Brent Luvaas is Associate Professor of Anthropology at Drexel University, USA. He is the author of DIY Style (Berg, 2012) and the blogger behind www.urbanfieldnotes.com, a street style blog documenting fashion on the streets of Philadelphia. Joanne B. Eicher was Regents Professor Emerita at the University of Minnesota. Joanne was Editor-in-Chief, Encyclopedia of Dress and Fashion (Bloomsbury and OUP); Series Editor, Dress, Body, Culture (Bloomsbury) and Dress and Fashion Research (Bloomsbury); Editor, Global Trade and Cultural Authentication: The Kalabari of the Niger Delta; and Co-Author, The Visible Self (Fairchild); Dress and Gender (Berg); Dress and Ethnicity (Berg); Beads and Beadmakers (Berg); Mother, Daughter, Sister, Bride (National Geographic); and a wide variety of published articles in professional journals and chapters in books.

A major and seminal contribution to highlighting the research of fashion and dress anthropology that is not regarded as a formal subject of its own.

• AcknowledgmentsIntroductionBrent Luvaas and Joanne B. EicherPart 1: Classic Works in the Anthropology of Dress and FashionPreface1. The Principle of Order in Civilization as Exemplified by Changes in FashionA.L. Kroeber2. Customs and Beliefs: CeremonialAlfred R. Radcliffe-Brown3. DressRuth Benedict4. FashionEdward Sapir5. Dress: Its Origins, Forms, and Psychology, with Special Emphasis on the Sexual PsychologyA.E. CrawleyPart 2: Theorizing Dress and Fashion Preface1. Fashion -v- Anti-FashionTed Polhemus2. The Social SkinTerence S. Turner3. Clothing as Language: An Object Lesson in the Study of the Expressive Properties of Material CultureGrant McCracken4. Definition and Classification of Dress: Implications for Analysis of Gender RolesJoanne B. Eicher & Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins5. The Antisocial Skin: Structure, Resistance, and "Modern Primitive" Adornment in theUnited StatesDaniel Rosenblatt6. Style and OntologyDaniel MillerPart 3: Material CulturePreface1. The Other Half: The Material Culture of New FibresKaori O’Connor2. Cloth and ClothingJane Schneider3. Jeanealogies: Materiality and the (Im)permanence of Relationships and IntimacySophie Woodward4. Wild Silk Textiles of the Dogon of Mali: The Production, Material Efficacy, and Cultural Significance of SheenLaurence Douny5. Clothing sociality: Materiality and the everyday among the Kuna of PanamaMargherita Margiotti Part 4: Dressing the Body in CulturePreface1. Kalabari Cut-Thread and Pulled-Thread ClothTonye Victor Erekosima and Joanne B. Eicher 2. Cloth that Does Not Die: The Meaning of Cloth in Bùnú Social LifeElisha Renne3. The Political Economy of Elegance: An African Cult of BeautyJonathan Friedman4. The Predicament of Dress: Polyvalency and the Ironies of Cultural IdentityDeborah Durham5. Body Talk: Revelations of Self and Body in Contemporary Strip ClubsKatherine FrankPart 5: Dressing the Colony, Fashioning the NationPreface1. Dressing for Dinner in the Bush: Rituals of Self-Definition and British Imperial AuthorityHelen Callaway2. Fashioning the Colonial SubjectJean Comaroff and John Comaroff 3. The Ao Dai Goes Global: How International Influences and Female Entrepreneurs Have Shaped Vietnam's "National Costume"Ann Marie Leshkowich4. Dress for Sukses:Fashioning Femininity and Nationality in Urban IndonesiaCarla Jones5. “Doing” Danish Fashion: On National Identity and Design Practices of a Small Danish Fashion CompanyMarie Riegels MelchiorPart 6: Clothing, Class, and Competing CosmopolitanismsPreface1. Fashion, Anti-Fashion, and Heteroglossia in Urban SenegalDeborah Heath2. Dressed to "Shine": Work, Leisure and Style in Malinda, KenyaJohanna Schoss3. Fashionable Muslims: Notions of Self, Religion, and Society in San'aAnnelies Moors4. Landscapes of Attraction and Rejection: South Asian Aesthetics in Islamic Fashions inLondonEmma Tarlo5. Forging Connections, Performing Distinctions: Youth, Dress and Consumption in Niger Adeline Masquelier6. Fashionably Modest of Modestly Unfashionable?Eric SilvermanPart 7: Making Global FashionPreface1. The Globalization of Asian Dress: Re-Orienting Fashion or Re-Orientalizing Asia?Carla Jones and Anne Marie Leshkowich2. Haute Couture in Tehran: Two Faces of an Emerging Fashion SceneAlexandru Balasescu3. Recasting Fashion Image Production: An Ethnographic and Practice-Based Approach to Investigating Bodies in MediaStephanie Sadre-Orafai4. Ethnographic Entanglements: Memory and Narrative in the Global Fashion IndustryChristina H. Moon5. Making Clothes for International Markets: A Clothing Perspective on GlobalizationJianhua Zhao6. In Patagonia (Clothing): A Complicated GreennessSharon J. HepburnPart 8: The Afterlives of Dress and FashionPreface1. Other People's Clothes? The International Second-hand Clothing Trade and Dress Practices in ZambiaKaren Tranberg Hansen2. Making New Vintage Jeans in Japan: Relocating AuthenticityPhilomena Keet3. Fake BrandsMagdalena Craciun4. On Cutting and Pasting: The Art and Politics of DIY StreetwearBrent LuvaasBibliographyIndex

Brent Luvaas is Associate Professor of Anthropology at Drexel University, USA. He is the author of DIY Style (Berg, 2012) and the blogger behind www.urbanfieldnotes.com, a street style blog documenting fashion on the streets of Philadelphia. Joanne B. Eicher was Regents Professor Emerita at the University of Minnesota. Joanne was Editor-in-Chief, Encyclopedia of Dress and Fashion (Bloomsbury and OUP); Series Editor, Dress, Body, Culture (Bloomsbury) and Dress and Fashion Research (Bloomsbury); Editor, Global Trade and Cultural Authentication: The Kalabari of the Niger Delta; and Co-Author, The Visible Self (Fairchild); Dress and Gender (Berg); Dress and Ethnicity (Berg); Beads and Beadmakers (Berg); Mother, Daughter, Sister, Bride (National Geographic); and a wide variety of published articles in professional journals and chapters in books.

A major and seminal contribution to highlighting the research of fashion and dress anthropology that is not regarded as a formal subject of its own.

• AcknowledgmentsIntroductionBrent Luvaas and Joanne B. EicherPart 1: Classic Works in the Anthropology of Dress and FashionPreface1. The Principle of Order in Civilization as Exemplified by Changes in FashionA.L. Kroeber2. Customs and Beliefs: CeremonialAlfred R. Radcliffe-Brown3. DressRuth Benedict4. FashionEdward Sapir5. Dress: Its Origins, Forms, and Psychology, with Special Emphasis on the Sexual PsychologyA.E. CrawleyPart 2: Theorizing Dress and Fashion Preface1. Fashion -v- Anti-FashionTed Polhemus2. The Social SkinTerence S. Turner3. Clothing as Language: An Object Lesson in the Study of the Expressive Properties of Material CultureGrant McCracken4. Definition and Classification of Dress: Implications for Analysis of Gender RolesJoanne B. Eicher & Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins5. The Antisocial Skin: Structure, Resistance, and "Modern Primitive" Adornment in theUnited StatesDaniel Rosenblatt6. Style and OntologyDaniel MillerPart 3: Material CulturePreface1. The Other Half: The Material Culture of New FibresKaori O’Connor2. Cloth and ClothingJane Schneider3. Jeanealogies: Materiality and the (Im)permanence of Relationships and IntimacySophie Woodward4. Wild Silk Textiles of the Dogon of Mali: The Production, Material Efficacy, and Cultural Significance of SheenLaurence Douny5. Clothing sociality: Materiality and the everyday among the Kuna of PanamaMargherita Margiotti Part 4: Dressing the Body in CulturePreface1. Kalabari Cut-Thread and Pulled-Thread ClothTonye Victor Erekosima and Joanne B. Eicher 2. Cloth that Does Not Die: The Meaning of Cloth in Bùnú Social LifeElisha Renne3. The Political Economy of Elegance: An African Cult of BeautyJonathan Friedman4. The Predicament of Dress: Polyvalency and the Ironies of Cultural IdentityDeborah Durham5. Body Talk: Revelations of Self and Body in Contemporary Strip ClubsKatherine FrankPart 5: Dressing the Colony, Fashioning the NationPreface1. Dressing for Dinner in the Bush: Rituals of Self-Definition and British Imperial AuthorityHelen Callaway2. Fashioning the Colonial SubjectJean Comaroff and John Comaroff 3. The Ao Dai Goes Global: How International Influences and Female Entrepreneurs Have Shaped Vietnam's "National Costume"Ann Marie Leshkowich4. Dress for Sukses:Fashioning Femininity and Nationality in Urban IndonesiaCarla Jones5. “Doing” Danish Fashion: On National Identity and Design Practices of a Small Danish Fashion CompanyMarie Riegels MelchiorPart 6: Clothing, Class, and Competing CosmopolitanismsPreface1. Fashion, Anti-Fashion, and Heteroglossia in Urban SenegalDeborah Heath2. Dressed to "Shine": Work, Leisure and Style in Malinda, KenyaJohanna Schoss3. Fashionable Muslims: Notions of Self, Religion, and Society in San'aAnnelies Moors4. Landscapes of Attraction and Rejection: South Asian Aesthetics in Islamic Fashions inLondonEmma Tarlo5. Forging Connections, Performing Distinctions: Youth, Dress and Consumption in Niger Adeline Masquelier6. Fashionably Modest of Modestly Unfashionable?Eric SilvermanPart 7: Making Global FashionPreface1. The Globalization of Asian Dress: Re-Orienting Fashion or Re-Orientalizing Asia?Carla Jones and Anne Marie Leshkowich2. Haute Couture in Tehran: Two Faces of an Emerging Fashion SceneAlexandru Balasescu3. Recasting Fashion Image Production: An Ethnographic and Practice-Based Approach to Investigating Bodies in MediaStephanie Sadre-Orafai4. Ethnographic Entanglements: Memory and Narrative in the Global Fashion IndustryChristina H. Moon5. Making Clothes for International Markets: A Clothing Perspective on GlobalizationJianhua Zhao6. In Patagonia (Clothing): A Complicated GreennessSharon J. HepburnPart 8: The Afterlives of Dress and FashionPreface1. Other People's Clothes? The International Second-hand Clothing Trade and Dress Practices in ZambiaKaren Tranberg Hansen2. Making New Vintage Jeans in Japan: Relocating AuthenticityPhilomena Keet3. Fake BrandsMagdalena Craciun4. On Cutting and Pasting: The Art and Politics of DIY StreetwearBrent LuvaasBibliographyIndex

Brent Luvaas is Associate Professor of Anthropology at Drexel University, USA. He is the author of DIY Style (Berg, 2012) and the blogger behind www.urbanfieldnotes.com, a street style blog documenting fashion on the streets of Philadelphia. Joanne B. Eicher was Regents Professor Emerita at the University of Minnesota. Joanne was Editor-in-Chief, Encyclopedia of Dress and Fashion (Bloomsbury and OUP); Series Editor, Dress, Body, Culture (Bloomsbury) and Dress and Fashion Research (Bloomsbury); Editor, Global Trade and Cultural Authentication: The Kalabari of the Niger Delta; and Co-Author, The Visible Self (Fairchild); Dress and Gender (Berg); Dress and Ethnicity (Berg); Beads and Beadmakers (Berg); Mother, Daughter, Sister, Bride (National Geographic); and a wide variety of published articles in professional journals and chapters in books.

A major and seminal contribution to highlighting the research of fashion and dress anthropology that is not regarded as a formal subject of its own.

• AcknowledgmentsIntroductionBrent Luvaas and Joanne B. EicherPart 1: Classic Works in the Anthropology of Dress and FashionPreface1. The Principle of Order in Civilization as Exemplified by Changes in FashionA.L. Kroeber2. Customs and Beliefs: CeremonialAlfred R. Radcliffe-Brown3. DressRuth Benedict4. FashionEdward Sapir5. Dress: Its Origins, Forms, and Psychology, with Special Emphasis on the Sexual PsychologyA.E. CrawleyPart 2: Theorizing Dress and Fashion Preface1. Fashion -v- Anti-FashionTed Polhemus2. The Social SkinTerence S. Turner3. Clothing as Language: An Object Lesson in the Study of the Expressive Properties of Material CultureGrant McCracken4. Definition and Classification of Dress: Implications for Analysis of Gender RolesJoanne B. Eicher & Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins5. The Antisocial Skin: Structure, Resistance, and "Modern Primitive" Adornment in theUnited StatesDaniel Rosenblatt6. Style and OntologyDaniel MillerPart 3: Material CulturePreface1. The Other Half: The Material Culture of New FibresKaori O’Connor2. Cloth and ClothingJane Schneider3. Jeanealogies: Materiality and the (Im)permanence of Relationships and IntimacySophie Woodward4. Wild Silk Textiles of the Dogon of Mali: The Production, Material Efficacy, and Cultural Significance of SheenLaurence Douny5. Clothing sociality: Materiality and the everyday among the Kuna of PanamaMargherita Margiotti Part 4: Dressing the Body in CulturePreface1. Kalabari Cut-Thread and Pulled-Thread ClothTonye Victor Erekosima and Joanne B. Eicher 2. Cloth that Does Not Die: The Meaning of Cloth in Bùnú Social LifeElisha Renne3. The Political Economy of Elegance: An African Cult of BeautyJonathan Friedman4. The Predicament of Dress: Polyvalency and the Ironies of Cultural IdentityDeborah Durham5. Body Talk: Revelations of Self and Body in Contemporary Strip ClubsKatherine FrankPart 5: Dressing the Colony, Fashioning the NationPreface1. Dressing for Dinner in the Bush: Rituals of Self-Definition and British Imperial AuthorityHelen Callaway2. Fashioning the Colonial SubjectJean Comaroff and John Comaroff 3. The Ao Dai Goes Global: How International Influences and Female Entrepreneurs Have Shaped Vietnam's "National Costume"Ann Marie Leshkowich4. Dress for Sukses:Fashioning Femininity and Nationality in Urban IndonesiaCarla Jones5. “Doing” Danish Fashion: On National Identity and Design Practices of a Small Danish Fashion CompanyMarie Riegels MelchiorPart 6: Clothing, Class, and Competing CosmopolitanismsPreface1. Fashion, Anti-Fashion, and Heteroglossia in Urban SenegalDeborah Heath2. Dressed to "Shine": Work, Leisure and Style in Malinda, KenyaJohanna Schoss3. Fashionable Muslims: Notions of Self, Religion, and Society in San'aAnnelies Moors4. Landscapes of Attraction and Rejection: South Asian Aesthetics in Islamic Fashions inLondonEmma Tarlo5. Forging Connections, Performing Distinctions: Youth, Dress and Consumption in Niger Adeline Masquelier6. Fashionably Modest of Modestly Unfashionable?Eric SilvermanPart 7: Making Global FashionPreface1. The Globalization of Asian Dress: Re-Orienting Fashion or Re-Orientalizing Asia?Carla Jones and Anne Marie Leshkowich2. Haute Couture in Tehran: Two Faces of an Emerging Fashion SceneAlexandru Balasescu3. Recasting Fashion Image Production: An Ethnographic and Practice-Based Approach to Investigating Bodies in MediaStephanie Sadre-Orafai4. Ethnographic Entanglements: Memory and Narrative in the Global Fashion IndustryChristina H. Moon5. Making Clothes for International Markets: A Clothing Perspective on GlobalizationJianhua Zhao6. In Patagonia (Clothing): A Complicated GreennessSharon J. HepburnPart 8: The Afterlives of Dress and FashionPreface1. Other People's Clothes? The International Second-hand Clothing Trade and Dress Practices in ZambiaKaren Tranberg Hansen2. Making New Vintage Jeans in Japan: Relocating AuthenticityPhilomena Keet3. Fake BrandsMagdalena Craciun4. On Cutting and Pasting: The Art and Politics of DIY StreetwearBrent LuvaasBibliographyIndex