Food Beyond Terroir

Anna Colquhoun is a social anthropologist based at the SOAS Food Studies Centre. Her research interests include culinary tourism and the cultural economy, hospitality and cooking, and localized and post-socialist food systems.

“Food Beyond Terroir offers global perspectives on the cultural, social and political aspects of the connection between food and place. The case studies and theoretical chapters are sure to spur excellent discussions in the classroom.” • Rachel Black, Connecticut College“An outstanding collection, which provides a genuine rethinking of terroir. Each chapter piqued my interest and got me to think about familiar topics in new ways. Food Beyond Terroir is sure to be a touchstone for future scholarship on the “taste of place,” and required reading across the spectrum of food studies.” • David Sutton, Southern Illinois University“This is an exciting new collection of critical perspectives on taste of place by leading theorists working with diverse and rich empirical material.” • Krishnendu Ray, New York University“How do people come to believe that they can taste place, history, culture, and more in their food? Is “terroir” just marketing hype or is it the antithesis to bland globalization? Readable and sometimes provocative, these essays are essential for anyone who wants to understand the contested connections between food and place.” • David I. Berriss, University of New Orlean

• List of FiguresAcknowledgmentsIntroductionAnna Colquhoun, Katharina Graf & Harry G. WestPart I: LandsChapter 1. Terroir in Contested TerritoriesAnne MeneleyChapter 2.  Beating the Bounds of Terroir: A Perambulation of the Micro and Macro Cultures of Cidermaking in Devon, EnglandSimon Pope & Harry G. WestChapter 3. Fishnets: Land-Sea Relationalities and Contingencies in Coastal Latvian “Taste of Place”Guntra A. AistaraChapter 4. On Being Placeless? The Case of Vegan CheesesSarah CzernyChapter 5. What’s Mine Is Mine and What’s Yours Is Mine: The Terroirism of Nash in Russian Culinary ColonialismMelissa L. CaldwellPart II: LawsChapter 6. The Domaće Relations of Cured Pork: “Homemade” Resistance to Terroir Products in Croatian IstriaAnna ColquhounChapter 7. From Terroir to Viticultural Bricolages: Facing Environmental Challenges in BurgundyMarion DemossierChapter 8. Food Producers and Place Brands in Contemporary JapanGreg de St. MauriceChapter 9. Shifting Wind, Eternal Earth: Lapsang Souchong, a Foreign Fengtu Comes HomeKunbing XiaoPart III: BodiesChapter 10. Domestic Cooks’ Work toward Moroccan Beldi FoodsKatharina GrafChapter 11. Culinary Mestizaje: On the Making of an Authentic Cuban Taste of PlaceHanna GarthChapter 12. Food, Place, and Personhood in South India: The Limits of TerroirJames StaplesChapter 13. To Chop Means to Eat: The Cosmology of Taste in Ghanaian FoodwaysBrandi Simpson MillerPart IV: ImaginariesChapter 14. Terroir in Future Tense? Gender, Taste, and Emplacement in an Age of BordersCharlotte SandersChapter 15. British-born Chinese Restaurateurs and the Reinvention of Chinese CuisineJakob A. KleinChapter 16. “Good Wine” (Dobro Vino) and the Social Imaginary of Place: Wine Quality Debates in the Bulgarian Wine IndustryYuson JungChapter 17. Intimacy at Scale: Sovereignty as Political TemporalityCristina GrasseniAfterword: Thinking, and Becoming, Beyond TerroirHeather Paxson & Brad WeissIndex