Fashioned Body

Joanne Entwistle is Reader in Cultural and Creative Industries at King’s College London.

‘It is marvellous to have the third edition of this important, indeed classic text. The updated and new material will be vital for students and faculty in fashion studies and more widely in the sociology of culture.’Angela McRobbie, Goldsmiths University of London‘The Fashioned Body is just what the world needs now. The first edition blew our proverbial hats off and now Entwistle’s incisive thinking, brilliant analysis and gorgeous prose cover various contemporary debates within fashion, including labour issues, the environment, and debates on the body regarding intersectionality, race and (trans)gender. For theorizing the clothed body, or any body, this is a must read!’Elizabeth Wissinger, City University of New York

• Acknowledgements Preface to the Third EditionIntroductionThe Fashioned Body 3.0Conclusion1 Addressing the BodyIntroduction: Dress and the BodyTheoretical ResourcesThe body as cultural objectThe influence of FoucaultThe body versus embodimentMerleau-Ponty and embodimentDress and embodimentDressed bodies in spaceSociological accounts of the body and embodimentAddressing the body in the twenty-first centuryConclusion2 Theorising Fashion and DressIntroductionDefining the TermsDefining dressDefining fashionEveryday dress and fashionApproaches to Fashion and DressSociology and fashionAddressing the literature on fashionTheoretical approaches I: ‘why’ questionsTheoretical explanations: why fashion?Theoretical approaches II: fashion and the condition of modern lifeConclusion3 Fashion, Dress and Social ChangeIntroduction: Theorising Fashion and Dress: Twenty-First-Century DebatesWestern Fashion HistoryFashion and Social ChangeThe Beginnings of European FashionClass, status and power in late medieval and early modern European cultureFashion in the Renaissance CourtFashion in the Seventeenth CenturyDress, class and social identity in the eighteenth centuryFashion from the Nineteenth Century OnwardsConclusion: Fashion, Social and Aesthetic Change4 Fashion and Identity: From Modernity to IntersectionalityIntroductionFashion and Identity in ModernityModernity: Imitation and DifferentiationFashion as artificeFashion and authenticityClothing, class and fashioning identityThe dandyThe Romantic bohemianFashion and identity in contemporary cultureClass, distinction and styleSubcultural style, subcultural capitalContemporary debates on fashion and identity: ‘race’, ethnicity and religious identitiesIntersectionalityConclusion5 Identity: Gender and FashionIntroductionSex, Gender and SexualityLooking Back: Dress and Gender in HistoryFemininity and fashionDress and gender differentiationExplaining the differences – a ‘natural’ differenceExplaining the differences – ‘social’ divisionsVictorian dress reformWorking–class dressDress and Gender in the Twentieth CenturyChallenges to gendered dressMenswear: male peacocks and the ‘new man’Challenges to the gender binary: androgyny and unisex clothingCross-dressing, unisex, and transgender challengesMasquerade, gender exaggeration and ambiguityTransgender politicsGender and fashion: fashion studies in the twenty-first centuryConclusion6 Identity: Fashion, Adornment and SexualityIntroductionSexuality, Bodies and DressAdornment and Sexual AttractionPower-dressing, Femininity and SexualityFetishism and AdornmentThe corset controversyTransvestismUnderwear and eroticismAdornment and Sexual IdentityGay and Lesbian Dress and SexualityConclusion7 The Fashion IndustryIntroductionHistorical Development of the Fashion IndustryAn Imperfect IndustryFashion and inequalitiesGender, Class and Ethnic Relations in the Fashion IndustryFashion Consumption and CultureChanging Patterns of Fashion RetailMarkets, shops and department storesFashion as Culture Industry: Fashion Industry from the Twentieth CenturyFrom elite style to popular fashionFashion: culture industry, circuits, and networksThe field of fashionMarkets as NetworksFashion in the Twenty-First CenturyFashion industry: twenty-first-century contemporary critiquesSustainabilityFashion ethicsEthics and diversity in fashionConclusionNotesConclusion: Fashioned Bodies in the Twenty-First CenturyReferencesIndex