Fashion

Peter McNeil is Professor of Design History at the University of Technology, Sydney, Australia, and Professor of Fashion Studies at Stockholm University. He is a co-editor with G. Riello of Shoes: A History from Sandals to Sneakers (Berg, 2006).

This excellent, accessible introduction to many of the most important trends in modern fashion studies will serve as an invaluable research tool for students just starting in the field. R.A. Standish, CHOICE Magazine

• VOLUME 1: LATE MEDIEVAL TO RENAISSANCE SERIES PREFACE INTRODUCTION PART I: GRACEFUL OR MAGNIFICENT: FASHION AND AESTHETICS 1. Costume and Fashion Fernand Braudel 2. Fashion in French Crusade Literature: Desiring Infidel Textiles Sarah-Grace Heller 3. Art and Life: The Aesthetic Sentiment Johan Huizinga 4. The Medieval Aesthetic Sensibility Umberto Eco 5. Society and Festivals Jacob Burckhardt 6. Order and Fashion in Clothes: The King, His Household and the City of London at the End of the Fifteenth Century Anne F. Sutton 7. Summer: The Last Century, 1550-1644 Timothy Brook PART 2: FASHION, APPEARANCE AND CULTURAL ORDER 8. Between Clothing and Nudity Mario Perniola 9. Women and Sumptuary Law Catherine Kovesi Killerby 10. The Upward Training of the Body from the Age of Chivalry to Courtly Civility Georges Vigarello 11. The Renaissance Beard: Masculinity in Early Modern England Will Fisher 12. Appearances Georges Vigarello PART 3: FASHION'S FORMS - CUSTOMS AND FOREIGNERS 13. The Devil and His Striped Clothes, 13th-16th Centuries Michel Pastoureau 14. Venice and the Dress of Foreigners Stella Mary Newton 15. Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies Bronwen Wilson 16. Sewing Connections: Elizabeth Tudor, Mary Stuart, Elizabeth Talbot, and Seventeenth-century Anonymous Needleworkers Susan Frye 17. Feathers and Flies: Aphra Behn and the Seventeenth-century Trade in Exotica Margaret W. Ferguson PART 4: TRADING IN LOOKS 18. Clothing Provision and the Great Wardrobe in the Mid-thirteenth Century Kay Staniland 19. The Currency of Clothing Ann Rosalind Jones and Peter Stallybrass 20. Gendered Space in Renaissance Florence: Theorizing Public and Private in the 'Rag Trade' Carole Collier Frick 21. The Economics of Clothing in the Late Seventeenth Century N.B. Harte 22. The Cost of Apparel in Seventeenth-century England, and the Accuracy of Gregory King Margaret Spufford PART 5: FASHION AND REINFORCEMENT 23. Looks and Appearance Baldesar Castiglione 24. Gesture, Ritual and Social Order in Sixteenth to Eighteenth-century Poland Maria Bogucka 25. Prescribing Literature: Dress, Politics and Gender in Sixteenth-century Italian Conduct Literature Elizabeth Currie 26. Masculine Apparel Stephen Orgel 27. To Fashion a Self: Dressing in Seventeenth-century England Sue Vincent 28. 'Twisted' Poses. The Kabuku Aesthetic in Early Edo Genre Painting John T. Carpenter VOLUME 2: THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY SERIES PREFACE INTRODUCTION PART 1: THE POWER OF DRESS 1. The Cavaliers and the Parvenus as Imitators of the Court Werner Sombart 2. Lord Chesterfield's Letters to his Son, 1750-1751 The Earl of Chesterfield 3. Regrets on Parting with my Old Dressing Gown, or A Warning to Those Who Have More Taste than Fortune Denis Diderot 4. Eros and Liberty at the English Masquerade, 1710-1790 Terry Castle 5. Freedom of Dress in Revolutionary France Lynn Hunt PART 2: FASHION - ART - ARTIFICE 6. The Purged Century Piero Camporesi 7. Popular Dress Daniel Roche 8. Image-Object-Space Katie Scott 9. The Artistic Expression of Iki [Chic] Kuki Shuzo 10. Street Style: Dress in John Gay's 'Trivia' Aileen Ribeiro 11. Nature and Artifice Georges Vigarello 12. Fleshing Out the Revolution Ewa Lajer-Burcharth PART 3: FASHION AND THE APPEARANCE INDUSTRIES 13. Consumer Behaviour, Textiles and Dress in the Late Seventeenth and Early Eighteenth Centuries Lorna Weatherill 14. European Consumption and Asian Production in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries John E. Wills, Jr. 15. Taxes upon consumable commodities, 1776 Adam Smith 16. The Queen and Her 'Minister of Fashion': Gender, Credit and Politics in Pre-Revolutionary France Clare Haru Crowston 17. The Production and Marketing of Populuxe Goods in Eighteenth-century Paris Cissie Fairchilds 18. Developing Consumerism and the Ready-made Clothing Trade in Britain, 1750-1800 Beverly Lemire 19. Involuntary Consumers? Servants and Their Clothes in Eighteenth-century England John Styles VOLUME 3: THE NINETEENTH CENTURY SERIES PREFACE INTRODUCTION PART 1: FASHION AND URBAN LIFE 1. Adolf Loos and the English Dandy Jules Lubbock 2. The Treatises of Dandyism Rhonda K. Garelick 3. The Invisible Flaneur Elizabeth Wilson 4. The Actress: Covent Garden and The Strand, 1880-1914 Christopher Breward 5. The Suffrage Response Joel H. Kaplan and Sheila Stowell 6. 'Tigersprung': Fashioning History Ulrich Lehmann PART 2: FROM THE LOVE OF FINERY TO HONEST CLOTH 7. The Love of Finery: Fashion and the Fallen Woman in Nineteenth-century Social Discourse Mariana Valverde 8. The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman Helene E. Roberts 9. Dress Reform as Antifeminism David Kunzle 10. Reply to David Kunzle, 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism' Helene E. Roberts 11. Fashion - Jewellery Marguerite de Ponty (Mallarme) 12. Fashion Marguerite de Ponty (Mallarme) 13. Consuming Kashmir: Shawls and Empires, 1500-2000 Michelle Maskiell 14. The Management of Colour: The Kashmir Shawl in a Nineteenth-century Debate David Brett 15. Sartorial Ideologies: From Homespun to Ready-made Michael Zakim 16. Cheap Mass-produced Men's Clothing in the Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Centuries Sarah Levitt PART 3: NINETEENTH-CENTURY FASHION AS FEMALE CULTURE 17. Invisible Clothing Philippe Perrot 18. Wool Cloth and Gender: The Use of Woollen Cloth in Women's Dress in Britain, 1865-85 Lou Taylor 19. Materializing Mourning: Hair, Jewellery and the Body Marcia Pointon 20. Femininity and Consumption: The Problem of the Late Nineteenth-century Fashion Journal Christopher Breward 21. "A Dream of Fair Women": Revival Dress and the Formation of Late Victorian Images of Femininity Margaret Maynard 22. Femme Fatale: Fashion and Visual Culture in Fin-de-siecle Paris Valerie Steele 23. Sex and the City: Metropolitan Modernities in English History Margot C. Finn VOLUME 4: THE TWENTIETH CENTURY TO TODAY SERIES PREFACE INTRODUCTION PART 1: FASHION'S STRUCTURES 1. Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture Thorstein Veblen 2. The Philosophy of Fashion; and Adornment Georg Simmel 3. The Economic and Social Role of Fashion Pierre Clerget 4. The Cerementing of the Gentleman Gerald Heard 5. The Predominance of Male Homosociality J.C. Flugel 6. Epilogue on Trousers Eric Gill 7. The Functions of Folk Costume in Moravian Slovakia Petr Bogatyrev 8. An Economic Interpretation of Women's Fashions Paul M. Gregory PART 2: FASHION AND FANTASY 9. Themes in Cosmetics and Grooming Murray Wax 10. The Economics of Fashion Demand Dwight E. Robinson 11. From Gemstones to Jewellery Roland Barthes PART 3: FASHION AND IDENTITY 12. Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection Herbert Blumer 13. Why the Midi Failed Fred D. Reynolds and William R. Darden 14. The Production of Belief: Contribution to an Economy of Symbolic Goods Pierre Bourdieu 15. Fashion Shapes: Film, the Fashion Industry and the Image of Women Maureen Turim 16. Other People's Clothes? The International Second-hand Clothing Trade and Dress Practices in Zambia Karen Tranberg Hansen PART 4: FASHION AND AESTHETICS 17. To Cut is to Think Germano Celant 18. Illuminations - Warhol in the 1950s Richard Martin 19. The Golden Dustman: A Critical Evaluation of the Work of Martin Margiela Caroline Evans 20. Art, Fashion and Music in the Culture Society Angela McRobbie 21. Vionnet & Classicism Rebecca Arnold 22. Paul Poiret's Minaret Style: Originality, Reproduction and Art in Fashion Nancy Troy 23. Hollywood Glamour and Mass Consumption in Postwar Italy Stephen Gundle 24. Magic Fashion Elizabeth Wilson