Fashion Reader

Linda Welters is Professor of Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design at the University of Rhode Island, USA. She is the editor of the Bloomsbury series “Textiles That Changed the World.”Abby Lillethun is Professor and Chair of the Department of Art and Design at Montclair State University, USA. She co-authored Fashion History: A Global View (2018) with Linda Welters.

An engaging text that unpacks the interdisciplinary nature of the global fashion system with considerations of time, place, and context. Readers will gain new and critical insights into the ways various fields such as economics, psychology, geography, politics, art, culture, and business influence fashioned identities and communities.

• Introduction — Linda Welters and Abby LillethunPart I: A Brief History of FashionIntroduction — Linda Welters 1. From Prehistory through Byzantium — Abby Lillethun2. Europe to 1700 — Linda Welters3. From Baroque Elegance to the French Revolution: 1700–1790 — Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell4. From Neoclassicism to the Industrial Revolution: 1790–1860 — Susan North5. The Victorian and Edwardian Eras: 1860–1910 — Cynthia Cooper 6. The Modern Era: 1910–1960 — Tiffany Webber7. The Postmodern Age: 1960–2020 — José Blanco F.8. Fashion Outside the West — Linda Welters and Abby LillethunAnnotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IPart II: Fashion TheoryIntroduction — Abby Lillethun 9. Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture — Thorstein Veblen10. The Habitus and the Space of Life-Styles — Pierre Bourdieu11. The Fashion System — Grant McCracken12. The Dressed Body — Joanne Entwistle13. Re-Orienting Fashion Theory — Sandra NiessenAnnotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IIPart III: Psychology of FashionIntroduction — Abby Lillethun 14. The Fundamental Motives — J. C. Flugel15. Blue or Pink? That is the Question: Homophobia and Its Influence on the Gendering of Colour Symbolism — Eun Jung Kang16. Shopping for Fashion — Carolyn Mair17. Lacan and Fashion — Alison Bancroft18. Spirited Individuality: Halloween — Pravina ShuklaAnnotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IIIPart IV: Fashion and IdentityIntroduction — Abby Lillethun 19. Dress and Identity — Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins and Joanne Eicher 20. All Out in the Wash: Convict Stain Removal in the Narryana Heritage Museum’s Dress Collection — Jennifer Clynk and Sharon Peoples21. Subculture: The Unnatural Break — Dick Hebdige22. 1980s and Beyond: Queering Fashion — Susan B. Kaiser23. Islamic Fashion and the Global Islamic Revival Movement — Annalies Moors and Emma Tarlo24. The Commodification of Ethnicity: Vlisco Fabrics and Wax Cloth Fashion in Ghana — Christine Delhaye and Rhoda WoetsAnnotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IVPart V: Fashion: Space and PlaceIntroduction — Linda Welters 25. Fashion in Peripheral Places: The New Zealand Story — Sally Weller 26. Travelling the Street Style Blogosphere: Amateur Photography — Brent Luvaas27. Flagship Stores: Scaling Fashion’s Luxury Spaces — Louise Crewe28. Globalization Reconsidered: The Historical Geography of Modern Western Male Attire — Wilbur Zelinsky29. Nailed It: Producing and Consuming in Tokyo’s Nail Industry — Rebecca ScofieldAnnotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VPart VI: Politics of Fashion Introduction — Abby Lillethun30. Fashioning the Colonial Subject — Barbara L. Voss31. Khartoum at Night — Marie Grace Brown32. The Soul Wide World: The “Afro Look” in South Africa from the 1970s to the New Millennium — Tanisha C. Ford33. How White Became the Color of Suffrage — Einav Rabinovitch-Fox34. Worker Rights, Factory Inspection, and Fashion — Richard McIntyre35. Trade Policies and the Textiles and Apparel Industries — Arthur C. MeadAnnotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VIPart VII: Fashion and the BodyIntroduction — Abby Lillethun 36. The Cultural Heritage of Tattooing: A Brief History — Lars Krutak37. Consumptive Corsetry and Romantic Fashion — Carolyn A. Day38. Outcomes of Plastic Surgery — Charlotte N. Markey and Patrick M. Markey39. Hair and Human Identity — Sarah Cheang and Geraldine Biddle-Perry40. Disciplining Corpulence: The Case of Plus-Size Fashion Models — Amanda M. Czerniawaski Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VIIPart VIII: Fashion and ArtIntroduction — Linda Welters41. Fashion — Valerie Steele42. Putting Artwear in Context — Melissa Leventon43. Curating Chanel — Nick Rees-Roberts44. One Work: Elsa Schiaparelli & Salvador Dalí: The Tears Dress (1938) — Ella Plevin45. Dynamic Static — Nicole ArcherAnnotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VIIIPart IX: Fashion, Media and CommunicationIntroduction — Linda Welters 46. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis — Kathleen Craughwell-Varda 47. Film Stars as Fashion Icons — Pamela Church Gibson48. Style Narratives: Sixties in the Twenty-First Century — Heike Jenss49. The Celebrity as Designer of His/Her Own Fashion Brand — Marta Martina and Silvia Vacirca 50. A Global Discourse: The New Millennium — Kate Nelson Best Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IXPart X: From Haute Couture to the StreetIntroduction — Linda Welters51. The Dressmaking World — Thérèse Bonney and Louise Bonney52. A New House, a New Femininity — Alexandra Palmer53. Trickle Down, Bubble Up — Ted Polhemus54. Punks and Pirates: The Costiff Collection of Vivienne Westwood — Sonnet Stanfill55. Connoisseurs of Trash in a World Full of It — Jennifer Le ZotteAnnotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XPart XI: Design and ManufactureIntroduction — Linda Welters 56. The Future of Fashion Forecasting — Regina Lee Blasczyk and Ben Wubs 57. Hedi Slimane and the Reinvention of Menswear — Jay McCauley Bowstead58. At Work in the Vintage Archive — Jennifer Ayres59. Luxury Indian Fashion — Tereza Kuldova60. The Sweatshop, Child Labor, and Exploitation Issues in the Garment Industry — Liat SmestadAnnotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIPart XII: Marketing and MerchandisingIntroduction — Linda Welters 61. Spectacle — Ginger Gregg Duggan 62. Surprise Ambush: The Unexpected and Unscheduled — Nilgin Yusuf 63. The A&F Brand/Story — Anne-Peirson-Smith and Joseph H. Hancock II64. Disruptive Business Model Innovations in the Fashion Retail Industry — Byoungho Ellie Jin and Daeun Chloe Shin65. What Is the Future of the Fashion Show? — Steff YotkaAnnotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIIPart XIII: The Fashion Business and Global EconomicsIntroduction — Abby Lillethun66. Made in ____ — Arthur C. Mead67. Zara: The Business Model for Fast Fashion — Teresa M. McCarthy Byrne68. Contemporary South Asian Youth Cultures and the Fashion Landscape — Lipi Begum and Rohit K. Dasgupta69. Moroccan Fashion and Economics — M. Angela Jansen70. Used Clothing Markets in the Global South — Andrew BrooksAnnotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIIIPart XIV: Sustainability and FashionIntroduction — Linda Welters71. Textile Production — Leslie Davis Burns 72. The Filippa K Story — Kerli Kant Hvass73. Sustainability in Textiles and Fashion: How Far Have We Come Since 2000? — Martin BideAnnotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIVPart XV: Future of FashionIntroduction — Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun74. Amazon Has Developed an AI Fashion Designer — Will Knight75. Sewing Up a Storm: How Robots and Other New Technologies are Shaping a New Era of Manufacturing — Kilara Le 76. Forecasting Fashion’s Future — Abby Lillethun and Linda WeltersAnnotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XVBibliographyIndex