Kanpai

Eric C. Rath is Professor of History at the University of Kansas. His books include Oishii: The History of Sushi (Reaktion Books, 2021).

The first history of the drink to make its way into English . . . this compact publication is nevertheless fascinating, tracing sake's evolution over two millennia and its place in Japanese history. - Sophie Thorpe, DecanterRath’s new book opens the door with history, told in an approachable way. Readers get drawn into the story and pretty soon the complications start to make sense. It doesn’t hurt that the heavy coated stocks makes the beautiful illustrations pop of the page . . . His book is clear and interesting and taught me a lot I didn’t know about Sake and about Japan. - The Wine EconomistJapan’s national beverage has achieved global renown, but its origins and practices are still shrouded in mystery. For those who want to learn more about sake, there can be no better guide than Eric C. Rath. This authoritative and entertaining book leads us from the drinking games of medieval samurai to the rope curtains of modern izakaya. - Jeffrey M. Pilcher, University of TorontoThere are many books on sake these days, but none like Kanpai, which takes us through the annals of the history of sake, from medieval temple sake recipes to socio-political factors that influenced sake legislation, and from the history of izakaya to the industry today outside of Japan: the breadth and scope of sake lore makes for a fascinating read. - John Gauntner, author of Sake Confidential and co-founder and managing editor of Sake TodayCovering a rich range of sake styles and makers, Kanpai is a surprisingly easy read. Rath’s history brings to light the key players in sake’s evolution: monks, imperial guilds, shrine maidens, and the many women who brewed sake in makeshift home distilleries despite being excluded from official guilds. His treatment of the political sake guilds – and the drama surrounding them – makes the history unexpectedly compelling, leaving readers clamouring. Throughout, he intersperses photos showcasing sake culture, alongside finely rendered details from Japanese scrolls and ancient izakaya, tracing the evolution of sake flasks and accessories. Rath is a storyteller. His measured tone and immersive style make the subject accessible yet deftly handled, balancing scholarship with a curious narrative. Kanpai! - Culinary Historians of Canada’s Digestible Bits and Bites