Anthropology of Dress and Fashion

Brent Luvaas is Associate Professor of Anthropology at Drexel University, USA. He is the author of DIY Style (Berg, 2012) and the blogger behind www.urbanfieldnotes.com, a street style blog documenting fashion on the streets of Philadelphia. Joanne B. Eicher was Regents Professor Emerita at the University of Minnesota. Joanne was Editor-in-Chief, Encyclopedia of Dress and Fashion (Bloomsbury and OUP); Series Editor, Dress, Body, Culture (Bloomsbury) and Dress and Fashion Research (Bloomsbury); Editor, Global Trade and Cultural Authentication: The Kalabari of the Niger Delta; and Co-Author, The Visible Self (Fairchild); Dress and Gender (Berg); Dress and Ethnicity (Berg); Beads and Beadmakers (Berg); Mother, Daughter, Sister, Bride (National Geographic); and a wide variety of published articles in professional journals and chapters in books.

A major and seminal contribution to highlighting the research of fashion and dress anthropology that is not regarded as a formal subject of its own.

• AcknowledgmentsIntroductionBrent Luvaas and Joanne B. EicherPart 1: Classic Works in the Anthropology of Dress and FashionPreface1. The Principle of Order in Civilization as Exemplified by Changes in FashionA.L. Kroeber2. Customs and Beliefs: CeremonialAlfred R. Radcliffe-Brown3. DressRuth Benedict4. FashionEdward Sapir5. Dress: Its Origins, Forms, and Psychology, with Special Emphasis on the Sexual PsychologyA.E. CrawleyPart 2: Theorizing Dress and Fashion Preface1. Fashion -v- Anti-FashionTed Polhemus2. The Social SkinTerence S. Turner3. Clothing as Language: An Object Lesson in the Study of the Expressive Properties of Material CultureGrant McCracken4. Definition and Classification of Dress: Implications for Analysis of Gender RolesJoanne B. Eicher & Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins5. The Antisocial Skin: Structure, Resistance, and "Modern Primitive" Adornment in theUnited StatesDaniel Rosenblatt6. Style and OntologyDaniel MillerPart 3: Material CulturePreface1. The Other Half: The Material Culture of New FibresKaori O’Connor2. Cloth and ClothingJane Schneider3. Jeanealogies: Materiality and the (Im)permanence of Relationships and IntimacySophie Woodward4. Wild Silk Textiles of the Dogon of Mali: The Production, Material Efficacy, and Cultural Significance of SheenLaurence Douny5. Clothing sociality: Materiality and the everyday among the Kuna of PanamaMargherita Margiotti Part 4: Dressing the Body in CulturePreface1. Kalabari Cut-Thread and Pulled-Thread ClothTonye Victor Erekosima and Joanne B. Eicher 2. Cloth that Does Not Die: The Meaning of Cloth in Bùnú Social LifeElisha Renne3. The Political Economy of Elegance: An African Cult of BeautyJonathan Friedman4. The Predicament of Dress: Polyvalency and the Ironies of Cultural IdentityDeborah Durham5. Body Talk: Revelations of Self and Body in Contemporary Strip ClubsKatherine FrankPart 5: Dressing the Colony, Fashioning the NationPreface1. Dressing for Dinner in the Bush: Rituals of Self-Definition and British Imperial AuthorityHelen Callaway2. Fashioning the Colonial SubjectJean Comaroff and John Comaroff 3. The Ao Dai Goes Global: How International Influences and Female Entrepreneurs Have Shaped Vietnam's "National Costume"Ann Marie Leshkowich4. Dress for Sukses:Fashioning Femininity and Nationality in Urban IndonesiaCarla Jones5. “Doing” Danish Fashion: On National Identity and Design Practices of a Small Danish Fashion CompanyMarie Riegels MelchiorPart 6: Clothing, Class, and Competing CosmopolitanismsPreface1. Fashion, Anti-Fashion, and Heteroglossia in Urban SenegalDeborah Heath2. Dressed to "Shine": Work, Leisure and Style in Malinda, KenyaJohanna Schoss3. Fashionable Muslims: Notions of Self, Religion, and Society in San'aAnnelies Moors4. Landscapes of Attraction and Rejection: South Asian Aesthetics in Islamic Fashions inLondonEmma Tarlo5. Forging Connections, Performing Distinctions: Youth, Dress and Consumption in Niger Adeline Masquelier6. Fashionably Modest of Modestly Unfashionable?Eric SilvermanPart 7: Making Global FashionPreface1. The Globalization of Asian Dress: Re-Orienting Fashion or Re-Orientalizing Asia?Carla Jones and Anne Marie Leshkowich2. Haute Couture in Tehran: Two Faces of an Emerging Fashion SceneAlexandru Balasescu3. Recasting Fashion Image Production: An Ethnographic and Practice-Based Approach to Investigating Bodies in MediaStephanie Sadre-Orafai4. Ethnographic Entanglements: Memory and Narrative in the Global Fashion IndustryChristina H. Moon5. Making Clothes for International Markets: A Clothing Perspective on GlobalizationJianhua Zhao6. In Patagonia (Clothing): A Complicated GreennessSharon J. HepburnPart 8: The Afterlives of Dress and FashionPreface1. Other People's Clothes? The International Second-hand Clothing Trade and Dress Practices in ZambiaKaren Tranberg Hansen2. Making New Vintage Jeans in Japan: Relocating AuthenticityPhilomena Keet3. Fake BrandsMagdalena Craciun4. On Cutting and Pasting: The Art and Politics of DIY StreetwearBrent LuvaasBibliographyIndex