Coloration of Wool and Other Keratin Fibres

EditorsDavid M. Lewis Department of Colour Science, University of Leeds, UK.John A. Rippon CSIRO Materials Science and Engineering, Australia.

“If you know 'Wool Dyeing' and have appreciated it, this is a valuable and thorough replacement.  If you do not, this book will tell you everything you need to know and more about The Coloration of Wool and other Keratin Fibers.”  (AATCC Review, 2014)“This groundbreaking and innovative book is highly recommended for all who have interests in the collaboration of wool and human hair.”  (International Dyer, 1 March 2014)

• List of Contributors xiiiSociety of Dyers and Colourists xvPreface xvii1 The Structure of Wool 1John A. Rippon1.1 Introduction 11.2 Composition of Wool 21.3 Chemical Structure of Wool 51.3.1 General Chemical Structure of Proteins 51.3.2 Amino Acid Composition of Wool 61.3.3 Arrangement of Amino Acids in Wool 81.3.4 The Structure of Wool Proteins 111.3.5 Wool Lipids 131.4 Morphological Structure of Wool 141.4.1 The Cuticle and the Fibre Surface 161.4.2 The Cortex 231.4.3 The Cell Membrane Complex 271.5 Chemical Reactivity of Wool 321.6 Damage in Wool Dyeing 321.6.1 Nonkeratinous Proteins and Damage in Dyeing 331.6.2 Influence of Dyebath pH on Fibre Damage 341.7 Conclusion 35References 352 The Chemical and Physical Basis for Wool Dyeing 43John A. Rippon2.1 Introduction 432.2 The Chemical Basis for Wool Dyeing 432.2.1 The Wool–Water System 442.2.2 The Amphoteric Nature of Wool and Dyeing Behaviour 442.2.3 Classical Theories of Wool Dyeing 462.2.4 Modern Theories of Wool Dyeing 492.3 Standard Affinity and Heat of Dyeing 502.4 Classification of Dyes Used for Wool 522.5 Dye Aggregation 552.6 The Physical Basis for Wool Dyeing: The Role of Fibre Structure 602.6.1 Diffusion of Dyes 602.6.2 Pathways of Dye Diffusion into Wool 612.7 Effect of Chemical Modifications on Dyeing 662.7.1 Chlorination 662.7.2 Plasma Treatment 672.7.3 Differential Dyeing 682.8 Conclusion 68References 693 The Role of Auxiliaries in the Dyeing of Wool and other Keratin Fibres 75Arthur C. Welham3.1 Introduction 753.2 Surface Activity of Wool-Dyeing Auxiliaries 763.2.1 Anionic Auxiliaries 763.2.2 Cationic Auxiliaries 773.2.3 Ethoxylated Nonionic and Cationic Auxiliaries 783.2.4 Amphoteric Auxiliaries 803.2.5 Other Auxiliaries 813.3 Brightening Agents 813.4 Levelling Agents 823.4.1 Material Faults 833.4.2 Dyeing and Processing Faults 833.4.3 Testing the Action of Levelling Agents 853.4.4 Product Selection 863.4.5 Coverage of Skittery or Tippy-Dyeing Wool 863.5 Restraining and Reserving Agents in Wool Blend Dyeing 883.6 Antiprecipitants 893.7 Wool Protective Agents 893.8 Low-Temperature Dyeing 903.9 Correction of Faulty Dyeings 923.10 Aftertreatments to Improve Wet Fastness 933.11 Effluent Control in Chrome Dyeing 943.12 Antifrosting Agents 953.13 Antisetting Agents 953.14 Sequestering Agents 963.15 Conclusions 96References 974 Ancillary Processes in Wool Dyeing 99David M. Lewis4.1 Introduction 994.2 Wool Scouring 994.3 Wool Carbonising 1004.4 Shrink-Resist Treatments 1024.4.1 Top Shrink-Resist Processes 1024.4.2 Garment Shrink-Resist Treatments 1054.4.3 Fabric Shrink-Resist Treatments 1064.4.4 Miscellaneous Developments 1074.4.5 Colour-Fastness Requirements for Machine-Washable Wool 1084.5 Insect-Resist Treatments 1084.5.1 Insect Pests 1084.5.2 Insect-Resist Agents 1094.5.3 Application Methods for IR Agents 1134.6 Flame-Retardant Treatments 1154.7 Antisetting Agents 1164.7.1 The Role of Oxidants in Preventing Setting in Dyeing 1184.7.2 The Role of Electrophilic Reagents in Controlling Setting in Dyeing 1194.8 Fibre Arylating Agents (FAA) 120References 1265 Bleaching and Whitening of Wool: Photostability of Whites 131Keith R. Millington5.1 Introduction 1315.2 Wool Colour 1325.2.1 Measuring Wool Colour 1325.2.2 Improving Wool Colour by Selection 1345.2.3 Improving Colour in the Scour 1345.2.4 Nonscourable Yellowing 1355.2.5 Wool Colour Compared with Cotton and Synthetics 1355.3 Wool Bleaching 1385.3.1 Oxidative Bleaching 1385.3.2 Reductive Bleaching 1395.3.3 Double (or Full) Bleaching 1405.3.4 Bleaching of Pigmented Wools 1405.3.5 Bleaching in the Dyebath 1405.3.6 Biobleaching of Wool Using Enzymes 1425.3.7 Activated Peroxide Bleaching 1435.3.8 Catalytic Peroxide Bleaching 1445.3.9 Novel Bleaching Methods for Wool 1445.4 Fluorescent Whitening of Wool 1445.5 Photostability of Wool 1455.5.1 Mechanism of Wool Photoyellowing 1485.5.2 Mechanism of Photoyellowing of Fluorescent Whitened Wool 1495.5.3 Methods for Improving Photostability 151References 1536 Wool-dyeing Machinery 157Jamie A. Hawkes and Paul Hamilton6.1 Introduction 1576.2 Top Dyeing 1586.2.1 Longclose (UK) Large Bump Tops 1606.2.2 Obem Big Form 1616.2.3 Vigoreux Printing 1616.3 Loose Stock Dyeing 1626.3.1 Continuous Dyeing of Loose Stock 1656.4 Hank-Dyeing Yarn 1666.4.1 Carpet Yarn 1666.4.2 Hand-Knitting and Machine-Knitting Yarn 1676.4.3 Robotic Handling 1696.4.4 Space Dyeing of Yarn 1696.5 Yarn Package Dyeing 1716.5.1 Package Preparation 1726.5.2 Machinery 1756.6 Piece Dyeing 1786.6.1 Jet and Overflow Dyeing 1786.6.2 Beam Dyeing 1796.7 Garment Dyeing 1796.8 Carpet Piece Dyeing 1826.9 Drying 1836.9.1 Mechanical Moisture Removal 1836.9.2 Thermal Moisture Removal 1846.10 Dyehouse Automation 1866.10.1 Dyehouse Control Systems 1866.10.2 Factory Management Systems 1886.10.3 Process Control 1886.10.4 Effluent Control Systems 1906.10.5 Colour Measurement 1916.11 Laboratory Dyeing 1926.11.1 Tops, Loose Stock, Hanks and Package Yarn 1936.11.2 Piece Dyeing 1986.11.3 Garment Dyeing 2016.11.4 Laboratory Machine Control Systems 202References 2037 Dyeing Wool with Acid and Mordant Dyes 205Peter A. Duffield7.1 Introduction 2057.2 Acid Dyes 2087.2.1 Acid Dye Subclassification 2087.2.2 Optimised Dye Ranges 2137.3 Natural Dyes 2137.4 Mordant Dyes 2147.4.1 Chrome Dyeing Processes 2167.4.2 Theoretical Aspects 2197.4.3 Low-Chrome Dyeing 2237.5 Specific Dyeing Methods 226References 2278 Dyeing Wool with Metal-complex Dyes 229Stephen M. Burkinshaw8.1 Introduction 2298.2 Dye Structure 2308.2.1 Electronic Structure 2328.2.2 Colour and Light Fastness 2358.2.3 Stereochemistry and Isomerism 2368.2.4 1 : 1 Metal-Complex Dyes 2378.2.5 1 : 2 Metal-Complex Dyes 2398.3 Dye Application 2428.3.1 1 : 1 Metal-Complex Dyes 2428.3.2 1 : 2 Metal-Complex Dyes 2468.4 Environmental Aspects 248References 2489 Dyeing Wool with Reactive Dyes 251David M. Lewis9.1 Introduction 2519.2 Commercial Reactive Dyes for Wool 2529.3 The Chemistry of Reactive Dyes 2539.3.1 Nucleophilic Substitution Reactions 2539.3.2 Michael Addition Reaction 2539.3.3 Specific Reactive Dyes for Wool 2549.4 Application Procedures 2609.4.1 Auxiliary Agents 2609.4.2 Dyeing Processes Used with Reactive Dyes 2619.4.3 Effect of Reactive Dyes on Fibre Properties 2769.5 Novel Reactive Dye Systems for Wool 2819.5.1 Maleinimides 2819.5.2 Isocyanate and Isothiocyanate Bisulphite Adducts 2819.5.3 Carboxymethyl Carbodithioate Dyes 2829.5.4 Trifunctional Reactive Dyes Prepared from Bis-(chloroethyl-sulphonylethyl)amine [P-3] Reaction with a DCT Dye 2829.5.5 Crosslinking Agents to Covalently Fix Acid Dyes to Wool 2839.6 Identification of the Reaction Sites in the Fibre 2859.7 Conclusions 287References 28710 Dyeing Wool Blends 291David M. Lewis10.1 Introduction 29110.2 Wool/Cotton 29310.2.1 Dyeing of Cotton 29310.2.2 Exhaustion Dyeing of Wool/Cotton Blends 29610.2.3 Pad Dyeing of Wool/Cotton Blends 30010.2.4 Wool Damage during Dyeing 30110.3 Amination of Cellulosic Fibres 30310.4 Wool/Silk 30510.4.1 Dyeing of Silk 30610.4.2 Dyeing of Wool/Silk Blends 30810.5 Wool/Nylon 31010.5.1 Dyeing of Nylon 31010.5.2 Dyeing of Wool/Nylon Blends 31910.6 Wool/Polyester 32310.6.1 Dyeing of Polyester 32310.6.2 Dyeing of Wool/Polyester Blends 33310.7 Wool/Acrylic 34110.7.1 Dyeing of Acrylic Fibres 34210.7.2 Dyeing of Wool/Acrylic Blends 34810.8 Conclusions 351References 35211 The Coloration of Human Hair 357Robert M. Christie and Olivier J.X. Morel11.1 Introduction 35711.2 Structure and Morphology of Human Hair 35911.3 Natural Colour of Hair 36011.4 Physical Chemistry of Hair Dyeing 36411.5 Toxicology of Hair Dyes 36511.6 Oxidative Hair Coloration 36611.7 Alternative Approaches to Permanent Hair Dyeing 36911.8 Nonoxidative Hair Dyeing 37511.9 Conclusion 386References 38712 Wool Printing 393Peter J. Broadbent and Muriel L.A. Rigout12.1 Introduction 39312.2 Preparation for Printing 39412.2.1 Oxidative Processes 39412.2.2 Polymer Treatments 39612.2.3 Plasma Treatments 39712.2.4 Other Methods of Preparation for Printing 39812.3 Direct Printing 39912.3.1 Machinery 39912.3.2 Dye Selection and Print Recipes 39912.3.3 Steaming 40212.3.4 Washing and Aftertreatment 40412.4 Discharge Printing 40512.4.1 Ground Shades 40512.4.2 Discharge Agents 40512.4.3 Illuminating Dyes 40712.4.4 Printing and Fixation 40712.5 Resist Printing 40812.5.1 Chemical Resist Processes 40912.5.2 Mechanical/Chemical Resist Processes 41112.5.3 Reactive-Under-Reactive Resist 41212.6 Digital Printing 41212.6.1 Machinery 41312.6.2 Ink Formulation 41312.6.3 Fabric Pretreatment 41512.6.4 Fixation 41712.6.5 Wash-Off 41712.7 Wool Blends 41812.7.1 Wool/Polyester 41912.7.2 Wool/Cotton 41912.7.3 Wool/Acrylic 42012.8 Cold Print Batch 42012.9 Transfer Printing 42112.9.1 Wet or ‘Migration’ Transfer Printing 42112.9.2 Sublimation Transfer Printing 42212.9.3 Benzoylated Wool 42412.10 Novel Effects 42512.10.1 Burn-Out (devorée) Printing 42512.10.2 Sculptured Effects 425References 426Index 431