Designhistoria

Scandinavian Design under segel handlar om hur segelbåtars design utvecklats genom 100 år i våra nordiska länder. Det gäller urval av båtar som matchar begreppet i att vara estetiskt tilltalande, ha bra funktion i hantering och prestanda med rena och tidlösa linjer. Bilderna i boken är noga utvalda för att illustrera de vackra båtarna i fina naturmiljöer. Urvalet spänner över små jollar mycket stora segelyachter. Den har kommit till genom samarbete med professionella seglare, fotografer och intervjuer. Författaren är industridesigner, väl förtrogen med designens betydelse och mycket erfaren seglare, båtbyggare och skärgårdsälskare. Bokens känsla speglas i sin klotbundna kvalitet med schweizisk bindning så sidornas uppslag faller ut fint på bordet.

How Japan adopted and ultimately revived traditional American fashion "A fascinating cultural history." -PeopleA strange thing has happened over the last two decades: the world has come to believe that the most "authentic" American garments are those made in Japan. From high-end denim to oxford button-downs, Japanese brands such as UNIQLO, Kamakura Shirts, Beams, and Kapital have built their global businesses by creating the highest-quality versions of classic American casual garments-a style known in Japan as ametora, or "American traditional."In Ametora, cultural historian W. David Marx traces the Japanese assimilation of American fashion over the past 150 years. Now updated with a new afterword covering the last decade, Ametora shows how Japanese trendsetters and entrepreneurs mimicked, adapted, imported, and ultimately perfected American style, dramatically reshaping not only Japan's culture but also our own.

Dressing the Man is the definitive guide to what men need to know in order to dress well and look stylish without becoming fashion victims. Alan Flusser's name is synonymous with taste and style. With his new book, he combines his encyclopedic knowledge of men's clothes with his signature wit and elegance to address the fundamental paradox of modern men's fashion: Why, after men today have spent more money on clothes than in any other period of history, are there fewer well-dressed men than at any time ever before? According to Flusser, dressing well is not all that difficult, the real challenge lies in being able to acquire the right personalized instruction. Dressing well pivots on two pillars -- proportion and color. Flusser believes that "Permanent Fashionability," both his promise and goal for the reader, starts by being accountable to a personal set of physical trademarks and not to any kind of random, seasonally served-up collection of fashion flashes. Unlike fashion, which is obliged to change each season, the face's shape, the neck's height, the shoulder's width, the arm's length, the torso's structure, and the foot's size remain fairly constant over time.Once a man learns how to adapt the fundamentals of permanent fashion to his physique and complexion, he's halfway home. Taking the reader through each major clothing classification step-by-step, this user-friendly guide helps you apply your own specifics to a series of dressing options, from business casual and formalwear to pattern-on-pattern coordination, or how to choose the most flattering clothing silhouette for your body type and shirt collar for your face. A man's physical traits represent his individual road map, and the quickest route toward forging an enduring style of dress is through exposure to the legendary practitioners of this rare masculine art. Flusser has assembled the largest andmost diverse collection of stylishly mantled men ever found in one book. Many never-before-seen vintage photographs from the era of Cary Grant, Tyrone Power, and Fred Astaire are employed to help illustrate the range and diversity of authentic men's fashion. Dressing the Man's sheer magnitude of options will enable the reader to expand both the grammar and verbiage of his permanent-fashion vocabulary.For those men hoping to find sartorial fulfillment somewhere down the road, tethering their journey to the mind-set of permanent fashion will deliver them earlier rather than later in life.

The complete, definitive and never-before-published catalogue of Hipgnosis, Vinyl • Album • Cover • Art finally does justice to the work of the most important design collective in music history, which, according to Roddy Bogawa, director of the documentary Taken by Storm (2011), ‘designed half your record collection’. Founded in 1967 by Storm Thorgerson, Aubrey ‘Po’ Powell and Peter Christopherson, Hipgnosis gained legendary status in graphic design, transforming the look of album art forever and winning five Grammy nominations for package design. Their revolutionary cover art moved away from the conventional group shots favoured by record companies of the day, resulting in the ground-breaking, often surreal designs which define the albums of many of the biggest names in the history of popular music: 10cc, AC/DC, Black Sabbath, Peter Gabriel, The Police, Genesis, Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd, Paul McCartney, Robert Plant, Syd Barrett, Throbbing Gristle, T. Rex, Wings, Yes and XTC, to name but a few. Arranged chronologically, Vinyl • Album • Cover • Art features stunning reproductions of every single Hipgnosis cover – 372 in total – coupled with detailed information by Po and Storm Thorgerson on the artworks and the compelling stories behind their creation. Additional contributions by Peter Gabriel, Marcus Bradbury, and Pentagram’s Harry Pearce provide engrossing insights into the way these incredible artworks came into being; place the covers in context; and reflect on their enduring impact on album design. A highly accessible stand-alone volume, Vinyl • Album • Cover • Art will also make the perfect pop partner to the groundbreaking Hipgnosis | Portraits (2014) with its rare revelations and behind-the-scenes photography.

Detailed plates from the Bible: the Creation scenes, Adam and Eve, horrifying visions of the Flood, the battle sequences with their monumental crowds, depictions of the life of Jesus and visions of the new Jerusalem. Each of the 241 plates is accompanied by the appropriate verses from the King James version of the Bible.

Scandinavian design is still seen as democratic, functional and simple, its products exemplifying the same characteristics now as they have done since the 1950s. But both the essence and the history of Scandinavian design are much more complex than this. Scandinavian Design: Alternative Histories presents a radically new assessment, a corrective to the persistent mythologies and reductive accounts of Scandinavian design.The book brings together case studies from the early twentieth century to today. Drawn from fields as diverse as transport, engineering, packaging, photography, law, interiors, and corporate identity, these studies tell new or unfamiliar stories about the production, mediation and consumption of design. An alternative history is created, one much more alive to national and regional differences and to types of product.Scandinavian Design analyses a century of design culture from Denmark, Finland, Norway and Sweden and, in so doing, presents a sophisticated introduction to Scandinavian design.

'There isn't a more comprehensive source to Twenties fashion that I can think of ... An absolute must for anyone interested in Twenties fashion or art deco' Style High Club'A source of all the styles, colours, shapes, and silhouettes of the Golden Twenties' VogueFrom the glitz and glamour of the Roaring Twenties came a fashion revolution. The 1920s is a decade synonymous with social change, reflected in its groundbreaking fashions: from the daring elegance of the 'New Woman' to never-before-seen silhouettes, the styles of the Roaring Twenties still capture the imagination a century later.Sumptuously illustrated with over 500 original photographs, sketches and prints, this extensive sourcebook documents the season-by-season fashions of the Jazz Age. Follow the evolving fashion trends and uncover a fascinating analysis of the progression from haute couture to ready-to-wear in this essential handbook for all fashion historians, students and vintage enthusiasts.Authored and edited by renowned design historian, Charlotte Fiell, this volume also contains an authoritative introduction by fashion historian Emmanuelle Dirix, as well as the biographies of the key designers and fashion houses of the period.

"Fascinating." - The New YorkerWhat can psychoanalysis tell us about the power and allure of fashion? Valerie Steele, author of Dress, Dreams and Desire, was described by critic Suzy Menkes as “the Freud of fashion.” In this pathbreaking book, the first cultural history of fashion and psychoanalysis, Steele does not merely hold a mirror up to fashion’s surface, she looks into its soul.A renowned fashion historian, Steele draws on key psychoanalytic concepts about the body, sexuality, and the unconscious – from the dream theories of Freud and Jung to Lacan’s mirror stage and Anzieu’s skin ego – to interpret the work of designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli, Gianni Versace, and Alexander McQueen. She explores how fashion is the lens through which we see ourselves – and how others see us. Far from being superficial, fashion can be regarded as a “deep surface” that communicates our unconscious desires and anxieties, with none of us fully aware of what we are "saying" with the clothes we wear.

Historisk dräkt – inifrån och ut: 1400-talets andra hälft – Kvinnodräkt, är handboken för dig som vill få ett grepp om periodens kläder, material och snitt i Nordeuropa. I denna utförliga bok presenteras kvinnans kläder från särken närmast kroppen till huvudduk och överkjortel. På ett enkelt och pedagogiskt sätt placerar de erfarna författarna dräkten i ett historiskt perspektiv samtidigt som de går nära inpå dess detaljer. Här avhandlas inte bara skärningar utan även influenser, materialval, tidens färger och accessoarer. Handboken är späckad med moderna illustrationer, målningar från tiden och foton av rekonstruktioner och fynd. Det är kort sagt den oumbärliga hjälpredan för dig som vill skapa din egen 1400-talsgarderob. I serien Historisk dräkt – inifrån och ut finns också broderboken 1400-talets andra hälft – Mansdräkt. I serien kommer även andra tidsperioder att publiceras, se mer på chronocopiapublishing.com.

Sedan Parisutställningen 1925 har omvärlden betraktat Sverige som ett ledande designland. Men det var inte den blonda enkelheten, som de flesta idag förknippar med svensk design, som banade vägen. Tvärtom, publiken i Paris fascinerades av rikt dekorerade föremål utförda i krävande hantverkstekniker. Här fanns Orrefors graverade glas, Nordiska Kompaniets intarsiamöbler, Svenskt Tenns väggspeglar och Näfveqvarns trädgårdsurnor av gjutjärn. Idag kallar vi stilen Swedish Grace. Utställningar är ett flyktigt fenomen. När den sista besökaren gått hem rivs de och kvar finns spridda föremål, fotografier, arkivmaterial och personliga minnen. Cilla Robach har grävt djupt i dessa för att, så långt det är möjligt, ta oss med på en vandring genom Parisutställningens unika miljöer med fokus på de svenska inredningar och föremål som öppnade designdörren mot världen. Cilla Robach är chef för Samlingsenheten vid Nationalmuseum. Hon är docent i konstvetenskap med fokus på 1900- och 2000-talens konsthantverk och design. 2022 ansvarade hon för Nationalmuseums hyllade utställning Swedish Grace. Konst och design i 1920-talets Sverige. Swedish Grace i Paris 1925 är den tredje publikationen i Nationalmuseums bokserie Forskning i fokus.

‘SJ is a genius with her brush and colour. She concocts a world that is as warm as she is.’ – Helena Bonham Carter ‘SJ’s rare gift of seeing deeply, and of translating what is seen into something precious and lasting, is what makes her works so special.’ – Lulu Guinness Seasonal Living is the perfect companion for anyone who delights in the changing seasons – a compendium of beautiful ideas, inspiration and practical ways to enjoy the natural world at home and in the garden.Filled with exquisite illustrations, reflections and seasonal wisdom, this full-colour almanac brings together the creativity and expertise of celebrated interior designers, passionate gardeners, home enthusiasts and food lovers. Contributors include Lulu Guinness, Clodagh McKenna and Butter Wakefield. Inside, you’ll find heart-warming inspiration for every season, including: Spring: discover tablescaping and decorating ideas, flower arranging, migratory birds, preparing the garden, daffodil spotting and napkin folding.Summer: enjoy outdoor entertaining, barbecue inspiration, picnic showstoppers, Mason jar salads, flower crowns, afternoon tea ideas and Laura Jackson’s pickle margherita.Autumn: explore preserving and pickling, hearty soups, seasonal walks, pressing leaves, DIY butter candles, foraging and preparing the home for winter.Winter: delight in festive entertaining, hosting house guests, cocktail making, menu and place-card design, gift-wrapping techniques and cloud spotting.An enchanting addition to any bedside table and a thoughtful gift for anyone who loves nature, creativity and living life beautifully.

Historisk dräkt – inifrån och ut, mannens dräkt under 1400-talets andra hälft, är handboken för dig som vill få ett grepp om periodens kläder, material och snitt i Nordeuropa. I denna utförliga bok presenteras mannens kläder från brokorna närmast kroppen till mantel och hatt. På ett enkelt och pedagogiskt sätt placerar de erfarna författarna dräkten i ett historiskt perspektiv samtidigt som de går nära inpå dess detaljer. Här avhandlas inte bara skärningar utan även influenser, materialval, tidens färger och accessoarer. Handboken är späckad med moderna illustrationer, målningar från tiden och foton av rekonstruktioner och fynd. Det är kort sagt den oumbärliga hjälpredan för dig som vill skapa din egen 1400-talsgarderob. I serien Historisk dräkt – inifrån och ut finns också systerboken Kvinnans dräkt under 1400-talets andra hälft. I serien kommer även andra tidsperioder att publiceras, se mer på www.ChronoCopiaPublishing.com.

Following the success of Jazz Covers, this epic volume of groove assembles over 500 legendary covers from a golden era in Black music. Psychedelia meets Black Power, sexual liberation meets social conscience, and street portraiture meets fantastical comic art in this dazzling anthology of visualized funk and soul. Gathering both classic and rare covers, the collection celebrates each artwork’s ability to capture not only a buyer’s interest, but an entire musical mood. Browse through and discover the brilliant, the bold, the outlandish and the incredibly beautiful designs that fans rushed to get their hands on as the likes of Marvin Gaye, James Brown, Curtis Mayfield, Michael Jackson, and Prince changed the world with their unique and unforgettable sounds. Featuring interviews with key industry figures, Funk & Soul Covers also provides cultural context and design analysis for many of the chosen record covers.

What it means to design at a time when, for many people, the future seems to have become an impossibility.When reality fails us, what can designers do? Question design’s relationship to reality, as Anthony Dunne and Fiona Raby do, in this exhilarating, yet thoughtful, journey to the edges of science, philosophy, and literature to find new ways of thinking about the possible—and about the meaning, function, and place of design in that speculative world of “not here, not now.” A conceptual travelogue of sorts, Not Here, Not Now brings together words, images, and objects that capture, in design form, some of the ideas encountered along the way. Itself a design experiment, the richly illustrated book explores ways to bring these ideas into conversation with objects through imagined archives, libraries, glossaries, taxonomies, lists, tales, and essays.The design responses in Not Here, Not Now—to a stone raft, for example, or a vegetable lamb, swatches of imaginary colors, a pocket universe in the home, objects undergoing space-time collapse—are, like the most compelling utopias, impossible by design, aiming instead to nourish the creative, intellectual, and imaginative ground from which new possibilities, still unknown, might begin to emerge.

Yves Saint Laurent, or YSL, is one of the most famous fashion designers of all time, whose impact on the fashion world is almost unmatched. A revolutionary designer for women, his designs took traditionally male styles and reinvented them for the modern women of the 1960s. From jumpsuits to safari jackets to his iconic tuxedo, YSL's designs revolutionised women's clothes forever. He can be credited with making ready-to-wear clothes reputable and desirable, in a marked move away from haute couture, and for championing trousers for women.Despite a life marred with addiction, war and mental health struggles, Yves remained a powerhouse of the fashion industry for 50 years, and his name – and initials – are now synonymous with quality, innovation and heritage. His collections may have sometimes generated controversy and criticism, but they have proved to be timeless and transformative.The Little Guide to Yves Saint Laurent charts his tumultuous rise to the top, accompanied by facts and quotes from, and about, the man himself and the fashion legacy he built.

A complete and unabridged full-color edition of the classic sourcebook on ornamental designFirst published in 1856, The Grammar of Ornament remains a design classic. Its inspiration came from pioneering British architect and designer Owen Jones (1809–1874), who produced a comprehensive design treatise for the machine age, lavishly illustrated in vivid chromolithographic color. Jones made detailed observations of decorative arts on his travels in Europe, the Middle East, and in his native London, where he studied objects on display at the Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations in 1851 and at local museums. His aim was to improve the quality of Western design by changing the habits of Victorian designers, who indiscriminately mixed elements from a wide variety of sources.Jones's resulting study is a comprehensive analysis of styles of ornamental design, presenting key examples ranging from Maori tattoos, Egyptian columns, and Greek borders to Byzantine mosaic, Indian embroidery, and Elizabethan carvings. At once splendidly Victorian and insistently modern, The Grammar of Ornament celebrates objects of beauty from across time periods and continents, and remains an indispensable sourcebook today.

One of the most prolific and successful artists of the Golden Age of American Illustration, J. C. Leyendecker captivated audiences throughout the first half of the 20th century. Leyendecker is best known for his creation of the archetype of the fashionable American male with his advertisements for Arrow Collar. These images sold to an eager public the idea of a glamorous lifestyle, the bedrock upon which modern advertising was built. He also was the creator instantly recognizable icons, such as the New Year’s baby and Santa Claus, that are to this day an integral part of the lexicon of Americana and was commissioned to paint more Saturday Evening Post covers than any other artist. Leyendecker lived for most of his adult life with Charles Beach, the Arrow Collar Man, on whom the stylish men in his artwork were modeled. The first book about the artist in more than 30 years, J. C. Leyendecker features his masterworks, rare paintings, studies, and other artwork, including the 322 covers he did for the Post. With a revealing text that delves into both his artistic evolution and personal life, J. C. Leyendecker restores this iconic image maker’s rightful position in the pantheon of great American artists.

For over 150 years, Louis Vuitton's monographed bags have been associated with style and luxury. Born in 1821, he had left home at 13 to seek his fortune in Paris where he became an apprentice box-maker which eventually led him to introductions at the French Royal Court. With royal endorsement, Louis opened of his first workshop in 1854 where his skills and innovations established his brand as one of Europe's most popular.Passing his passion for crafting beautiful luggage onto his son, Georges, and later his grandson Gaston-Louis, they ensured the company continued to grow, surviving two world wars, to become the luxury brand it's renowned for.Louis Vuitton stores opened in cities throughout the world and expanded into other high-end brands. The merger in 1987 with Möet Hennessy created the megabrand LVMH, and in 1997 the appointment of Marc Jacobs launched Louis Vuitton into the world of fashion."The Louis Vuitton woman is more about a quality - a quality within some women that needs to come forward, to be noticed and recognised." Marc Jacobs"There's a lot of baggage that comes along with our family, but it's like Louis Vuitton baggage." Kim Kardashian"Luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury." Louis Vuitton

The time span covered by The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress starts in the nineteenth century, with the aftermath of the consumers’ revolution, and reaches all the way to the present. The fashion and garment industries have been international from the beginning and, as such, this volume looks at the history of fashion and dress through the lenses of both international and global history. Because fashion is also a multifaceted subject with humanagency at its core, at the confluence of thematerial (fabrics, clothing, dyes, tools, and machines) and the immaterial (savoir-faire, identities, images, and brands), this volume adopts a transdisciplinary perspective, opening its pages to researchers from a variety of complementary fields.The chapters in this volume are organized based on their relationship to five fields of study: economics and commerce, politics, business, identities, and historical sources.Paying particular attention to change, the book goes beyond the great fashion capitals and well-known fashion centers and points to the broader geographies of fashion. Particular geographical areas focus on the emergence of new fashion systems and business models, whether they be in Sweden, Bangladesh, or Spain, or on the African continent, considered to be the “new frontier” of the industry.Covering myriad aspects of the subject this is the perfect companion for all those interested in history of dress and fashion in the modern world.

'He makes us see a subject we thought we knew so well from a completely different angle; in writing that is deeply researched, but inviting, warm, and full of personality' Katy Hessel'Charlie Porter is a magician' Olivia Laing Why do we wear what we wear? To answer this question, we must go back and unlock the wardrobes of the early twentieth century, when fashion as we know it was born.In Bring No Clothes, acclaimed fashion writer Charlie Porter brings us face to face with six members of the Bloomsbury Group-the collective of creatives and thinkers who were in the vanguard of a social and sartorial revolution. Each of them offers fresh insight into the constraints and possibilities of fashion today: from the stifling repression of E. M. Forster's top buttons to the creativity of Vanessa Bell's wayward hems; from the sheer pleasure of Ottoline Morrell's lavish dresses to the clashing self-consciousness of Virginia Woolf's orange stockings; from Duncan Grant's liberated play with nudity to John Maynard Keynes's power play in the traditional suit. As Porter carefully unpicks what they wore and how they wore it, we see how clothing can be a means of artistic, intellectual and sexual liberation, or, conversely, a tool for patriarchal control.As he travels through libraries, archives, attics and studios, Porter uncovers new evidence about his subjects, revealing them in a thrillingly intimate, vivid new light. And, as he begins making his own clothing, his own perspective on fashion-and on life-starts to change. In the end, he shows, we should all 'bring no clothes', embracing not just a new way with fashion but a new philosophy of living-one which activates the connections between the way we dress and the way we think, act and love. Now with a new Afterword by the author

With over 500 images of daywear, outerwear, evening wear and accessories, 1940s Fashion: The Definitive Sourcebook is a sweeping visual history of the golden age of fashion.Was there ever a decade of more contrasts than the 1940s? The Second World War saw the rise of thrifty fashions, make-do-and-mend, practical styles and workwear - and by the end of decade high glamour, Dior's New Look and luxurious cuts and fabrics had taken hold. In this encyclopaedic, beautiful book, fashion and design historians Emmanuelle Dirix and Charlotte Fiell explain how the upheaval of the decade rewrote fashion history.Covering every aspect of female fashions from the decade - from lace evening gowns, tailored jackets and furs to figure-sculpting undergarments, satin negligées and scandalous bikinis, as well as military uniform - hundreds of images show this age of wartime austerity and post-war glamour in all its detail.Contents include: Utility fashion, Veronica Lake, Joan Bennett, Dior, Lucien Lelong, Balmain, Barbara Stanwyck, Jean Patou, Elsa Schiaparelli, Jaeger, uniform and workwear (Land Girls, welders, Women's Army Corps, Junior Air Corps, factory workers), lipstick, jewellery, stockings, Molyneux, Hattie Carnegie, Adrian, suiting, Norman Hartnell and more.

From avant-garde accessories to directional red-carpet glamour, Loewe is the fashion house of the moment.Modern twists bring an unbridled joy to its cult items, from surreal balloon heels to the coveted Puzzle bag, with every design underpinned by craftsmanship. Loewe's fashion-forward looks are worn by everyone from Anna Wintour to Zendaya while visionary creative director Jonathan Anderson continues the heritage house's legacy of reinvention. With over 100 stunning photographs accompanied by engaging text, Little Book of Loewe uncovers the story of an iconic brand that continues to redefine the fashion landscape.

Recension På Svaneholms slott i Skåne finns en samling kläder från slutet av 1700-talet fram till 1960-talet. En del av dessa finns utställda på slottet. Som ett led i bevarandet av samlingen för eftervärlden har Emma Severinsson skrivit boken Skräddat för herrskap, med bilder av Helene Toresdotter. Projektet har genomförts med bidrag från Riksantikvarieämbetet. Modet har alltid varit en markör för tiden det skapas i, och via kreationerna i boken får läsaren en bild av hur slottets herrskap levt under årtiondena och hur de påverkats av sin omvärld. Det här är en lättillgänglig och vacker bok med ett stort innehåll. Boken lär tilltala både historieälskaren och den modeintresserade. Den senare lär särskilt uppskatta närbilderna på plaggen, där man kan studera konstruktioner och broderier. BTJ-häftet nr 11 2022, Lektör Stina Lodén