically with the many issues that it raises: the changing role of the designer in the creation of printed textiles; the ways in which the design process is being transformed by new technology; the relationships between producers, clients and the textile industry; and the impact of digital printing on the wider creative industries. At the core of this study are two key questions: what constitutes authenticity in an age when printed textiles are created through the combined agency of the artist/designer and the computer? And how can this new technology be put to work in a sustainable way during a period of spiralling demand?

The development of digital textile printing at the end of the twentieth century has had a profound effect on the design, creation, use and understanding of textiles. This new technology - combined with advances in fabric and dye chemistry - has made it possible to produce complex images on fabric comprising millions of colours, quickly, inexpensively and in flexible quantities; a revolution that has led to a rapid increase in demand, which is predicted to rise still further.This book is the first to describe the historical and cultural context from which digital textile printing emerged, and to engage critically with the many issues that it raises: the changing role of the designer in the creation of printed textiles; the ways in which the design process is being transformed by new technology; the relationships between producers, clients and the textile industry; and the impact of digital printing on the wider creative industries. At the core of this study are two key questions: what constitutes authenticity in an age when printed textiles are created through the combined agency of the artist/designer and the computer? And how can this new technology be put to work in a sustainable way during a period of spiralling demand?

The story of tweed is tied to a series of social, economic and cultural shifts that have molded its development. This book considers the historical factors that helped to shape the design characteristics and social meanings of the group of fabrics that we call tweed, from their emergence in the 1820s to the present day. Including significant new research on tweeds, from Harris Tweed to the type used by Chanel, this book follows the history of these fabrics from the raw fiber to the finished garment in men''s and women''s fashion.Exploring rural and urban contexts, this book reveals the important physical and conceptual relationships of tweed with landscape. Anderson shows that, contrary to their strong popular associations with tradition, tweeds emerged in the Romantic era as a response to the dramatic changes associated with industrialization and urbanization. Progressive changes in gender relations are also explored as a major factor in tweed''s evolution, from associations with particular ideals of masculinity into what is now a truly adaptable fashion textile worn by both sexes. This is the first book of its kind to recognize the importance of tweed to fashion innovation today.

The story of tweed is tied to a series of social, economic and cultural shifts that have molded its development. This book considers the historical factors that helped to shape the design characteristics and social meanings of the group of fabrics that we call tweed, from their emergence in the 1820s to the present day. Including significant new research on tweeds, from Harris Tweed to the type used by Chanel, this book follows the history of these fabrics from the raw fiber to the finished garment in men''s and women''s fashion.Exploring rural and urban contexts, this book reveals the important physical and conceptual relationships of tweed with landscape. Anderson shows that, contrary to their strong popular associations with tradition, tweeds emerged in the Romantic era as a response to the dramatic changes associated with industrialization and urbanization. Progressive changes in gender relations are also explored as a major factor in tweed''s evolution, from associations with particular ideals of masculinity into what is now a truly adaptable fashion textile worn by both sexes. This is the first book of its kind to recognize the importance of tweed to fashion innovation today.

This book explores the fascinating history and present-day practices associated with cotton. This is a story of commercial and cultural enterprise, of the ties and tensions between East and West, of technological and industrial revolution, social modernization, colonialism and slavery. Cotton's history mirrors profound global transformations. And cotton remains one of the most significant mass commodities today.Cotton's track record on labor conditions in factories and plantations has tarnished its history and reputation, even as cotton clothes became the hallmark of modern industrialized society. Cotton expressed popular fashions and popular politics in dynamic ways. Yet cottons also take other cultural forms and are part of vibrant craft traditions in many parts of the world. This book explores the history, impact and ongoing life of this hugely influential textile.

From nomads' tents to poodle skirts, from car parts to Christmas tree ornaments, felt is one of the world's oldest and most understated textiles. Felt has developed simultaneously in multiple cultures, and often its origins are lost. However, far from having been supplanted by new fabrics, not only has felt retained its traditional uses among peoples around the world, but it has also seen a revival of popularity among today's hand feltmakers, craftspeople and fashion designers. This book follows the journey of felt through time, space, and purpose by pulling into focus a series of snapshots of different felting traditions. Beautifully illustrated, Felt covers the wide-ranging history and development of this most unassuming but ubiquitous of fabrics from the earliest archaeological evidence in the mountains of Siberia to the groundbreaking works of contemporary fiber arts and sculptors.

From nomads' tents to poodle skirts, from car parts to Christmas tree ornaments, felt is one of the world's oldest and most understated textiles. Felt has developed simultaneously in multiple cultures, and often its origins are lost. However, far from having been supplanted by new fabrics, not only has felt retained its traditional uses among peoples around the world, but it has also seen a revival of popularity among today's hand feltmakers, craftspeople and fashion designers. This book follows the journey of felt through time, space, and purpose by pulling into focus a series of snapshots of different felting traditions. Beautifully illustrated, Felt covers the wide-ranging history and development of this most unassuming but ubiquitous of fabrics from the earliest archaeological evidence in the mountains of Siberia to the groundbreaking works of contemporary fiber arts and sculptors.

An outstanding and comprehensive contribution to the history of Tartan. – TelegraphFeaturing new insights and an additional chapter on masculinities, this updated edition of Tartan revitalizes discussions about the fabric’s traditional, sentimental Highland origins and its deliberate subversion by contemporary designers. Tartan’s history has made it uniquely capable of expressing both conformity and subversion, tradition and innovation. Through positioning tartan within broader philosophical, political and cultural contexts, from the tartan-clad Highland regiments and Queen Victoria’s royal endorsement, to the fabric’s influence on Westwood and McQueen and a generation of Japanese designers such as Watanabe and Takahashi, Jonathan Faiers traces tartan's development from clanship to contemporary fashion and its enormous domestic and global impact.Beautifully illustrated and weaving together a story out of history, art, music, film and fashion, Tartan demonstrates that this most traditional and radical fabric has become one of extraordinary versatility and far-reaching appeal.

Shortlisted for the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award 2025This multi-disciplinary study examines the exceptional Turkey red textile dyeing process and product. Prized for its brilliant colour and durability, yet notoriously difficult to produce, the textile was consumed locally and exported around the world. Considered one of the first instances of industrial espionage, the expansion of the Turkey red industry is closely linked to the Industrial Revolution and the emergence of a new global economy. Significant technological advances in chemistry and dyeing were motivated by the demands of Turkey red dyers and printers, who were located primarily in the west of Scotland, the north of England, and around Mulhouse, Switzerland.This book explores the arc of the Turkey red industry, the evolution of the process through key producers and technical developments, the complicated printing process, and finishes with an examination of significant Turkey red collections and a selection of object case studies. The chemistry of the process is described in an accessible, contextual manner, highlighting the significance of the distinctive technique that yielded the best red attainable on cotton.Drawing on both historical and contemporary study, Turkey Red presents significant new research on the material characterisation of this fascinating, eye-catching textile, and offers an in-depth historical example of the global effect of textile consumption.

This multi-disciplinary study examines the exceptional Turkey red textile dyeing process and product. Prized for its brilliant colour and durability, yet notoriously difficult to produce, the textile was consumed locally and exported around the world. Considered one of the first instances of industrial espionage, the expansion of the Turkey red industry is closely linked to the Industrial Revolution and the emergence of a new global economy. Significant technological advances in chemistry and dyeing were motivated by the demands of Turkey red dyers and printers, who were located primarily in the west of Scotland, the north of England, and around Mulhouse, Switzerland.This book explores the arc of the Turkey red industry, the evolution of the process through key producers and technical developments, the complicated printing process, and finishes with an examination of significant Turkey red collections and a selection of object case studies. The chemistry of the process is described in an accessible, contextual manner, highlighting the significance of the distinctive technique that yielded the best red attainable on cotton.Drawing on both historical and contemporary study, Turkey Red presents significant new research on the material characterisation of this fascinating, eye-catching textile, and offers an in-depth historical example of the global effect of textile consumption.

This multi-disciplinary study examines the exceptional Turkey red textile dyeing process and product. Prized for its brilliant colour and durability, yet notoriously difficult to produce, the textile was consumed locally and exported around the world. Considered one of the first instances of industrial espionage, the expansion of the Turkey red industry is closely linked to the Industrial Revolution and the emergence of a new global economy. Significant technological advances in chemistry and dyeing were motivated by the demands of Turkey red dyers and printers, who were located primarily in the west of Scotland, the north of England, and around Mulhouse, Switzerland.This book explores the arc of the Turkey red industry, the evolution of the process through key producers and technical developments, the complicated printing process, and finishes with an examination of significant Turkey red collections and a selection of object case studies. The chemistry of the process is described in an accessible, contextual manner, highlighting the significance of the distinctive technique that yielded the best red attainable on cotton.Drawing on both historical and contemporary study, Turkey Red presents significant new research on the material characterisation of this fascinating, eye-catching textile, and offers an in-depth historical example of the global effect of textile consumption.

The development of digital textile printing at the end of the twentieth century has had a profound effect on the design, creation, use and understanding of textiles. This new technology - combined with advances in fabric and dye chemistry - has made it possible to produce complex images on fabric comprising millions of colours, quickly, inexpensively and in flexible quantities; a revolution that has led to a rapid increase in demand, which is predicted to rise still further.This book is the first to describe the historical and cultural context from which digital textile printing emerged, and to engage critically with the many issues that it raises: the changing role of the designer in the creation of printed textiles; the ways in which the design process is being transformed by new technology; the relationships between producers, clients and the textile industry; and the impact of digital printing on the wider creative industries. At the core of this study are two key questions: what constitutes authenticity in an age when printed textiles are created through the combined agency of the artist/designer and the computer? And how can this new technology be put to work in a sustainable way during a period of spiralling demand?

The development of digital textile printing at the end of the twentieth century has had a profound effect on the design, creation, use and understanding of textiles. This new technology - combined with advances in fabric and dye chemistry - has made it possible to produce complex images on fabric comprising millions of colours, quickly, inexpensively and in flexible quantities; a revolution that has led to a rapid increase in demand, which is predicted to rise still further.This book is the first to describe the historical and cultural context from which digital textile printing emerged, and to engage critically with the many issues that it raises: the changing role of the designer in the creation of printed textiles; the ways in which the design process is being transformed by new technology; the relationships between producers, clients and the textile industry; and the impact of digital printing on the wider creative industries. At the core of this study are two key questions: what constitutes authenticity in an age when printed textiles are created through the combined agency of the artist/designer and the computer? And how can this new technology be put to work in a sustainable way during a period of spiralling demand?

The development of digital textile printing at the end of the twentieth century has had a profound effect on the design, creation, use and understanding of textiles. This new technology - combined with advances in fabric and dye chemistry - has made it possible to produce complex images on fabric comprising millions of colours, quickly, inexpensively and in flexible quantities; a revolution that has led to a rapid increase in demand, which is predicted to rise still further.This book is the first to describe the historical and cultural context from which digital textile printing emerged, and to engage critically with the many issues that it raises: the changing role of the designer in the creation of printed textiles; the ways in which the design process is being transformed by new technology; the relationships between producers, clients and the textile industry; and the impact of digital printing on the wider creative industries. At the core of this study are two key questions: what constitutes authenticity in an age when printed textiles are created through the combined agency of the artist/designer and the computer? And how can this new technology be put to work in a sustainable way during a period of spiralling demand?

The development of digital textile printing at the end of the twentieth century has had a profound effect on the design, creation, use and understanding of textiles. This new technology - combined with advances in fabric and dye chemistry - has made it possible to produce complex images on fabric comprising millions of colours, quickly, inexpensively and in flexible quantities; a revolution that has led to a rapid increase in demand, which is predicted to rise still further.This book is the first to describe the historical and cultural context from which digital textile printing emerged, and to engage critically with the many issues that it raises: the changing role of the designer in the creation of printed textiles; the ways in which the design process is being transformed by new technology; the relationships between producers, clients and the textile industry; and the impact of digital printing on the wider creative industries. At the core of this study are two key questions: what constitutes authenticity in an age when printed textiles are created through the combined agency of the artist/designer and the computer? And how can this new technology be put to work in a sustainable way during a period of spiralling demand?

The story of tweed is tied to a series of social, economic and cultural shifts that have molded its development. This book considers the historical factors that helped to shape the design characteristics and social meanings of the group of fabrics that we call tweed, from their emergence in the 1820s to the present day. Including significant new research on tweeds, from Harris Tweed to the type used by Chanel, this book follows the history of these fabrics from the raw fiber to the finished garment in men''s and women''s fashion.Exploring rural and urban contexts, this book reveals the important physical and conceptual relationships of tweed with landscape. Anderson shows that, contrary to their strong popular associations with tradition, tweeds emerged in the Romantic era as a response to the dramatic changes associated with industrialization and urbanization. Progressive changes in gender relations are also explored as a major factor in tweed''s evolution, from associations with particular ideals of masculinity into what is now a truly adaptable fashion textile worn by both sexes. This is the first book of its kind to recognize the importance of tweed to fashion innovation today.

The story of tweed is tied to a series of social, economic and cultural shifts that have molded its development. This book considers the historical factors that helped to shape the design characteristics and social meanings of the group of fabrics that we call tweed, from their emergence in the 1820s to the present day. Including significant new research on tweeds, from Harris Tweed to the type used by Chanel, this book follows the history of these fabrics from the raw fiber to the finished garment in men''s and women''s fashion.Exploring rural and urban contexts, this book reveals the important physical and conceptual relationships of tweed with landscape. Anderson shows that, contrary to their strong popular associations with tradition, tweeds emerged in the Romantic era as a response to the dramatic changes associated with industrialization and urbanization. Progressive changes in gender relations are also explored as a major factor in tweed''s evolution, from associations with particular ideals of masculinity into what is now a truly adaptable fashion textile worn by both sexes. This is the first book of its kind to recognize the importance of tweed to fashion innovation today.

This book explores the fascinating history and present-day practices associated with cotton. This is a story of commercial and cultural enterprise, of the ties and tensions between East and West, of technological and industrial revolution, social modernization, colonialism and slavery. Cotton's history mirrors profound global transformations. And cotton remains one of the most significant mass commodities today.Cotton's track record on labor conditions in factories and plantations has tarnished its history and reputation, even as cotton clothes became the hallmark of modern industrialized society. Cotton expressed popular fashions and popular politics in dynamic ways. Yet cottons also take other cultural forms and are part of vibrant craft traditions in many parts of the world. This book explores the history, impact and ongoing life of this hugely influential textile.

From nomads' tents to poodle skirts, from car parts to Christmas tree ornaments, felt is one of the world's oldest and most understated textiles. Felt has developed simultaneously in multiple cultures, and often its origins are lost. However, far from having been supplanted by new fabrics, not only has felt retained its traditional uses among peoples around the world, but it has also seen a revival of popularity among today's hand feltmakers, craftspeople and fashion designers. This book follows the journey of felt through time, space, and purpose by pulling into focus a series of snapshots of different felting traditions. Beautifully illustrated, Felt covers the wide-ranging history and development of this most unassuming but ubiquitous of fabrics from the earliest archaeological evidence in the mountains of Siberia to the groundbreaking works of contemporary fiber arts and sculptors.

From nomads' tents to poodle skirts, from car parts to Christmas tree ornaments, felt is one of the world's oldest and most understated textiles. Felt has developed simultaneously in multiple cultures, and often its origins are lost. However, far from having been supplanted by new fabrics, not only has felt retained its traditional uses among peoples around the world, but it has also seen a revival of popularity among today's hand feltmakers, craftspeople and fashion designers. This book follows the journey of felt through time, space, and purpose by pulling into focus a series of snapshots of different felting traditions. Beautifully illustrated, Felt covers the wide-ranging history and development of this most unassuming but ubiquitous of fabrics from the earliest archaeological evidence in the mountains of Siberia to the groundbreaking works of contemporary fiber arts and sculptors.